Ushuaia is often billed as being at the end of the world, although the nearest I've actually felt to the end of the world is probably either West Falkland or the coast of Somaliland.
Early this morning, I arrived bleary-eyed in Ushuaia, billed as the world's southernmost city (though Puerto Williams, Chile could make the same claim). Ushuaia takes advantage of its end-of-the-world status with gusto, boasting a dramatic setting of snow-capped mountains and a fine harbour. As I arrived at his apartment, Paulo, my CS host, had already left for work and he worked at the Tren del Fin del Mundo (Train of the end of the world) a fair distance away. Fortunately, he had a friend drop the keys and I at least got a bit of sleep. Though I was exhausted, I had a fair bit of work to do, and that's someway, somehow, to get to Antarctica. Ushuaia's streets are steep and exerting, akin to San Francisco or St. John's.
Upon getting my passport stamped with an Ushuaia stamp at the tourism office, I was referred to a place that sounded vaguely familiar. When I walked into the office of Freestyle Adventure Travel, I was quickly greeted by the manager, Sarah, who is from North Carolina. She's been living here for the past eight years with her husband, Gabriel. On the desk there were several departures listed and I hoped I could bargain down a bit. Before I arrived I expected to pay around $5,000, although Elie told me he's heard of people going for as little as $2,000. I could see a departure for a 9-day trip for $5,500 that's a Chinese charter. It has a Chinese chef on board but it's only 9 days and I feel I'd have few people to really talk to due to the language barrier. Below that I noticed a trip including the Falklands and South Georgia for $8,200; if I chose that one I'd have another opportunity to meet up with Mario and Sharon. My heart would be set on a journey that would have 5 full days in Antarctica. With my mind at ease, I walked around and pondered, searched round for a place to eat, and hunted for a few geocaches. Whilst refreshing that there's no golden arches or KFCs, music fans will rejoice at going to the world's southernmost Hard Rock Cafe.
There are a number of operators in town offering last-minute journeys but it seems Freestyle is the most popular. For at least the next couple of days or so I'll be in Ushuaia doing my best to get to my last remaining continent.
