It looks like the opening scene from Saving Private Ryan. Whaling is practiced on a subsistence rather than on a commercial basis here in the Faroe Islands. It's mostly pilot whales and occasionally dolphins that are hunted. Pilot whales aren't listed as endangered and it's believed that more than 100,000 pilot whales are in the waters around the Faroes at any time. It's one of the world's more sobering but interesting sights.
Before witnessing this time-honoured practice I'd do a few things that are much more serene. First I got my morning relaxation by going with Eydna and her friend to the swimming pool, and then I did an excursion to Viðareiði. Located on the island of Viðoy, it is the northernmost settlement in the Faroes.
Around every corner in the Faroes is another fantastic photo op.
Getting both to and from Viðareiði would involve some waiting as there isn't much traffic on the roads. Mariann warned me, so I was prepared.
I was here at the right time in Hvannasund to witness this unusual tradition. Whaling in the Faroe Islands dates back to the 9th century. These days the practice is regulated and monitored by the Faroese authorities and whale hunters must be trained. Whaling only happens once or twice a year and there are no fixed dates or seasons, but it's more likely to occur in spring or summer. The whales are surrounded with a series of boats, which allow many of them to gather in a circular formation.
Whales cannot be killed at sea but instead can only be killed when they're beached or stuck on the sea bed. Spears and harpoons are outlawed, and once whales are caught they're killed with a special whaling knife called a mønustingari. A single deep cut to the spinal cord usually ensures a quick death. Once the whales are confirmed dead, they are cut open with a knife called a grindaknívur, allowing as much blood as possible to run out to preserve the meat. This scene is where Saving Private Ryan comes to mind.
It's the first story I've written where I can say viewer discretion is advised. A list of names is collected with a request for a certain amount of whale meat to be delivered, and locals will deliver whale meat to the elderly or to those who don't have much money for food. Most definitely it's a communal event. One whale hunter, with blood on his hands, hit me on the elbow and told me to go away. He thought I was with Sea Shepherd or Greenpeace but I satisfied his curiosity when I told him that I was a traveller here at the right time. Several people would tell me that PETA, Sea Shepherd, and other animal rights groups have travelled to the Faroes specifically to target the practice of whaling. Clearly they don't kill more whales than necessary, and I watched as when a whale was injured that they'd put it out of its misery. I told that whale hunter that if anyone picks on them, I'll pick on them as I've experienced nothing but love and warmth here in the Faroes and I have nothing but positive things to say and write about this place. I was told that if I here long enough they'd offer me some whale meat but I'm only here for one more day and have no way to freeze or store it. I appreciated the offer though. Whaling in the Faroe Islands is one of those things I'm not traumatized by but content with only seeing once. Filled with fodder for this story I went from red blood back to the green landscape and blue sea and sky typical of the Faroe Islands.
Earlier I was planning on going to Torshavan again but it's nearly an hour away from Klaksvik and I would have had to hitchhike all the way back. I wouldn't be having whale meat for dinner but I'd be having pizza. After seeing so much blood today, it was time for a Faroese night at the pub. Like in many remote locales, the Faroese drink with reckless abandon. Föroya Bjór is the national beer. After having one of those I'd be shouted a few wines and then I don't know how the hell I got all the way back to the boathouse.
Whaling in the Faroes is part of their culture the same way people eat kangaroo in Australia, bison in the US, and kudu meat in Namibia. It's not a sight for the faint of heart and not something I would do myself but please, don't pick on the Faroe Islanders about whaling. It's an ancient tradition and, I guarantee you, the Faroese are some of the loveliest people you'll ever meet!
