My big journey from Adelaide to Tiaro has officially begun. Anikka and her mum didn't wake up until early afternoon a few days ago, and I couldn't just pack up my gear and leave without saying "I'll see you soon" to the greatest lady in the world. In Adelaide I armed myself with a brand new leather Akubra hat, water canteen, and, after all these years, a new travel bag. My old rucksack lasted 10 years and as I got ready to throw it in the bin, Anikka asked me if she could keep it. She said "waste not, want not" and I said "that bag travelled with me to all seven continents, so you'll always have a part of me there." We'd get the nicest photo before I left. I'm not surprised. Beautiful is she!
As the bus came, I gave Anikka a warm hug and told her I'll see her soon.
Anikka has a promise from me that I will always love her and treat her nicely. I'm extremely happy with where we stand as friends, as she is too special to not have in my life. Getting from Adelaide to Port Augusta was little drama. I'd have a bizarre run-in with the police in "Port Gutter" as many locals call it. It turned out I was geocaching just outside of one of the largest prisons in the country. When I told them I was planning to head back to the service station they gave me a lift. After a few pies I'd end up pitching my tent just behind the servo. The next morning I was picked up by a guy who admitted he's a former inmate at the local prison. He'd drop me in the dusty town of Wilmington (and I'm sure it's a far cry from Delaware) and that's as far as I'd get.
I waited several hours at a turnoff only to end up walking back into town. When I called Jo she suggested ordering a counter meal and a glass of wine at the pub so I did just that, getting fish and chips. After some conversation with the barman, he allowed me to pitch my tent outside and let me have a shower. The meal was nothing to write home about but I can't complain when the barman put me up for the evening. It was rather chilly the other night...
Determined to make progress, I packed up early, got a coffee, and was on the road. My luck would run dry again as I'd only get one lift the entire day and I'd make it as far as Peterborough, only 88 km away. Port Augusta to Wilmington was only 42 km so at this rate it could have taken me several weeks to get to Tiaro. Fish and chips in Peterborough were twice as good and half the price as those in Wilmington. It was extremely cold last night...only about 3 degrees. I decided to bite the bullet and book accommodation above the pub. At only $40 it's a real bargain, and I'm sure there are some interesting options in some of these dusty Outback towns.
I nearly forgot my brand new Akubra hat as I checked out of the pub acccommodation this morning. With my morning coffee I was hoping I'd get a solid distance today but I couldn't leave without checking out a few interesting sights whilst snapping a few photos.
My original plan was to travel a route that I'd yet to do but trip to Norfolk Island is in less than two weeks. Getting a lift out of Peterborough would take awhile and by early afternoon I had only made it a short distance to a turnoff leading to Broken Hill. There is absolutely nothing out here!
Eventually I'd end up in Yunta. With only a couple of servos you could hardly call it a town. A member of the Australian army pulled up to fill up and, whilst he said he wanted to give me a lift, it was against regulations. In three days I'd only travelled 215 km. Finally I'd get a good lift at about 6 PM last night...in one of the most ominous vehicles you could possibly get a lift in. The bloke who picked me up is a mortician...driving a refrigerated hearse! My bags were in the back where human bodies are normally. However, I was just happy that I finally was on my way to Broken Hill. I very nearly doubled my progress from the last three days in only two hours. After that, I was on the side of the road again.
This morning I'd make my morning coffee on the side of the road with my camping stove. I'm well stocked with camping food and instant coffee, and it's been helpful on this journey. Five minutes after I got out to the side of the road with my thumb out, the police pulled up. They said they received a call that I tried to jump in front of a vehicle to get it to stop, but only two vehicles had passed and I would have no reason to get desperate. Four officers were there and they examined my passport saying "you have five consecutive years of travel here, how do you fund it?" I explained how I'm a freelance writer and that I'm going to be the main subject of Fearless Journey. In the end, all was alright, but it's my second run-in with the police on this journey. One short lift would get me to a rest area about 5 km up the road, and traffic was very light.
My trip to Norfolk is in only eight days, and the next train from Broken Hill to Sydney isn't for a couple of days. I decided that if I'm still here then, I'm taking the train to Sydney. I'm not concerned about the coastal corridor because I know I can get lifts along that route. I'd be stuck for the entire day at the rest area. A lovely elderly couple asked me "how do you like your coffee?" as they invited me into their caravan. A "palace on wheels" it was, with a toilet, shower, and running water. We had some great conversations before getting back out there with my thumb out. A vain attempt it was, and then I was invited for some kangaroo steak whilst I heated up a camping meal of lamb and vegetables. Traffic was extremely light all day and I didn't feel like pitching my tent again, so I rolled out my sleeping mat beneath the picnic table covering and fell asleep to the feeling of a million stars and the sound of the crickets of the Aussie bush. True blue Aussie spirit!
My fortunes would change however, as I met the Australian Bushman...
