It looks like a creature struggling to be accepted but reaching out and asking for a hug or a handshake; that's what Angola is shaped like. It is one of my favourite country shapes. "Why would you want to go to Angola?" one may wonder. Firstly, it's part of my quest to reach every country, and secondly, whilst many countries have thick travel guides with scores of places to see, things to do, and places to stay and eat. Angola is one of those countries that is ripe for adventure. It doesn't even have its own Lonely Planet guide! The country's name is derived from the title ngola held by the kings of Ndongo and Matamba. Like many countries in Africa, Angola has a long and tragic history. After becoming independent from Portugal in 1975, a civil war broke out that lasted until 2002. The country is also somewhat isolated culturally and linguistically as the official language is Portuguese whilst the surrounding countries' populations speak mostly English or French.
When I entered Angola yesterday I was anticipating a lot of hassle and I was concerned about bringing Juliett (my drone) into country, but the immigration official who welcomed me was one of the most polite and professional I've ever encountered. He could tell I was exhausted after the overnight bus ride from Windhoek and told me to make myself comfortable and even let me borrow his wifi hotspot. He had to make a copy of my passport and attach a visa sticker that takes up a whole page. The currency of Angola is the kwanza, and I had to pay Kz36,600 (about US$52) for the visa. They didn't even go through my bags. Having a copy of my passport helped as I needed it to get a local SIM card. From there it was pure adventure. I knew I wasn't going to make it to Luanda in one day so I decided to put my thumb out. Within five minutes I was picked up by a couple who live here in Angola. Jackie, the wife, is originally from the UK, and they live in Ondjiva, about half hour north of the border. I thought about asking them if they have space in their backyard so I can pitch my tent but I wanted to make progress. Before long I was picked up by a guy heading to Xangongo, about 45 minutes from Ondjiva. An old tank on the side of the road served as a reminder of the country's sad history. Angola is also one of the most heavily landmined countries in the world. However, many areas of the country are devoid of people and as I looked out the window I saw many potential spots where I could freedom camp.
At Xangongo I encountered my first police checkpoint. The officers were confused when I was hitchhiking and offered to help arrange a vehicle for me. For Kz5000 I got a lift in a truck to Lubango. By the time I reached Lubango I was extremely tired and I thought of either pitching my tent, or biting the bullet and booking a cheap hotel. Fortunately there was an overnight bus to Luanda leaving in only a few minutes. Macon is the bus company and they're surprisingly modern, appearing like any other long-distance coach in the West.
Did I not say Angola is ripe for adventure? Locals in colourful dress hawk fruit, peanuts, dried fish, and greasy food even in the wee hours.
A cheap bottle of 250 mL red wine only costs about Kz500 (about $0.75 US). From there it was a long slog in the dark to Luanda. Angola is a big country, and the bus ride from Lubango to Luanda would take the better part of 12 or 14 hours. When the sun rose, people were still out hawking their wares.
We would pass Miradouro da Lua, which I plan to visit in the next couple of days. Finally, after two overnight journeys I was in the steamy capital of Angola. Unlike in Cape Town or Windhoek, I don't need my jumper. I had used all of the money I had exchanged at the border for the visa fee and transport to get here, so I had to change some money. A lady on the bus named Berta, and her daughter told me the bus terminal is in an unsafe area and would help get me to the airport, where I was guaranteed to change money. Most places in Angola don't accept Visa or Mastercard and many ATMs don't accept foreign cards.
Defania is my CouchSurfing host here in Luanda, and she gets a big thank you from me not just for hosting me, but for writing me a covering letter to help get my visa. Angola has rather complex visa requirements: you must submit a bank statement, international vaccine card, and a covering letter along with the usual photocopy of your passport and photo. Officially you must submit a roundtrip plane ticket as well but they waived that requirement since I was entering by land. Christo, my host in Cape Town, told me of at least two CSers who were doing big trips round Africa and bypassed Angola due to the visa requirements. Whilst they were loosened a bit a few years ago it's still a bit of a slog. I wanted to come to Angola to feel like a trail blazer and my introduction to Angola was quite an adventure, but after two overnight bus journeys I was ready for a shower and nap. However, I usually don't sleep much before my next adventure...
