A raw, unadulterated adventure it is here in Timor-Leste. Whilst not as wild as Papua New Guinea, this small country gets very few tourists and is behind in a lot of respects. From near sea level in Dili, I'm now staying in Hatabuilico at close to 2000 metres. There probably isn't a town in Australia that high. I'm glad I brought a jumper with me because it gets rather chilly at night. Getting from Dili to Maubisse the other day wasn't much drama at all but getting to Hatabuilico took quite a bit of walking and effort. As I took cover with some locals under their veranda, a big plate of food magically appeared in front of me. Wow! People are lovely out here. A lengthy walk would finally place me at the starting point of Mt. Ramelau, the highest point in Timor-Leste.
Mountains haven't been overly kind to me of late. A few weeks ago I failed at my attempt of summitting Mt. Aspiring due to my pack being too heavy. Yesterday afternoon I set out for Mt. Ramelau but I made it as far as the next village up before it started bucketing down. The weather seems to run like clockwork here: the skies are clear at night, it's sunny in the morning, and it rains in the afternoon. I'd be kicking myself for not setting out at sunrise instead, so I told myself last night that if the skies are clear I'd be going up for sunrise. Outside of Dili there are no CouchSurfers, and very few proper hotels or restaurants. Homestays are the best (and often only) option, and I'm staying with a guy named Antonio, his wife, and their two children in their humble home.
Recently I started therapy to help with depression and anxiety, and my sessions are with a therapist based in the US. I had an appointment very early this morning and I thought that gives me the perfect reason to have another attempt at Mt. Ramelau for sunrise. After my 2 AM appointment, Antonio woke up and told me he was taking a couple of people up Mt. Ramelau. The only footwear I brought with me to Timor-Leste are my thongs, but I saw a pair of trekking boots on a shelf and they fit me perfectly. Even better, a ute was taking the couple up to the upper village, meaning I didn't have to re-walk what ground I covered yesterday. Looking up, I could see it was gonna be a fair walk. Whilst not as high or as difficult as Mt. Wilhelm, Mt. Ramelau is still not a walk in the park. For much of the early part of the walk it is up concrete stairs. From there on top it was rocky and a bit muddy but there are no terribly steep or difficult sections. I made sure to bring water and a few muesli bars for the trek (as well as my torch). About 20 minutes before sunrise I could spot the summit and before long, a large statue of the Virgin Mary greeted me at the roof of Timor-Leste.
Properly known as Tatamailau, the mountain is 2,986 metres (9.797 feet) above sea level. Every year on approximately 25 March, there is a pilgrimage to the summit to honour the Virgin Mary. Even in summer it's chilly at the top, and on a clear day it's possible to see both coasts. I've now climbed the highest points in three countries: Japan, Papua New Guinea, and Timor-Leste. I'm surprised I haven't yet been up Mt. Kosciuszko, the highest point in Australia. For a half hour we all sat there, soaked up the sunrise, and snapped dozens of photos before beginning our descent.
It took me two attempts but I made it! Mt. Aspiring will take me two attempts, but next summer I'm going to make it! No question about that. After the long slog down the mountain, we all piled into the back of the ute and I was dropped off at Antonio's home whilst he went to visit his mother. A long slumber was in order after little sleep, a therapy session, and a mountain climb.
Which country high point will I climb next?
