Commonly just "Moresby," that’s how you spell and say Port Moresby in Tok Pisin, one of the official languages of Papua New Guinea (PNG). Home to at least 850 different languages, PNG is where I landed yesterday, with a goal of walking in the footsteps of the diggers along the famed Kokoda Track. This is my first time truly overseas since March 2020 when the pandemic took over (although I have been to Norfolk, Christmas, and Cocos (Keeling) Islands during the pandemic). PNG has a reputation, but as a “self-appointed ambassador of fearlessness” as I’ve been called, I wouldn’t allow the country’s reputation (or the media) to deter me. I’m staying with a CouchSurfing host named Onno in the village of Kila Kila in Port Moresby South. He has told me to completely disregard anything Lonely Planet states about PNG. Most people who walk the Kokoda come on expensive, organized tours that help them avoid Moresby altogether, but I don’t understand why, since I've been here for a day and a half, I don’t think it’s all that bad. The city certainly won’t knock your socks off like London, Tokyo, or Melbourne, but it’s a good place to get your bearings and I've had many waves and smiles both yesterday and today. Onno works at the Australian High Commission, and his parents would take me for a drive. The Parliament Haus is one of the city's few standout attractions but it's currently closed to the public due to upcoming elections. Onno would later tell me that, even by PNG standards, I picked a contentious time to visit the country. At an election rally were locals from the Highlands in traditional dress, and I just had to stop for a few photos.
People from all over the country come to live in Moresby, even though it's probably the world's only capital that's not connected to the rest of the country. Getting to most other places involves flying, long boat rides, or days of walking. Onno's parents were going to drop me at the National Museum and Art Gallery but it was closed for the remainder of the day due to a plumbing issue. I then thought I must get moving regarding the Kokoda Track as it's recommended to walk it in nine days and I'm only in PNG for 14 days.
Organized treks on the Kokoda booked in Australia cost at least $3,500 and can cost considerably more, and if you get to PNG they can be much cheaper. My goal is to walk the track independently, so I stocked up on a lot of stuff in Australia before coming here: a solar-powered charger, pack liner, water purification tablets, waterproof match holder, and a dozen different types of camping meals. After signing my first (and probably only) geocache in PNG, I got to the Kokoda Track Authority where I could get the permit. I was shocked when they told me I had to go through a registered tour operator. Onno’s family is from the area, and he was going to ask a family member if they’d like to accompany me on the track but the KTA is firm that I have to walk with a registered tour operator. Several years ago, a young couple came to PNG to walk the Kokoda, and a few days later, they radioed for help claiming they were raped and attacked by cannibals. Two boys under 18 were at risk for the death penalty, and the couple left the KTA with a massive bill after the couple were airlifted out and then took off back to Australia. The manager was able to refer me to a guide quickly, and he offered me the local rate; if you book in Australia, he charges $3,350 but if you book in PNG, it’s about $1,200. I was in a real dilemma because I couldn't pay with my credit card and I couldn't withdraw that much cash from an ATM.
Although by no means Manhattan, Moresby has most things you can find in a capital city: glittering shopping malls, flashy cars, markets, embassies, and so forth. I took the plunge and decided to walk from the KTA to Vision City Shopping Centre (called "VC" by locals). PNG's flag is one of my favourites, and so I got a jersey with the bird of paradise across the front. Onno advised me not to bring my camera with me today, and I took PMVs back to Kila Kila before it got dark. Betel nut is commonly chewed in PNG, and the red spots I see all around are betel nut spit, not blood.
Some of Onno's friends and I would hit the local "pub" for a few beers, and it's a novelty being the only foreign face in the crowd. For now, as I sip an SP Lager, Kokoda is in serious jeopardy but I wouldn't be surprised if I'm able to work some magic once again.
