Numerous travellers before me have described Kuwait as being about the most boring place they've ever travelled to. Would it be? I just had to find out for myself. Only yesterday did my planned CouchSurfing host, Mohammed, cancel on me due to a family emergency in Egypt (where he's from). That meant I had to organise another host quickly as there is only one hostel, and hotels cost at least $60 per night. After sending about 15 requests I ended up being flooded with offers at the last minute. The sunset didn't disappoint as the plane flew in. The visa on arrival costs 3 KD but if you do it online it's free. Another Mohammed would offer to pick me up at the airport. I should add that I can't even begin to tell you how many Mohammeds, Ahmeds, Mahmouds, Tariqs, etc. I've sent CouchSurfing requests to in some of these Arab countries. Mohammed offered to host me but he lives in Jahra, which is a fair way outside of Kuwait City. When another host named Taufeeq responded, Mohammed recommended that I stay there since he was in Salmiya, closer to the city and what few real sights it has to offer. We would have dinner of a typical Middle Eastern fare of kebabs, vegetables roasted on a skewer, and pita bread, washed down with tea. There is no alcohol available in Kuwait and I'm really happy about that. Kuwait is another one of those places I've known since I was about six years old. Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990, sparking the Gulf War and placing this tiny, oil-rich country on the map. Kuwait City is considered the hottest city in the world, with long summers and temperatures often exceeding 50 degrees in July or August. The Kuwaiti dinar is the world's strongest currency, with one dinar (KD) being worth about US$3.26. One dinar is equal to 1000 fils and the smallest note is 1/4 dinar (250 fils). During my first semester in college I had a geography class with a guy named Mishaal. When I saw him at his car, I noticed his licence plate read "Q8STYLE" and I asked him what that meant. It turned out he was from Kuwait.
Mohammed offered to drive me around today, and I first wanted to go to the post office for some stamps. So far it has been tricky to find any postcards, fridge magnets, or anything like that. A shopkeeper at Al Mubarakiya last night thought a postcard was SIM card. Lack of tourism in Kuwait is likely due to a few factors. It's sandwiched between Iraq, which has for the longest time had safety and security issues, and Saudi Arabia, which up until a few years ago didn't even issue tourist visas. Oil production means tourism has been a low priority. Kuwait is filled with expats but the majority of them are working rather than buying postcards. The ban on alcohol is likely another major deterrent to come to Kuwait for a casual holiday. The Kuwait Towers are easily Kuwait's biggest draw.
For 3 KD I went up into the observation deck. The glass was dirty and the view of Kuwait City wouldn't win any awards but it was nice to go up.
After descending the Kuwait Towers I wanted to get two trekking poles at an outdoor store. Mt. Wilhelm, at 4,509 metres is the highest mountain I've ever climbed but Mt. Damavand is at an astounding 5,610 metres above sea level. In addition to trekking poles I got a rechargeable headlamp: one that you plug in just like a mobile phone, meaning I no longer have to deal with flat batteries. As a late lunch we had similar to what we ate last night, as I really enjoy Middle Eastern food. Restaurants in the region tend to have family booths where you can close the door for privacy.
The heat saps your energy quickly and, although I should have gone home and rested for a bit, I had Mohammed drop me at the bus stop leading to Al Mubarakiya where I continued my in-vain search for postcards. A cat on a mat, this kitten would welcome me.
I thought of Anikka when I saw this scene as she loves cats. Amir is another CouchSurfing host whom I sent a request to, but he didn't notice it until today. He offered to drive me around a bit and then get coffee and shwarma. Petrol in Kuwait is very cheap, so it's not as expensive as in many other countries to be driven around. Amir would make a couple of phone calls regarding postcards and help me to sign my first geocache in Kuwait. It was close to 40 degrees today and I wasn't going to walk an hour to find a geocache. At last, I found some postcards at a bookstore. In less than 24 hours, I've accomplished some of my goals in Kuwait that I like doing for each country. For the past few days my mother has been pleading with me not to go to Iran, and she even told me today that she's going to a local church to say a rosary prayer for me. When I called Sean (my brother), he said Mom called her freaking out. Anikka is also extremely concerned about the fact that I'm going. I told Sean that I sometimes find it difficult to enjoy some of these journeys because I have to deal with my mother's worrying, my father's criticism, and other people worrying and panicking. I checked in online for my flight to Tehran with Kuwait Airways and, only a short time later, got the news I didn't want to receive. My flight for tomorrow was cancelled! My guide, Ramin, even sent me a message earlier today that he'd be at the airport to meet me tomorrow morning. Last week, Iran fired missiles at Israel, and the latter has been vowing to respond. Since Iran is expecting retaliation, some but not all airlines have cancelled flights to and from Iran. Considering my options whilst chatting to Amir over coffee, I searched for other options to fly to Iran, but Ramin informed me a short time later that they've cancelled everyone's tours for the time being as a safety precaution. This hurts. This really hurts! It feels like being about to win the NBA championship and having been in control for 47 minutes of the game, only to have the opposing team come all the way back and beat me on a last-second shot. Of course I'd be gracious in defeat but I'd also be hurting a great deal inside. What makes this matter even more difficult is that the entire trip is booked and paid for, including a flight to Ankara on the other end of the trip. This is why I don't like making plans too far ahead; I don't know what kind of curveball that could eventually be thrown at me. When my father had his stroke last year I had nothing planned ahead, therefore I didn't have to go through the rigmarole of cancelling flights, tours, hostel bookings, etc. On this journey I also brought my Antarctic parka and mountaineering boots, which I likely won't need anywhere else in the Middle East.
Tonight I really wanted to cry. Iran has eluded me three times now. Altering travel plans is nothing new, and I have other options. A door has closed (for now) but others have opened, and Taufeeq said I'm welcome to stay at his home for a few extra days whilst I make other plans. He works the overnight shift at Starbucks, and he brought me coffee this morning.
Kuwait! Boring? Absolutely not! This year I've been to three of the (perceived) most boring countries on the planet: Kuwait, Nauru, and Tuvalu. I haven't been bored at all in any of them. Iran being cancelled is a minor setback, but I'm enjoying travelling "Kuwait Style."
