This may sound like I'm insane, but I'm in Ukraine. The war in Ukraine has been going on for more than two years but I've been here two days and you'd never believe that there was a war at all as I stroll around Lviv. Getting through the border was a bit of a slog yesterday as I couldn't walk across. I had to link up with a vehicle, so a truck driver allowed me to come with him. As I was leaving, the Polish official asked if I was a soldier. The truckie wasn't going to Lviv, and I had to get there because there's a curfew from midnight to 5 AM. The Ukrainian official placed the stamp on the last page on my passport as if other countries might fear the fact that I went to Ukraine. A local named Andrei spoke some English and he agreed to let me go with him to Lviv. At 11 PM I was safe and sound at the Dream Hostel. The receptionist first pointed the location of a bunker if we hear an air siren. As there are currently no flights into or out of Ukraine, any plane flying nearby will invariably be a Russian or Ukrainian war plane. There are plenty of travellers in Ukraine currently, as I met at least one other American, two French guys, and even several Ukrainian backpackers.
This morning as I scoped out coffee and a SIM card, I stopped at the beautiful Lviv Theatre of Opera and Ballet.
I needed something iconic to show that I fearlessly visited Ukraine during the war. Here you see a monument to Ukrainian writer and poet, Taras Shevchenko.
Before checking out of the hostel today I asked the receptionist to write "I love you" in Ukrainian, which is "ya lyublyu tebe." It's part of a story I'm writing for Anikka.
Unsurprisingly, there are't too many geocaches in Ukraine but as I was searching for virtual cache I found a sculpture of practically everything I carry whilst on the road.
I would call in for lunch at for pizza and a couple glasses of wine. All of a sudden I heard a loud boom. The chef got a laugh when I freaked out for a second but it turned out to be a bolt of lightning. When I see and hear other people jump up and run for cover, then I know it's time to worry.
Most of the war is going on in the eastern part of Ukraine and I wouldn't even think of going there, but life is going on as normal here in Lviv. People are going to work, out to lunch and dinner, playing music and going about their normal, daily lives. The Dream Hostel was fully booked last night. As I walked through a park today there were boys skateboarding and playing basketball and girls on their mobile phones. Place a blindfold on me and I'd think I'm back in Melbourne as there are plenty of buskers out doing everything from playing the violin to drawing caricatures to entertaining children with bubbles.
Lviv has many ornate cathedrals with some spectacular ceilings. Here you see the ceiling of the Latin Cathedral.
When I explore I always do it until my feet nearbly bleed, and I did so again today. Tonight I'm staying with a CouchSurfing host named Mariia and her friend Katya (Katie). Their friend, Evelina, is the sweetest.
She gave me the warmest hug before leaving today and thanked me for visiting Ukraine. Despite having sore feet I wanted to go on one more walk but Mariia would remind me to be back by the midnight curfew. This fountain looks like a series of ghosts.
In all I had a great day on my first full day in Ukraine. When I encounter full backpacker hostels, locals relaxing in the park, colourful monuments, a delicious lunch with a happy chef, and lovely ladies like Mariia, Katya, and Evelina, I have to ask myself: what war?
