Many Adventures of a Nomadic Poet

Harbin Ice & Snow Festival

kiwiaoraki — Sat, 15 Feb 2025 16:45:00 GMT

The People’s Republic of China (PRC) and I have always had a complicated relationship. She’s like that lady who likes to make her own rules and make everything difficult for some unknown reason, yet you still feel that you should give her a chance. After my debacle in ’15 upon returning from North Korea I return to the PRC armed with more research, wisdom, and fewer visa restrictions. It doesn’t mean that a trip here still isn’t a heartache. It was 35°C in Melbourne the other day, and temperatures in Harbin are going to be as low as -25° at night, meaning I’ll be subject to a 60° temperature differential during a period of less than a week.

I said back in ‘15 that if there isn’t a rule in China, they make one, and if there isn’t a problem, they create one. You’ll find yourself being asked for your passport nearly everywhere, from booking train tickets to visiting attractions like the Forbidden City. Changing money is still a complicated headache: you need your passport, must fill out about three pages of paperwork and then must wait about 30 minutes. Oddly, I couldn’t change euros since I had my US passport but thankfully, I had some American money with me. Thankfully it’s much easier these days to pay for stuff using a foreign credit card if you enter the details on WeChat before arriving. Access to Facebook, WhatsApp, Instagram, Google, and many other popular apps isn’t possible unless you’ve installed a VPN before arriving in China. The visa waiver has now been extended to 240 hours (10 days) for many nationalities but I still had to show my fight out of China (in this case, I’m going to Korea for a few days) within the 10-day period, and whilst, unlike before, you can now travel between the permitted regions, you still can’t go absolutely everywhere in China on the visa waiver. Visiting places like Tibet, Qinghai, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia still require a regular Chinese visa, which is expensive and bureaucratic.

A couple of days ago I landed in Beijing and stayed for the day, and then it was an 18-hour train trip to Harbin, the capital of Heilongjiang; the latter means “black dragon river.” Due to its proximity to Siberia, Harbin experiences bitterly cold winters, making it the perfect environment for the Harbin Ice and Snow Festival. Very, very few Chinese speak any English at all, and it was rather difficult not being able to talk to anyone on the 18-hour train journey. I love sleeping on a train, as it’s comforting when the train rocks back and forth as if you’re in a cradle. It was worth it to upgrade to a hard sleeper even if I got very little sleep, and I got a few stares since I was wearing shorts as the train pulled into Harbin. My CouchSurfing host in Harbin is a young man from Kenya, also named Christopher. He studies IT at one of the local universities. What I needed was a few glasses of soju and then a good sleep, and that’s exactly what I did. I woke up this morning refreshed, and I dressed up warm, putting on my thermals but putting my beanie, gloves, and extra socks in my backpack for later. It was cold but not bitterly cold this morning, so I walked instead of getting a taxi into central Harbin.

Harbin is a fascinating city. There’s a colourful old town and orthodox church, and a bit of Jewish history. More than 20,000 Jews lived in Harbin at one time. These girls are dressed in these colourful Russian orthodox dresses.

There’s a saying that the Chinese eat everything on four legs except the table, everything in the sea except the ship, and everything that flies except the airplane. It’s also true that they seem to eat everything on six legs, eight legs, and beyond. Ordering food (and going somewhere that serves something catered to a Westerner) is rather complicated, as it’s possible you may end up ordering something absurd like pork intestines, duck tongue, chicken feet, or beef liver. The Chinese may even eat whatever stands on two legs! For lunch I’d tuck into a beef hot pot.

This is tasty and warming on a blustery day. Zhao Lin Park and its ice carvings would call my name next. Wow! I’ve never been anywhere like this.

I called my mother and showed her the various sculptures carved in the shapes of motorcycles, insects, fish, faces, etc. and then showed her some Chinese families having a good time in the snow. A bit about each artist was on display along with the name of each sculpture. It’s easy to imagine a bucket of water or even a small pond being frozen in winter, but not the Songhua River, which is about 3 km wide. It’s frozen solid!

The ice used to carve everything in winter comes sawn in blocks cut from the Songhua River. As a prelude to what the Ice and Snow World will be like, the ice is illuminated at night. Last year in Melbourne I was given an Essendon Bombers scarf, and it will be very useful here. To all of my friends in Melbourne, I hope I’m supporting the right footy (Australian Rules Football) team.

Harbin is so colourful at night. The Chinese are experts when it comes to colour.

What a full on first day I had in Harbin. When I arrived home, I asked Chris if he could help me register with the police. When I was in China ten years ago, I was unaware that you’re supposed to register with the police within 24 hours of your arrival. If you stay at a hotel or hostel, it is automatically done for you but if you’re staying with friends, relatives, etc. you must go to a police office yourself to register. Since I’m in China for a longer period this time I’m taking the better safe than sorry approach. With six full days in Harbin, I have a lot to do but I must remember to bundle up…it’s gonna be cold tomorrow. Brrr!

Photos: Harbin

kiwiaoraki — Sat, 15 Feb 2025 14:54:00 GMT

It was -20 but I got outside and explored

A King Island Christmas

kiwiaoraki — Wed, 25 Dec 2024 23:42:00 GMT

King Island is no ordinary place. Like a scene out of ET, getting here on a 4-seater plane is like flying on a bicycle through the air. There is no ferry, so flying is the only option unless you have your own boat. After all the years I've been in Australia I'd never been to the islands of the Bass Strait, so a flight to King Island was my Christmas gift to myself. I haven't been disappointed. One of my favourite UFO stories is about Frederick Valentich: a young pilot who disappeared in his plane en route to King Island in 1978 after believing he encountered a UFO. No trace of him or his plane has ever been found. Numerous theories have been proposed about his disappearance but the most common is that he was flying upside down and saw his own lights reflecting on the water before crashing.

King Island has no active CouchSurfing hosts and no official campgrounds but it's possible to freedom camp. However, I would have been at risk of absolutely nothing being open on Christmas and then not being able to eat. Like what I did when I went to Christmas Island, I put a post on Facebook, and two different people offered to host me. Stuart picked me up at the airport and had asked me to pick up a couple of hamburgers from McDonald's since the golden arches don't exist on King Island. Kelly and Phil would offer to host me at their dairy farm, and Stuart said I'd be more comfortable there even though it's further away from Currie, the main settlement. Dairy is the main industry on the island, and King Island cheese is famous. Fishing and kelp are the other two major industries; Stuart would take me to where they dry the kelp after picking me up from the airport.

As with many remote islands, there's the obligatory lighthouse.

There are plenty of Norfolk pines and the island is named after Phillip Gidley King, so there is a Norfolk Island connection. For four nights I'm on this wonderful island. Christmas Day would call for a full schedule today. Kelly and Phil are very active in their church, and they'd be singing at service today. It's the first time I've been to a church service of any sort in at least the past few years. With everything closed today, we'd pick up Phil's mother and then gather at their home for a Christmas lunch. Kelly got me as a Christmas gift a 2025 King Island calendar and a cattle tag key chain. The weather was absolutely brilliant today. Stuart would join us for lunch and then we'd go for a drive to Naracoopa on the east coast.

Anikka called whilst I was at the jetty and we had a very nice chat. I was hoping to spend Christmas with Anikka and family but they had plans in Victor Harbor, so I sent them my love as a gift. One of my goals is to find all of the geocaches on King Island (15 in total) and I made another find before going home for a long nap. Christmas Day sure is a day to recharge. Dinner this evening was one of my favourites: roast lamb with gravy, potatoes, pumpkin, and mint sauce. Afterward, we'd take a drive down to Grassy to see the blue penguins. I was bitten on the finger by a blue penguin a long time ago in New Zealand, and I've of course seen thousands of penguins in Antarctica. Just to remind everyone, there are no polar bears in Antarctica and no penguins at the North Pole. In fact, the Galapagos penguin is the only penguin in the northern hemisphere. I didn't manage any decent photos of the penguins as it was dark and it's not good to use a flash around them.

Whilst travel around Christmas is expensive, I always do my best to be somewhere special. Christmas was always very interesting when I was a child. When we would write a Christmas list, our Dad would do his best to make sure he got us as much as possible as we asked for, even if I had six or seven Nintendo games on my list. As an adult, I prefer moments rather than things as Christmas gifts. If someone is going to get me something I love something useful, such as a calendar.

As a connoisseur of Australia, being in the Lucky Country isn't complete without a trip to King Island. Kelly and Phil, I had the most wonderful Christmas with you. Thank you very much for making my Christmas Day and my time on King Island so special.

Photos: King Island

kiwiaoraki — Mon, 23 Dec 2024 13:28:00 GMT

Brekkie. Hike. Bestie.

kiwiaoraki — Mon, 9 Dec 2024 02:25:00 GMT

Adventures with Miss Anikka Double-K would continue today. This morning I woke up a little bit emotional but she and I decided it's best to finish our visit on a high note, as she was excited for breakfast and a hike. It is been an absolutely wonderful visit with Anikka and family, and my love for her gets stronger all the time. She has given me a massage, we've went to dinner together, and she helped me remove my cast the other day so that I have two free hands once again. In addition to a million photos, hugs, and kisses, she helped me find a wrist brace for support whilst it continues to heal. Anikka truly looks after me like a best friend. Today I had an opportunity to introduce her to my film director, and she could immediately see how happy I am with her. Anikka has brought me far more joy and happiness than any girlfriend, any lover, or any other person in my lifetime. As the most powerful force in the universe, it's very interesting how love works. Anikka and I would go to a vegan restaurant, and we'd not only share delicious stuff like a vegan portobello burger, but many smiles, hugs, and talks. Without question, this has been my best visit with Anikka as we're on the same page in so many ways. We've had many great talks during this visit, and they've all been receieved well by both sides. Anikka and I have a very beautiful friendship, and I would not have our friendship any other way.

Anikka and I went hiking together for the first time, and we chose Morialta Reserve. It was a bit hot for hiking today but we didn't care, as we just simply enjoyed our time together.

She always leaves me with a permanent, beaming smile. We saw an echidna on our hike.

The echidna and the duck-billed platypus are the world's only monotremes (egg-laying mammals), and I've seen both in the wild. Upon getting home, it was time to get my stuff ready and head towards Melbourne, which will be an overnight trip. We couldn't finish our time together without a few more fun and nice photos.

Anikka has asked me to allow her to come up to me more often to give me hugs and kisses, rather than me always going up to her. She said that well, as her kisses and hugs feel so much better when she initiates it. It's the same when she sends me a text out of the blue, as I always smile when I receive it. Whenever I'm with Anikka, I'm always on a huge natural high, and I always want to give her hugs and kisses, be next to her, compliment her, write her cards, and tell her that I love her.

It was cold this evening, and perhaps it felt even colder since Anikka wasn't there to hug me. However, as I lay in my tent, I think about Anikka and the most wonderful friendship that we have. If I was suddenly given three things to keep, it would be my good health, my passport, and Anikka's friendship. I have some stuff I have to work on for next time I'm with Miss Anikka Double-K. I must be better at allowing her to come up to me more often with hugs and kisses rather than me bombarding her. After all, she's very good at doing for me what I do for her. Anikka isn't my girlfriend, but my best friend, or "bestie" in Aussie vocabulary. I don't ever, ever, in a million years, want this fine lady to be upset with me or with things that I do. I promise you that I will do better and be the best friend I could possibly be.

Anikka, you are my favourite lady in the universe. I cherish our friendship more than my visits to 91 countries across seven continents. You and I have so much to do together, and I'm looking forward to it. I love you darling. Thank you so much for our tasty brekkie, a fabulous hike, and, most important of all, your love and friendship. I simply love you.

Anikka Evolution

kiwiaoraki — Fri, 6 Dec 2024 11:16:00 GMT

10 years ago, I met the lady who would change my life. Little did I realise that, on that train ride, I would meet someone who would remain so dear to me. Anikka is my bestie, the lady I love most, and my favourite lady in the universe. Speaking of which, the universe had me in Adelaide on that particular day so I could meet this wonderful lady.

It took me four nights to hitchhike from Perth to Adelaide, sleeping in a tent the entire time, and I wanted to throw my smelly self into the shower before she got home from her power walk. Otherwise, I would have been tempted to throw my arms around her. She and her family are the only people whom I would undertake such a journey for. I wouldn’t even hitchhike more than 2,500 kilometres to meet my favourite celebrity but I would make that sort of effort to visit the Lagana home. Anikka would give me one of her legendary massages this evening. From Thailand to Sweden, I’ve received hundreds of massages on my travels, but Anikka gives the absolute best massage in the world. Relaxed from her magic touch, we would go out for a lovely all-you-can-eat Japanese dinner in Glenelg. As we got up to leave, I heard someone yell out "Chris!" and it turned out it was my friend Abbe from Airlie Beach. She recognised me from my cast and hat. Abbe is the first friend to personally meet Anikka, and she described us as being adorable.

Over the years I’ve watched Anikka grow and mature. She has grown from a lady who was somewhat insecure and would easily get emotional to someone who is now so much more confident. Our friendship has evolved beautifully, and I love Anikka more and more every time I see her. At times it’s been turbulent but most often it’s filled with a lot of love. I always give her hundreds of hugs and kisses, but she has learned to appreciate them, even when she points out that I give her a wet kiss. We can get into a falling out, yet we still hug each other and express our love for each other. Anytime I ever leave the Lagana home, I’m always a bit sad but then I have a moment akin to Cinderella and how she felt after dancing with the prince at the ball, telling the fairy godmother how wonderful it was. I always leave Adelaide with a beaming smile. Anikka makes me a better person and makes me think of others in a way that I never have. The sky is the limit for Anikka. She’s a brilliant aerialist and massage therapist and has the most beautiful voice. With her talents, she can do absolutely anything she puts her mind to.

Tonight would mark a personal milestone and major achievement…one that I never thought that I would ever feel. As Anikka and I sat quietly in the grass on this warm summer evening, I admitted that her that I would consider helping her have a baby. I made sure to tell her first that I’m not expecting or hoping anything, but that in the hypothetical situation we were together, and the topic came up, I would at the very least consider it. However, I don’t see it ever happening as we’re not a true couple and how I was burned out on children at a very young age. The chances of me having children with anyone are virtually nil, but I feel so much better telling Anikka that the offer is there and how she’s the only lady I would even consider that with. I’m very content with where Anikka and I stand, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. I feel at my age and with my lifestyle, I’m probably better off with a lady whom I can love and admire, rather than one whom I would marry and have children with. This magical evening would be capped off by a gorgeous sunset.

It’s very interesting how love works. Sex, money, fame, and looks don’t equate to love. Kindness, compassion, and friendship do. I’ve met beautiful ladies who appear straight off of magazine covers, and I’ve met ladies whom I’ve had an absolutely wonderful time with on my travels but still, nobody compares to Anikka. After travelling to 91 countries and all seven continents, the best gift I’ve ever received is my love and friendship with Miss Anikka Double-K, and the finest moment in 40 years on Earth isn’t stepping foot on Antarctica or graduating from university, but moments I've spent with Anikka, the finest lady in the universe.

Anikka darling, thank you so much for always being there for me and for sticking by me. I love you to the stars and back, and to the end of the cosmos.

Wrist Fracture

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 5 Nov 2024 13:14:00 GMT

Chiang Mai is truly one of my happy places; it's easily up there with Norfolk Island and Queenstown among places where I love and feel so happy and comfortable. After a tough slog in Southern Africa or gallivanting the Middle East, Chiang Mai, with its great food, numerous temples, and cheap massages, is the perfect antidote. I would end up here again after visiting Saudi Arabia, Oman, Bahrain, and Kuwait (and having my trip to Iran cancelled). In the Middle East there is virtually nowhere to get a massage or have a drink. Four trips have now done to Thailand and I always find myself going back to Chiang Mai.

This morning I went out for an early morning walk, getting a coffee as usual. When I'm in Chiang Mai I usually just take it easy but I don't want to spend all my time eating and getting massages. On my first trip to Chiang Mai in 2020 I went to Doi Suthep but didn't go any further than that. As an unplanned trip I decided on hiking Doi Pui. I could have had a motorbike driver take me up but decided to save a few baht and hitchhike. In an inexpensive country like Thailand, it's easy to just throw money around. I ended up with some cooler weather at Doi Suthep but thought I'd hitchhike further up the mountain, where I had not yet been. One more lift would get me to Doi Pui, where it was nice and cool. Rarely one to back down from a challenge, I decided to tackle the summit of Doi Pui at 1,685 metres (still, nothing in comparison to Damavand or Kilimanjaro). I nearly turned around twice, but decided to press forward. From the lookout there wasn't much of a view at all as it was very foggy. Suddenly it started to rain heavily, and I then walked quickly. There were no stairs, ropes, or railings to hold onto, only trees and branches, and I was hiking in sandals. I was more concerned about my passport and DSLR camera getting wet. There were no shelters to take cover in, either, so my only option was to get out and find cover somewhere. About 20 metres before I got to the road I fell backwards and then tried to catch myself, landing straight on my left wrist. It was disfigured. I knew straight away that it was broken! I was in shock, as I had never broken a bone before. I was impressed that I made it to 40 without breaking a bone. Hurriedly I made my way to the park office where the park rangers had a look of horror in their faces. They had me sit down and then propped my left wrist up, and they called an ambulance for me. I was scared and shaking...I had never broken a bone or spent any time in a hospital before. It seemed like an eternity as the ambulance would have had to fight traffic all the way up Doi Pui.

The ambulance would eventually carry me down the mountain, and suddenly I had to face my biggest fear, and in a foreign country: doctors and hospitals. I felt absolutely helpless, and since traffic was heavy it took nearly an hour to get to the hospital. I was wheeled out of the ambulance, in a state that I had never been in before. I'm used to getting up on my own and doing stuff, and they wheeled me into the hospital room. I was all muddy rather than bloody, as both the park rangers and the doctor thought I fell off a motorscooter. Across from me was a Burmese man who was struck by a cannonball; since this is the closest hospital to the Myanmar border, a lot of patients are brought here since Thailand's medical system is far better.

When I was about two and a half I cracked my chin open in the bathtub, and that's the last time I was ever in hospital any type of treatment. This is a totally new experience for me. I wasn't expecting this, as I was expecting hitchhike back down the mountain, have dinner somewhere, and have a rather quiet evening. After waiting about an hour the doctor came, and he attached my thumb and index finger and then put a weight on my arm.

He injected some anaesthesia into my wrist, but I could still feel some pain as he was setting the bone, so he gave me an extra dose. Although I was cringing, I knew I was gonna be alright. This would be the perfect time to be travelling with a friend or a partner. A temporary cast was put on my arm, and I was given some painkillers. It turned out I suffered a distal radius fracture. The distal radius is the most commonly broken bone in the human body, and is most commonly broken when the person puts their hand out when they fall, such as when snowboarding or on a motorscooter. Thankfully I wasn't put on antibiotics, but the doctor told me that if the bone had broken through the skin I would have needed surgery straight away and been prescribed antibiotics. At the end of the ordeal I was surprised that my hospital bill was only $75 (US), when I was thinking as an American that I'd be I would be going into insolvency. The X-rays were 80% of the hospital bill. At about 7PM I was released And I got Grab bike back to my hostel. My dorm mates were shocked when they saw the configuration I'll be in for the next several weeks. Although still in pain, I still have my feet and I decided to do what I love most in Chiang Mai: eat and get a massage. Buttoning a shirt, tying my shoes, and even having a shower will be a challenge for the next several weeks. The massage therapist felt really bad for me and helped me have a shower and get changed. For her help, I shouted her dinner. I called my mother, who was visiting my father, and showed them what happened today.

A few days later I'd get a permanent cast on my arm and then I would do stuff as normal. I've always had a reputation for being tough as rusty nails but even I'm a mere mortal. I'll get through this.

Photos: Muscat

kiwiaoraki — Sat, 2 Nov 2024 17:11:00 GMT

Border Scare

kiwiaoraki — Thu, 31 Oct 2024 20:18:00 GMT

If something scary is gonna happen, it's bound to happen on Halloween, eh? What happened this evening had nothing to do with ghosts, goblins, or vampires, and I didn't dress up. It's rare that I have truly scary moments whilst travelling; being robbed at gunpoint in Guatemala in '12 is at the top of that list. More than two weeks in Saudi Arabia left me with a positive impression of a place that I'd heard largely negative stories about. For the past few days I was in Al Khobar and Dammam but my flight to Oman is from Kuwait tomorrow. Ideally I would have liked to have skipped the Kuwait to Oman leg and just travelled by land to Oman and got on my flight to Bangkok from there. I enjoyed Kuwait whilst I was there but I didn't want to backtrack and since my flight was at 6 PM I theoretically could have got up extra early and hitchhiked to Kuwait in time for my flight but that would be leaving it awfully close for time.

Hitchhiking from Dammam to the Saudi Arabia-Kuwait border was little drama, but when I got there I was told I couldn't walk across. Like when I went to Ukraine a few months ago I had to be in a vehicle. When I put my thumb out a young man with a Kuwait licence plate stopped. After crossing the no-man's land I was told by the Kuwaiti officials that I had to go inside and get a new visa (which is free). The driver was demanding money and then tried to hold on to my rucksack when I went to get it out of the back seat with him saying "give me money" even though he only gave me a lift about 500 metres. Before arriving in Kuwait last month I applied for the visa online because I thought that I'd be charged 3 KD if I applied on arrival and that online it was free. I was unaware that it only allows a single entry. I had to go into another room to have my fingerprints and photo taken, and whilst I was in there I used that time to swap SIM cards. When I came back out, my rucksack was gone! "Damn it, where's my bag!" I yelled out. The Kuwaiti officials told me not to worry since there are cameras all around. Freaking out, the young man called me back to his car. He came inside and put my rucksack back in his car, so I opened the door, grabbed it, and told him he was making me uncomfortable. He kept hanging around and I stayed inside the immigration office and yelled for him to leave. I ended up walking past the customs officials and I started walking toward a petrol station that was about 500 metres away, and the young man pulled up in his car again. By then I was feeling scared, not knowing if he has a gun, a knife, or any other type of weapon. He then pulled up to the side of the road and by then I'm thinking about how I just want someone to stop for me, I'll jump in their vehicle and just get the hell out of there. When someone stopped, the young man was yelling out to him and then they drove off without me. A few minutes later, someone else stopped and by then the police were talking to the young man. The police came over and they were at the driver's side and the told me to get out. By this point I really just wanted to get away from the border as fast as possible. This young man tried to extort money from me, tried to steal my bag, and then tried to extort money again. On top of that, I was having difficulty finding a CouchSurfing host for my only night in Kuwait. I was put in touch with a guy named Hussain, and he speaks English fluently. Eventually the police would tell both of us to come back to the office and write a statement. At that point, the young man just got back in his vehicle and drove off. In many places, vehicles operate as unofficial taxis, and I understand that. If I'm hitchhiking, I have to make it clear beforehand that I'm hitchhiking. In some circumstances an official taxi will stop and won't charge me for a lift; that happened when I was hitchhiking to the airport in Oslo a few years ago.

In the end I couldn't find a CouchSurfing host and I ended up staying at a relatively inexpensive hotel. Hotels are boring! Places like the Hilton, Radisson, and Ritz-Carlton are soulless in my opinion. Even if I'm travelling on business where all of my expenses are covered, I vastly prefer staying with friends or locals; it's a lot more fun and interesting. I would wake up refreshed and, after searching around for a cup of tea, I'd have a delicious lunch with Hussain and his friend before they drove me to the airport. It gave me an opportunity to thank Hussain for helping me out last night and acting as a translator. My flight from Kuwait to Bangkok is via Oman with SalamAir, and I didn't book a checked bag. Cleverly, I asked Hussain's friend to hold on to my smaller bag, with my laptop and all that other stuff, so that it appeared that I had less luggage. Booking a checked bag would have cost nearly US$100 extra!

Many travellers before me have described Kuwait as boring. Whilst I was scared a bit, I had a lot more fun moments and was never bored. Next up is a short sojourn in Oman before going to Thailand.

Photos: Bahrain

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 29 Oct 2024 08:30:00 GMT

Sheep Storm

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 29 Oct 2024 07:26:00 GMT

Get it? Bah-Rain! There are no sheep and no storms here. It's perhaps the only country with "rain" in its name yet there's very little rain in this tiny oil-rich Gulf country. Most of these countries seem like they have more oil than water. For the past few days I've been staying with a CouchSurfing host named Awwadh who recently moved to Al Khobar from Mecca. We discussed a trip to Bahrain for the day but he's been really busy so I decided to go it alone. Since he lives so close to the King Fahd Causeway I didn't have to walk very far and it didn't take long to get a lift. My driver, who is from Bangladesh, was able to enter for free since he had a Saudi residence permit but I had to pay 5 Bahraini dinars (BD) to enter the country. I had no cash, so my driver paid and I put 5 BD worth of petrol when he stopped at a servo. From there I started walking.

Utahns go to Vegas and Aussies go to Bali but Saudis go to Bahrain to unleash their hedonism. As the most liberal country in the Middle East, Saudis flock here for shopping, drinking, massages, and nightlife. Unlike in Saudi Arabia, I found postcards, magnets, and stamps straight away at the souq. Bahrain is my 90th country visited and in one short trip, I've visited most of the Gulf countries. The only Gulf country left to visit is the United Arab Emirates and the only other country in the Arabian Peninsula left is to visit is Yemen. I began my Bahraini afternoon by sending myself two postcards and having a stroll around the souq.

I can't seem to go anywhere these days without finding at least one geocache, so my first "find" in Bahrain was a virtual cache at the souq. From there I took the bus to the Al Fateh Grand Mosque. Opened only in 1988, the mosque is one of Bahrain's top attractions but is only open to visitors on Fridays.

Most mosques tend to look similar on the inside, therefore I didn't complain about not being able to go inside. I signed my first physical geocache in Bahrain next to the mosque after borrowing a pen from a bus driver. From there it was a warm evening; a nice one for a walk with sand between my toes. These cats look all nice and cozy.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do, right? When in Bahrain, do as the Saudis do! Since I hadn't had a glass of wine in weeks it was time to unleash. At the pub I had a few glasses of wine all whilst working girls were trying to get me to use their services. Smoking is still allowed inside many places around the world, even though I wish it would be banned everywhere. A guy was really heated with me after I got upset with him about smoking inside.

I couldn't drink too much wine as I had to find my tipsy way back to Saudi Arabia, so after a few glasses of vino, I was on my way. Two different buses would get me back to the border and I hitchhiked across. Bahrain won't win any awards for being one of my favourite countries but it made a nice afternoon and evening away from Saudi Arabia, as well as having the ability to have a few drinks and add another country to my travel collection. It's one of the very few countries that I've spent only a day in. It's my 90th country or territory overall and my 73rd UN member country.

Photos: Dammam and Al Khobar

kiwiaoraki — Mon, 28 Oct 2024 11:27:00 GMT

Photos: Taif

kiwiaoraki — Sat, 26 Oct 2024 11:24:00 GMT

At a mile above sea level, it rains and can be chilly. An antithesis of Saudi Arabia

Photos: Madinah

kiwiaoraki — Wed, 23 Oct 2024 11:22:00 GMT

One of the Two Holy Mosques

AlUla

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 17:38:00 GMT

Jordan has Petra, Croatia has Dubrovnik, and Japan has Kyoto. In its fledging tourism industry, Saudi Arabia has Al-Ula (sometimes spelt AlUla, which is the spelling I prefer because that makes it a perfect palindrome), which is the gateway to Mada'in Saleh, also known as Hegra. A series of more than 100 temples carved out of sandstone that are as mystical as they are breathtaking. After a few days in Ha'il, I arrived in Al-Ula last night. It was one of those rare places where I couldn't find a CouchSurfing host, and I don't have camping gear, so I had to book a hotel. Hitchhiking all the way across the desert hasn't been too difficult as I made it here easily yesterday. After putting my bags away I power walked toward Elephant Rock so that I didn't get there in the dark.

A lovely atmosphere it is at night, and it's the first place in Saudi Arabia where I've really bumped into other travellers. Unlike Angola, Saudi Arabia isn't exactly new to the tourist circuit. Before tourist visas were issued, there were millions of hajj and umrah pilgrims and many people working in Saudi Arabia who did road trips and the like.

It's not possible to visit Madain Saleh on your own, so the only option is to take a tour. It helped because I did so much walking earlier in the day. Despite being, perhaps, the Kingdom's most visited town, there is surprisingly little infrastructure here. There are no hostels, no places to change money, and very few places to eat. Al-Ula itself is somewhat ramshackle and isn't an attractive town at all. Place a blindfold on me and I would think I was in Sedona, Arizona, or Karijini National Park as the setting is spectacular!

At 3 PM, the bus would whisk me to these magnificent temples. With the exception of a Scottish/Portuguese couple who live in Bahrain, everyone else on the bus was from Indonesia. Dating from the Nabataean Kingdom of 1st century AD, the site was part of its second largest city. Petra was the capital. The Nabataeans were one of several Bedouin tribes that roamed the Arabian Desert in search of water, but their origin remains unknown. In 2008, these temples became Saudi Arabia's first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Due to the dry climate and lack of resettlement after being abandoned, the temples are in an excellent state of preservation. It is only possible to enter one temple!

The largest and most spectacular is the Tomb of Lihyan Son of Kuza

What a sight to behold! Sometimes called Qasr al-Farid, or "Lonely Castle," it was never finished as there are distinct chisel marks on the lower section of the tomb. Other tombs clearly show that the Nabataeans built from the top down. The uncarved rock formations are equally impressive, as it looks like this rock is kissing his lady on the cheek.

I'm thankful that I did the trip on the bus. It's only 95 SAR (about $25 US) and I enjoyed the onboard commentary about the 131 carved temples. When I think about it, it's probably best that they only offer a guided tour. If locals came on their own they'd probably bring picnics and leave plastic bottles and chicken bones everywhere. In addition, it's a lengthy walk between the various groups of temples.

In the past two years I've been to so many places from the off-the-wall to the iconic: Tuvalu, the Parthenon, Nauru, the Taj Mahal, the Pyramids, Papua New Guinea, the Berlin Wall, Kuwait, and now the majestic temples of Mada'in Saleh. I was extremely disappointed when Iran was cancelled but the silver lining is that made it to these temples. Majestic. Marvellous. I would explore these temples again for sure.

Photos: AlUla

kiwiaoraki — Mon, 21 Oct 2024 16:54:00 GMT

Home of the Nabatean civilisation

Edge of the World

kiwiaoraki — Thu, 17 Oct 2024 20:51:00 GMT

Oh, how I wish I could soar like an Arabian falcon over what I saw today. How is it that I can be 40 years old and have 20 years of travel experience under my belt and still manage to find places that make my jaw drop in awe? The number of places is to visit and adventures to be had in this world is limitless. I feel like I could spend ten lifetimes on Earth and still not see everything. After doing so many things in Riyadh in just a few days, I just had to see the Edge of the World for myself. I thought about attempting to hitchhike but then thought I might as well book a tour. Normally I shun tours but sometimes they make life so much easier. I had to get to a Dunkin' Donuts all the way on the edge of town, meaning I had to book an Uber. As a group gathered, we all piled into a 4WD (a tour coach wouldn't have made it on these unsealed roads). The guide stopped to get us ice cream before we explored some ruins.

It's amazing how some of these mud buildings can last for centuries but with such a dry climate it isn't surprising. These weren't the highlight of day, however. Camels would hang out outside of our vehicles.

Over the course of my travels I've had encounters with camels in Ethiopia, Egypt, and Australia. I still have to visit the Gobi Desert: home of the Bactrian camel, which is the world's only two-humped camel. The scenery would only become more majestic...

...and this was the highlight of the day! Located at the end of the Tawfaiq Mountains, these cliffs appear straight out of somewhere in Western Australia or the American Southwest. This bit looks like kebab or shwarma meat when it's roasting.

I wish I had brought Juliett (my drone) with me, but I didn't bring her on this journey because she wouldn't have been allowed into Iran. It wouldn't have been an issue here because I saw at least one person flying a drone. Never one to be fearful at the edge of a cliff, I just had to enjoy this majestic sunset.

I'm glad my mother doesn't travel with me because I've always been a daredevil: I've jumped out of airplanes and off bridges and I have hundreds of photos of me hanging over cliffs, waterfalls, etc. What shocked me is the amount of rubbish, particularly plastic bottles, I saw lying around. I was even more upset when my driver left his Dunkin' Donuts cup at the lookout, and he did it knowingly because he placed a couple of rocks inside of it and left it there. I opened up my backpack and filled it up with about 30 plastic bottles, and I encouraged others at the lookout to bring some plastic with them to throw away when they got back to Riyadh. Like much of Europe, Saudi Arabia would do really well with a recycling program. A giant Full Moon would greet us as we made our way back to our respective vehicles. Dinner under the stars sounded magical and majestic, so we all chatted as we drank tea and feasted on chicken and rice with an aromatic Arab flavour. Why would I need 4-star hotel when I can feast as I gaze at millions of stars and a colourful Moon? The Edge of the World made my jaw just absolutely drop in awe today.

In the dark we were dropped at the same Dunkin' Donuts that we met at earlier. Fortunately I was able to get a lift with a couple of the guys who were also on the tour, meaning I could get to an area where I could go back to Ahmed's house via public transport. Five days in Riyadh has been wonderful. I'll be setting out toward AlUla tomorrow where I'll be visiting the remains of the old Nabatean Civilization, and Ahmed made me one final pot of Egyptian mint tea before I continue on my way. There's a lot more to the Kingdom than just Riyadh but this massive city and the Edge of the World have both been amazing starting points.

Photos: Ha'il

kiwiaoraki — Thu, 17 Oct 2024 11:18:00 GMT

Figuring Out Riyadh

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 15 Oct 2024 21:34:00 GMT

Riyadh may be the only city in the world where I can't simply rely on a combination of public transport, a bicycle, and my own two feet. The capital of the Kingdom (KSA) sprawls for many kilometres across the desert and is a car-oriented city. This morning I woke up mad at myself that I couldn't figure out a bus into the city centre yesterday but it was time to bite the bullet and use Uber, at least some of the way. Some cities, like Paris or Barcelona have been on every traveller's list for many decades or even centuries whilst Rome and Jerusalem have been attracting travellers for thousands of years. Riyadh is another kettle of fish, as it has been open for just a few years.

In the searing heat, I got my morning cuppa at Starbucks and then booked an Uber to Diriyah. Regarded as the birthplace of modern Saudi Arabia, Diriyah was the original home of the Saudi royal family. The district of At-Turaif consists of many mudbrick buildings and Salwa Palace.

Built in 1766 by Imam Abdul Aziz ibn Muhammad ibn Saud, it was the headquarters of the first Saudi state. During the heat of the day, tickets are free. Before I even went inside I chatted with a Canadian lady named Jane. She has been to 88 countries and all seven continents. Such a fascinating place to wander, knowing that few travellers have visited Salwa Palace. Like in Angola, I feel like a pioneer traveller in Saudi Arabia, even though people have been travelling by camel through the Arabian Desert for thousands of years, and how before there were tourists there were business travellers.

I would go "tower nuts" as I booked an Uber to Al Faisaliah Tower, which looks like a boat standing on end.

For 69 riyals I went up into the tower. Disappointingly, the glass panels were dirty. A group of Dutch travellers came up and then I had a clever idea. A guy had his girlfriend get on his shoulders, and then I handed her my phone to get some photos above the glass panels. The Kingdom Tower is Riyadh's most iconic landmark.

Although it appears close, it is more than three kilometres away from Al Faisaliah Tower. Despite the distance, I walked to the Kingdom Tower. It's the world's third tallest building with a hole, and above the hole is the Sky Bridge. I already did one tower, so it was time for another tower. With my wallet another 69 riyals lighter, I had the bright purple lights around me and only air just a few metres below me. It looks like the interior of a flying saucer.

Riyadh looks spectacular at night, with lights all the way past the horizon. With excitement I called my mother just so I could show her the view.

Not wanting to get home too late, I decided I wasn't booking an Uber. I was gonna travel my way and figure out public transport all the way home. I had to wait a bit, change buses twice, and then walk the rest of the way home. It took nearly two hours to get from Kingdom Tower to Ahmed's home but, I did it. I mastered it. After today I'm much happier that I've mastered public transport in a city that has very little of it. Upon exiting the bus I sat down for a well deserved dinner of shwarma and kebabs and a cup of tea, content that in two days I haven't just figured out my way around Riyadh but mastered it.

The Kingdom

kiwiaoraki — Mon, 14 Oct 2024 21:21:00 GMT

My trip to Iran, which I'd been looking forward to for most of the year, was cancelled only the night before leaving! I even checked in online for my flight only to receive a message telling me that my flight to Tehran with Kuwait Airways had been cancelled. I tried to quickly organise another flight but the expedition leader informed me that they cancelled all tours for everyone. I was devastated! Tensions have been boiling betwen Israel, Lebanon, and Iran, and may be about to boil over since Iran fired missiles at Israel last week. A trip to Iran has now eluded me three times and this time it really hurts. It was like being about to win the NBA championship and I'm in control for most of the game, only for the other team to come all the way back and beat me on a last-second shot.

Altering travel plans is nothing new for me (enter COVID-19) so when one door closes, another opens. Pondering my options during a couple extra days in Kuwait, I opted for Saudi Arabia. The Kingdom only started issuing tourist visas in 2019. Before that, the only way to visit the country was to either perform the hajj or umrah, work here, or travel in transit. For a couple of years back in the early 2010s it was possible to visit on a guided tour, similar to North Korea, but that was eventually ended and the government stopped issuing tourist visas altogether. In 2017 I visited the Royal Embassy of Saudi Arabia in Los Angeles, and inquired about a transit visa there but I was told that it only lasts for three days and that it wasn't easy to get. Saudi Arabia could have put my plan to visit every country in jeopardy but that's no longer an issue as they're actively promoting tourism as part of Vision 2030. Whilst I planned on hitchhiking to Riyadh, I had credit from my Kuwait Airways flight to Tehran so I went to an agent and booked a flight to Riyadh, and they didn't charge me the fare difference! Upon landing last night I received a warm welcome as the Saudi immigration officer liked my Barmah leather hat and told me I have a nice smile, and before landing I was concerned about wearing shorts and having pictures of girls on my phone. There are no buses or any type of public transport from the airport; taxis or an Uber are your only options. An Uber to the home of Ahmed, my current CouchSurfing host, would set me back close to $30 (US).

Founded by Abdulaziz Ibn Saud in 1932, Saudi Arabia is the only country named after the family who founded it (House of Saud). It is one of the last remaining absolute monarchies, meaning the king has total power. It's hot in Saudi Arabia at this time of year, but the Kingdom without heat would be like Antarctica without ice; it's all part of the experience. After a good sleep I wanted to get out there but it's a long, long way from anywhere to anywhere in Riyadh. Public transport is a nightmare at best and nonexistent at worst, although the long-awaited Riyadh Metro is nearing completion. If I could compare Riyadh to one place I've been to, it would be Phoenix, Arizona. It's a very hot, vast city that sprawls across the desert for as far as the eye can see, and any must-see sights are very far away from each other. I missed the bus because I was standing in the wrong spot, and the driver wouldn't open the door for me when I caught up to the bus stopped at a red light. I had to wait 20 minutes for another bus and then I ended up at the Diplomatic Quarter. Having to navigate the myriad of police in the area, my host, Ahmed, is working here so I had his live location on WhatsApp to show them. In Richard Bodeker Park I found my first Saudi Arabian geocache as well as some interesting rock formations.

A so called "Ambassador of Green," Richard Bodeker was a German landscape architect who worked for over 45 years designing and promoting green spaces in Saudi Arabia. The heat will drain your energy quickly and the best thing I can stress is to drink a lot of water! I didn't make it very far today, and I'm disappointed with my progress after today. I went just past the Diplomatic Quarter and that was it. Riyadh may be that one place where it may be best, for sake of convenience, to just book an Uber.

One thing I never get tired of hearing is the call to prayer, even though it is sometimes my de facto alarm clock. Muslims are obligated to pray five times per day. The five prayers in their respective order are Fajr, Dhuhr, Asr, Maghrib, and Isha. They take place, respectively, before dawn, noon, late afternoon, at sunset, and at nighttime, always in the qibla, the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca. Visiting Mecca would be a very fascinating experience but non-Muslims cannot enter Mecca. Ahmed would pick me up and then we'd have shwarma for dinner, and then at home he made some Egyptian tea. I would then take advantage of the warm evening by going for a long walk.

Tomorrow I'll be planning my day better and I'll be doing a lot more. I'm looking forward to seeing a lot more of Riyadh; exploring a city that only recently opened up to the world.

Photos: Riyadh

kiwiaoraki — Sun, 13 Oct 2024 17:14:00 GMT

Q8 Style

kiwiaoraki — Thu, 10 Oct 2024 21:24:00 GMT

Numerous travellers before me have described Kuwait as being about the most boring place they've ever travelled to. Would it be? I just had to find out for myself. Only yesterday did my planned CouchSurfing host, Mohammed, cancel on me due to a family emergency in Egypt (where he's from). That meant I had to organise another host quickly as there is only one hostel, and hotels cost at least $60 per night. After sending about 15 requests I ended up being flooded with offers at the last minute. The sunset didn't disappoint as the plane flew in. The visa on arrival costs 3 KD but if you do it online it's free. Another Mohammed would offer to pick me up at the airport. I should add that I can't even begin to tell you how many Mohammeds, Ahmeds, Mahmouds, Tariqs, etc. I've sent CouchSurfing requests to in some of these Arab countries. Mohammed offered to host me but he lives in Jahra, which is a fair way outside of Kuwait City. When another host named Taufeeq responded, Mohammed recommended that I stay there since he was in Salmiya, closer to the city and what few real sights it has to offer. We would have dinner of a typical Middle Eastern fare of kebabs, vegetables roasted on a skewer, and pita bread, washed down with tea. There is no alcohol available in Kuwait and I'm really happy about that. Kuwait is another one of those places I've known since I was about six years old. Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990, sparking the Gulf War and placing this tiny, oil-rich country on the map. Kuwait City is considered the hottest city in the world, with long summers and temperatures often exceeding 50 degrees in July or August. The Kuwaiti dinar is the world's strongest currency, with one dinar (KD) being worth about US$3.26. One dinar is equal to 1000 fils and the smallest note is 1/4 dinar (250 fils). During my first semester in college I had a geography class with a guy named Mishaal. When I saw him at his car, I noticed his licence plate read "Q8STYLE" and I asked him what that meant. It turned out he was from Kuwait.

Mohammed offered to drive me around today, and I first wanted to go to the post office for some stamps. So far it has been tricky to find any postcards, fridge magnets, or anything like that. A shopkeeper at Al Mubarakiya last night thought a postcard was SIM card. Lack of tourism in Kuwait is likely due to a few factors. It's sandwiched between Iraq, which has for the longest time had safety and security issues, and Saudi Arabia, which up until a few years ago didn't even issue tourist visas. Oil production means tourism has been a low priority. Kuwait is filled with expats but the majority of them are working rather than buying postcards. The ban on alcohol is likely another major deterrent to come to Kuwait for a casual holiday. The Kuwait Towers are easily Kuwait's biggest draw.

For 3 KD I went up into the observation deck. The glass was dirty and the view of Kuwait City wouldn't win any awards but it was nice to go up.

After descending the Kuwait Towers I wanted to get two trekking poles at an outdoor store. Mt. Wilhelm, at 4,509 metres is the highest mountain I've ever climbed but Mt. Damavand is at an astounding 5,610 metres above sea level. In addition to trekking poles I got a rechargeable headlamp: one that you plug in just like a mobile phone, meaning I no longer have to deal with flat batteries. As a late lunch we had similar to what we ate last night, as I really enjoy Middle Eastern food. Restaurants in the region tend to have family booths where you can close the door for privacy.

The heat saps your energy quickly and, although I should have gone home and rested for a bit, I had Mohammed drop me at the bus stop leading to Al Mubarakiya where I continued my in-vain search for postcards. A cat on a mat, this kitten would welcome me.

I thought of Anikka when I saw this scene as she loves cats. Amir is another CouchSurfing host whom I sent a request to, but he didn't notice it until today. He offered to drive me around a bit and then get coffee and shwarma. Petrol in Kuwait is very cheap, so it's not as expensive as in many other countries to be driven around. Amir would make a couple of phone calls regarding postcards and help me to sign my first geocache in Kuwait. It was close to 40 degrees today and I wasn't going to walk an hour to find a geocache. At last, I found some postcards at a bookstore. In less than 24 hours, I've accomplished some of my goals in Kuwait that I like doing for each country. For the past few days my mother has been pleading with me not to go to Iran, and she even told me today that she's going to a local church to say a rosary prayer for me. When I called Sean (my brother), he said Mom called her freaking out. Anikka is also extremely concerned about the fact that I'm going. I told Sean that I sometimes find it difficult to enjoy some of these journeys because I have to deal with my mother's worrying, my father's criticism, and other people worrying and panicking. I checked in online for my flight to Tehran with Kuwait Airways and, only a short time later, got the news I didn't want to receive. My flight for tomorrow was cancelled! My guide, Ramin, even sent me a message earlier today that he'd be at the airport to meet me tomorrow morning. Last week, Iran fired missiles at Israel, and the latter has been vowing to respond. Since Iran is expecting retaliation, some but not all airlines have cancelled flights to and from Iran. Considering my options whilst chatting to Amir over coffee, I searched for other options to fly to Iran, but Ramin informed me a short time later that they've cancelled everyone's tours for the time being as a safety precaution. This hurts. This really hurts! It feels like being about to win the NBA championship and having been in control for 47 minutes of the game, only to have the opposing team come all the way back and beat me on a last-second shot. Of course I'd be gracious in defeat but I'd also be hurting a great deal inside. What makes this matter even more difficult is that the entire trip is booked and paid for, including a flight to Ankara on the other end of the trip. This is why I don't like making plans too far ahead; I don't know what kind of curveball that could eventually be thrown at me. When my father had his stroke last year I had nothing planned ahead, therefore I didn't have to go through the rigmarole of cancelling flights, tours, hostel bookings, etc. On this journey I also brought my Antarctic parka and mountaineering boots, which I likely won't need anywhere else in the Middle East.

Tonight I really wanted to cry. Iran has eluded me three times now. Altering travel plans is nothing new, and I have other options. A door has closed (for now) but others have opened, and Taufeeq said I'm welcome to stay at his home for a few extra days whilst I make other plans. He works the overnight shift at Starbucks, and he brought me coffee this morning.

Kuwait! Boring? Absolutely not! This year I've been to three of the (perceived) most boring countries on the planet: Kuwait, Nauru, and Tuvalu. I haven't been bored at all in any of them. Iran being cancelled is a minor setback, but I'm enjoying travelling "Kuwait Style."

Photos: Kuwait

kiwiaoraki — Wed, 9 Oct 2024 06:18:00 GMT

Aurora Australis

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 13 Aug 2024 04:39:00 GMT

In '18 I braved -16 cold on a short journey to Scandinavia to photograph the aurora borealis (northern lights). My friend Craig has an aurora forecast app on his phone and told me there would likely be an "event" going on this evening. As I walked up the steep hill from Queenstown, I could see lights shimmering and shooting across the sky...and they weren't meteors or comets. I walked faster, as I was unaware of how long the event would last. A few months ago I was in India and I missed an opportunity for a colourful celestial show in either hemisphere. This evening, the aurora australis was dancing across the sky over the Remarkables!

I travelled specifically to Scandinavia and braved the cold to have a date with the northern aurora (read my story in Sweden called "Dancing Lights"), so it's fitting that I have an easy one with the southern aurora. In the spa I was with my phone and a glass of wine, gazing at the night sky like a giant cinema screen, the temperature a relatively balmy -1. I didn't have to hitchhike and worry about my thumb freezing. Green, blue, magenta, purple, and a little bit of yellow all greeted me as the aurora danced majestically in the sky.

I didn't need only my DSLR camera, as I was able to shoot timed exposures with my smartphone.

Mesmerized, I continued to sit there in the spa as I watched the aurora move through the heavens.

If I could take Anikka to see two things, it would be the Taj Mahal under a full Moon and the aurora. Even the most inexperienced or jaded traveller will be impressed. It's not every day that you get to see a sight like this, so I enjoyed and photographed it whilst I could as I was up past 4 AM. From this day on, I have the privilege of saying I've seen the aurora on both ends of the Earth. Marvellous!

Photos: Guangzhou

kiwiaoraki — Mon, 29 Jul 2024 07:27:00 GMT

Stopover on the way from Budapest to Auckland

Photos: Budapest

kiwiaoraki — Sat, 27 Jul 2024 06:42:00 GMT

Photos: Humenné

kiwiaoraki — Fri, 26 Jul 2024 06:36:00 GMT

Photos: Lviv

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 23 Jul 2024 22:22:00 GMT

I visited Ukraine during the war, and life is going on as normal

War! What War?

kiwiaoraki — Tue, 23 Jul 2024 10:31:00 GMT

This may sound like I'm insane, but I'm in Ukraine. The war in Ukraine has been going on for more than two years but I've been here two days and you'd never believe that there was a war at all as I stroll around Lviv. Getting through the border was a bit of a slog yesterday as I couldn't walk across. I had to link up with a vehicle, so a truck driver allowed me to come with him. As I was leaving, the Polish official asked if I was a soldier. The truckie wasn't going to Lviv, and I had to get there because there's a curfew from midnight to 5 AM. The Ukrainian official placed the stamp on the last page on my passport as if other countries might fear the fact that I went to Ukraine. A local named Andrei spoke some English and he agreed to let me go with him to Lviv. At 11 PM I was safe and sound at the Dream Hostel. The receptionist first pointed the location of a bunker if we hear an air siren. As there are currently no flights into or out of Ukraine, any plane flying nearby will invariably be a Russian or Ukrainian war plane. There are plenty of travellers in Ukraine currently, as I met at least one other American, two French guys, and even several Ukrainian backpackers.

This morning as I scoped out coffee and a SIM card, I stopped at the beautiful Lviv Theatre of Opera and Ballet.

I needed something iconic to show that I fearlessly visited Ukraine during the war. Here you see a monument to Ukrainian writer and poet, Taras Shevchenko.

Before checking out of the hostel today I asked the receptionist to write "I love you" in Ukrainian, which is "ya lyublyu tebe." It's part of a story I'm writing for Anikka.

Unsurprisingly, there are't too many geocaches in Ukraine but as I was searching for virtual cache I found a sculpture of practically everything I carry whilst on the road.

I would call in for lunch at for pizza and a couple glasses of wine. All of a sudden I heard a loud boom. The chef got a laugh when I freaked out for a second but it turned out to be a bolt of lightning. When I see and hear other people jump up and run for cover, then I know it's time to worry.

Most of the war is going on in the eastern part of Ukraine and I wouldn't even think of going there, but life is going on as normal here in Lviv. People are going to work, out to lunch and dinner, playing music and going about their normal, daily lives. The Dream Hostel was fully booked last night. As I walked through a park today there were boys skateboarding and playing basketball and girls on their mobile phones. Place a blindfold on me and I'd think I'm back in Melbourne as there are plenty of buskers out doing everything from playing the violin to drawing caricatures to entertaining children with bubbles.

Lviv has many ornate cathedrals with some spectacular ceilings. Here you see the ceiling of the Latin Cathedral.

When I explore I always do it until my feet nearbly bleed, and I did so again today. Tonight I'm staying with a CouchSurfing host named Mariia and her friend Katya (Katie). Their friend, Evelina, is the sweetest.

She gave me the warmest hug before leaving today and thanked me for visiting Ukraine. Despite having sore feet I wanted to go on one more walk but Mariia would remind me to be back by the midnight curfew. This fountain looks like a series of ghosts.

In all I had a great day on my first full day in Ukraine. When I encounter full backpacker hostels, locals relaxing in the park, colourful monuments, a delicious lunch with a happy chef, and lovely ladies like Mariia, Katya, and Evelina, I have to ask myself: what war?

Photos: Białystok

kiwiaoraki — Sun, 21 Jul 2024 23:12:00 GMT

Photos: Trakai

kiwiaoraki — Sun, 21 Jul 2024 11:05:00 GMT

The first capital of Lithuania

Photos: Vilnius

kiwiaoraki — Fri, 19 Jul 2024 07:21:00 GMT

Lithuania's majestic capital

Riga

kiwiaoraki — Thu, 18 Jul 2024 22:07:00 GMT

My whirlwind journey through the Baltic States continues. Estonia is in the books, and I'm now in Riga. Last night I arrived from Tallinn after a relatively easy hitchhiking journey (which included being picked up by two gorgeous blonde ladies), and I was dropped only a short distance from the home of Oskars, who is my latest CouchSurfing host. After introducing myself and storing my stuff, I couldn't pass up a free view of Riga from the Skybar on the 26th floor of Radisson Blu Latvia.

It was dark by then but I still had time for a stroll and then dinner of a slab of pork with braised potatoes and a glass of wine. Smoking is much more liberal in Europe than in many other regions, and I've struggled a bit with that. Even when I'm sitting outside I can't handle cigarette smoke, and I had to move tables twice as I had dinner this evening. Afterwards I decided to walk home instead of taking the bus. Oskars and I stayed up late discussing basketball and his upcoming trip to New Zealand. Standing 7'3", Kristaps Porzingis is Latvia's most famous basketball export. Finally I've figured out how to pronounce his name correctly: Kris-tups. I always thought the "p" was silent.

A full day of exploring lovely Riga was on the agenda for today. Founded in 1201, it's no surprise Riga has an abundance of history and interesting architecture. After getting off the tram, my first stop of the day was the National Library of Latvia, which is shaped like an iceberg or an odd-looking boulder.

I would learn at the library that the design was inspired by a Latvian folk story called Castle of Light and Glass Mountain. This staircase is interesting...

These seats are in the shape of Tetriminos.

Designed by Alexey Pajitnov, Tetris is one of my favourite video games. I'm proud to say that since I played my first game of Tetris in about 1989 (when I was 5 years old), nobody has ever defeated me. I'm a self-professed Tetris grandmaster.

Latvia is said to have the world's oldest national flag. On this beautiful Riga day I searched for a geocache and ended up beneath a giant Latvian flag as I chatted to some colourfully dressed musicians. European flags as a whole tend to be boring, with bars or stripes. My favourite flag is that of Papua New Guinea. Riga is small but its sights are relatively spread out. It's another one of those great European cities where you don't need to make a list of places to see and go; you can stroll serendipitously and discover something unexpected. The House of the Blackheads was next on my radar.

The admission ticket includes a coffee, and it's an interesting place.

When I travel I'm always on the lookout for interesting photo opportunities. On my back I was directly below a chandelier. The Brotherhood of Blackheads is a guild for unmarried men who are merchants and foreigners, but today the building functions as a museum.

For lunch I had a Latvian feast of venison stroganoff topped with onions on a bed of potatoes.

As in much of the region, potatoes feature prominently on menus both at home and at restaurants. Likewise, the ladies are very beautiful. Latvia is said to have, on average, the world's tallest women. Immediately I thought of Anikka when I saw these beautiful ladies dressed in Latvian folk dresses.

As I'm always thinking of interesting things Anikka and I could do when we take our first journey, I asked if there's an agency where tourists can be dressed this way but they said there isn't and that it's very expensive to dress up this way. My heart felt as warm as this summer day as I strolled through what was becoming a Riga twilight. This evening I picked up a bottle of wine but I didn't realise it had a cork instead of a screw-off top, so I ducked into a restaurant where they allowed me to borrow a corkscrew. Riga, I love you. Anikka, es tevi mīlu. That's "I love you" in Latvian, and part of a story I'm writing for Anikka where I say "I love you" in 100 different languages. Maximising my time, I simply took in every moment in Riga.

Like with some of my previous journeys, my time is running down and I'm feeling pressured to travel quicker. Six weeks I did in the Nordic countries and I booked my flight out of Europe whilst in Finland. Only two nights I had in Riga, but Latvia is definitely worth more time. I'll be headed for Vilnius tomorrow.

Photos: Riga

kiwiaoraki — Wed, 17 Jul 2024 18:42:00 GMT

Photos: Tallinn

kiwiaoraki — Sun, 14 Jul 2024 22:07:00 GMT

Something straight out of a fairy tale storybook

Photos: Helsinki

kiwiaoraki — Fri, 12 Jul 2024 18:03:00 GMT

Finland's capital

Kastelholm

kiwiaoraki — Wed, 10 Jul 2024 22:02:00 GMT

Åland is a special place, that's for sure! For a long time, Åland was the only country in Europe that I hadn't received a postcard from. A couple from CouchSurfing named Maria and Ted agreed to send me a postcard during the pandemic, but little did I realise that I'd be staying with them about three years later. Yesterday on a gorgeous and sunny Åland day, Maria, Ted, and their two children welcomed me into their home. Summers are short in Åland so we dined al fresco on my first evening at their home, and after dinner I went for a long bike ride. Today was more a day of the highlights of Åland rather than just Kastelholm Castle. Armed with a lot of suggestions I would be dropped off at the fascinating Åland Museum. Especially impressive is the stamp collection.

The flag of Åland fascinates me. It has a cross like the rest of the Nordic countries. Blue represents the sea, the yellow cross symbolises its history as part of Sweden, and the red cross symbolises its connection to Finland.

The museum is also home to some very interesting art.

Since it's a sunny day I didn't want to spend all day in the museum, so I collected a few geocaches and then sat outside for a lunch of pizza and a glass of wine before tackling more of Åland. Kastelholm Castle is even more fascinating than the museum.

Built in the 14th century, the castle has been damaged and ruined several times, Kastelholm Castle is Åland's most visited attraction.

Maria and Ted impressively staged their wedding here in traditional 14th-century attire. Next to Kastelholm Castle is the Vita Bjorn Prison Museum. It functioned as a prison for more than 200 years but these days it's much more peaceful. Locals dressed in traditional attire are playing violins, baking bread, weaving textiles, and educating people on the history of Åland.

Being a beautiful summer day, it was very busy here today. Åland locally produces various cheeses, berries, chocolate, etc. but the local apple juice is especially delicious.

Bomarsund Fortress was next on my radar, so I hitchhiked out there. For a small place, it's rather challenging to hitchhike in Åland. Maria and Ted told that locals are reserved, so that could be why. I'm still getting lifts, so I can't complain. Bomarsund Fortress once had its own bakeries, churches, and wells but was never completed; French and British ships bombarded the fortress in 1854. After the Crimean War in 1856, Åland was demilitarised. These days it's a fascinating place to explore, especially on a sunny day.

It was getting rather late in the day and I had to start making my way back to Mariehamn. I'd be picked up by a man from Ukraine, and he gave me a few tips since it's on my radar for within the next few weeks. Since I haven't yet received my new credit card, I asked Ted if they could book my ferry and I'd pay them back. It's also cheaper to book online than at the port. Maria would set me up for an interview with Nya Åland, which is one of the local newspapers. They're intrigued by my story and want to hear my thoughts on Åland. Surely they'll get some high praise from me.

Åland gets a 10 out of 10 from me after four wonderful days here. Ricko and then Maria and Ted have been wonderful hosts, and it's been very interesting getting some insight on the history of and life in Åland, and the interview with Nya Åland went very well before making my way back to Finland.

Autonomous and Demilitarised

kiwiaoraki — Mon, 8 Jul 2024 14:24:00 GMT

As the ferry sailed in toward Mariehamn yesterday I passed all these tiny islands called skerries; some of them so small you can't even build a house yet some have wind turbines.

Åland is an autonomous and demilitarised part of Finland but they speak Swedish and have their own flag, parliament, licence plates, postal system, and internet domain (.ax).

You don't see or hear much Finnish spoken here. Åland is made up of more than 20,000 islands and has an interesting maritime history. The first people arrived here more than 7,000 years ago to hunt seals, and with its position in the middle of the Baltic Sea, the islands have always been a haven for seafarers. The Pommern is the world's only four-masted sailing ship that's still in its original state.

My time in Åland will be short, as in just a few days, so I spent some time in Mariehamn before getting on the bus. All buses in Åland cost €2 per trip.

I've now officially been to all of the Nordic countries. Ricko is my first CS host in Åland, and he lives in Eckero on the western end of the region. It's a good thing I got a frozen pizza before arriving since there are no shops in Eckero. Ricko is well travelled and is a drone enthusiast. A beautiful day it was as Åland is very colourful. With the sun setting at about 10 PM I couldn't help going for a long walk whilst snapping photos and collecting geocaches.

Åland has the greatest number of hours of sunshine in the entire Nordic region, and I woke up to another gorgeous, sunny day. Ricko would show me around a little bit and then went to the Eckero Mail and Customs House.

Built in 1828, it no longer functions as a post office but is now a postal museum and art gallery. From there I decided to hitchhike into Mariehamn so I could send myself a postcard and get some stuff at the store. For a small place, hitchhiking is rather challenging in Åland as it took a while to get a lift. Before long though, I was in Mariehamn where I visited Åland Post and then went to Sjokvarteret, which is a maritime museum.

By late afternoon I had already seen a fair bit, and it was time to get a few provisions and make my way home. Along with being able to recycle cans and bottles, another thing I've learned to love is fresh-squeezed orange juice from a machine where you can see the oranges being squeezed in front of you. In just over 24 hours in Åland I've seen and done a lot already as these are some fascinating islands. I've always been one to keep a full schedule whilst travelling; sitting around just doesn't appeal to me. Ricko has been a gracious host, and we had some chats as I soared Juliett (my drone) over the Åland landscape. Tomorrow I'm leaving Ricko's home and staying with a special family in Mariehamn whom I developed a connection with during the pandemic, therefore more Åland stories await.

Photos: Åland

kiwiaoraki — Sun, 7 Jul 2024 21:20:00 GMT

Part of Finland, but they speak Swedish and have their own flag

Photos: Turku

kiwiaoraki — Fri, 5 Jul 2024 06:52:00 GMT