When I came to New Zealand back in 2008, I saw in a Department of Conservation (DOC) brochure that there were nine Great Walks, and I made a goal of doing at least five. Now there are 10 Great Walks, and I've done three so far: Milford, Kepler, and Rakiura. The Routeburn is my fourth. The other night I stayed at the home of my friend Rhys, who lives in Glenorchy. We had breakfast and then he dropped me at the trailhead yesterday afternoon and it rained the whole way to Routeburn Flats Hut. Most trampers stay the first night at Routeburn Falls Hut, about an hour ahead but I called it a day due to the rain. One thing I really appreciate, especially after a long day of tramping, are freeze-dried camping meals that are so simple to prepare. Cottage pie, teriyaki chicken, roast lamb, cooked breakfast, and spaghetti bolognaise are just a few of the camping meals I've packed over the course of my walking journeys. They're lightweight and easy to make. Even when I'm not on a serious tramping journey, they're excellent for when I'm hitchhiking and forced to sleep on the side of the road with nothing around. Last night I made cottage pie and this morning I made cooked breakfast as it bucketed down heavily. Getting the fire going was really giving me fits, and it wasn't until a Chilean tramper showed up and had the magic touch. Walking the Routeburn in October is perfect because the huts are only $15 per night (who wants to camp in these conditions?), avalanche risks have largely passed, and there are far fewer crowds than during the Great Walks season.
Last night I had trouble sleeping and when I hit the snooze button on my phone it was ensured that I was going to stay awake as a helicopter came roaring in. At first I thought someone was injured but they were DOC rangers dropping supplies for the start of the Great Walks season, which begins 1 November.
The weather was much better today as I prepared my morning coffee and a cooked breakfast camping meal. Most trampers who are staying in huts will spend the first night at Routeburn Falls Hut but campers will typically stay here as it's not allowed at higher elevations. Yesterday it bucketed down but today I struck gold with the weather; it was gorgeous and sunny. The first part of today's walk was steep, and the helicopters didn't exactly allow for a peaceful communion with nature. At Routeburn Falls Hut I stopped for a rest and a few photos but the helicopters were annoying me. There are a few geocaches on the Routeburn but with no mobile coverage I couldn't search for any. With the recent rain, Routeburn Falls are spectacular!
As I approached Harris Saddle there was a little bit of snow and I wondered if I was going to have to turn around, but it was manageable when I got out my trekking pole. Crampons and an ice axe are recommended outside the Great Walks season, and whilst I have experience with both of them, I don't own a set. Two hours after I set out this morning I made it to Harris Saddle (1,255 metres above sea level) with a commanding view of Lake Harris.
Shortly thereafter, the worst possible thing that could happen happened...the sole of one of my tramping boots separated. With no glue or tape to attempt to fix it, and no string to tie it back on, I had to (essentially) walk in one boot. After trying anything I could to fix my broken boot at Harris Shelter, I pressed on. Somewhat weary I was after a couple of close calls.
The Great Walks are designed to be some of the easier tramping tracks as well as the most scenic. The Routeburn is by no means the most difficult tramping track but it's definitely one of the most beautiful. In terms of challenge, my favourite tramping track is probably the Rees-Dart, and in terms of beauty it's a close call. The Milford, Routeburn, Mason Bay, and Mt. Arthur Lookout are all amazing and spectacular. My camera battery was flat by mid-afternoon and my spare was buried deep in my bag, so I had to use my phone for the remainder of the day. A gorgeous panorama awaited...
With practically only one boot, it seemed to take forever to reach Lake Mackenzie Hut, and I was even concerned that I was on the wrong track with all the fallen trees I encountered. The fire was roaring, and it was a relief to take my boots off after today. A hut warden was present today, and he said soles detaching from boots is a very common problem. He gave me a piece of string and I was able to improvise and tie it back on to the rest of the boot. Chatting to a few other trampers in the warmth of the hut, I made some honey soy chicken and then some 2-minute noodles. Food is always tasty after a long day, and a long one it was. A cold but gorgeous view of Lake Mackenzie would greet me.
In two days on the Routeburn I've encountered only a handful of sandflies but disappointingly, I haven't seen even one kea. The world's only alpine parrot's numbers are declining, and it's exacerbated by trampers and other people getting a kick out of feeding them. A fed kea is a dead kea. Today I struck gold with the weather, so let's hope it's just as beautiful tomorrow and, after more amazing views, I will have completed my fourth Great Walk.
