Shiralee told me yesterday that, if I’ve never flown on a Falkland Islands Government Air Service (FIGAS) plane, I’m in for a treat. This morning I woke up rather late after a terrible dream, and when I noticed how gloomy and dull it was, I wondered if the plane would even operate today. With my morning coffee in my system, Shiralee would pick me up and then we’d be up and down the runway in her vehicle whilst she chased away geese (other birds aren’t an issue on the runway). Founded in 1948, FIGAS was originally used as an air ambulance and mail courier, but the airline evolved into carrying passengers and sometimes even livestock (I'm not sure what it'd be like sharing a plane with a sheep, chicken, or a pig). There are practically no ferries in the Falklands, and FIGAS is the only easy way to the outer islands. The FIGAS fleet are robust to deal with the notoriously turbulent weather, and flights are rarely cancelled as they would be elsewhere due to rain or strong winds.
Shiralee put the windsock up and then turned on the radio. With FIGAS, there are no security checks, paved runways, free coffee, or in-flight entertainment. It’s old school: a dirt runway with only a tin shed and a local with a two-way radio. At 9 AM, the plane landed.
Dan is the pilot, and we had to do stops in Chartres, Carcass Island, Pebble Island, Port Howard, and then Stanley. What an experience this is! Last week I baulked at having to spend the extra money but after today I’ll have experienced both forms of transport in getting to and from West Falkland. After giving Shiralee a hug goodbye and thanking her for her hospitality, Dan flew nice and low: perfect for photos. A 10-year-old girl named Abigail is on her first solo flight today. She was nervous about sitting in the copilot’s seat after Dan talked about the weight distribution. We flew between 100 and 200 feet most of the time, and this runaround to the outer islands made for some great photos today.
We had to pick up another couple in Carcass Island who were going to Port Howard, so they sat in the third row whilst Abigail sat in the second row. She was really nervous after a few bumps on the way to Pebble Island, and since we had to pick up a couple in Pebble Island, Dan asked if I’d sit in the fourth row of the 8-seater plane so he wouldn’t have to shove Abigail all the way in the back. That meant not as good (but still good) photos. In a bit of consolation, I was able to grab one of Pebble Island’s dozen geocaches even though this particular cache was rusted shut. Many of the runways in camp aren't flat; in Port Howard, it's shaped a bit like a roller coaster. After dropping off a couple we picked up in Carcass Island, we were Stanley-bound with some magical photos to boot.
What I planned on being only about four or five days in camp turned into 10 days, and I really enjoyed this quintessential Falkland Islands experience with warm hospitality to go with it. At around noon, we landed at Stanley Airport. You may wonder why the international airport is so far away from Stanley, but before the war there was no airport at all in the Falklands. The UK established a military base and didn't want residents of Stanley to be bombarded by the military presence.
In the end, the FIGAS flight at ₤67 was well worth the money and a definite Falkland experience. Tonight I’d be invited to dinner at the home of Mario and Sharon Zuvic: a lovely couple whom I met on the plane from Punta Arenas. Mario is a drone enthuiast and jokes about how the Mavic must be a portmanteau of his name. The Falklands are probably the only place outside of the American east coast where dinner is called "supper," and it'd be a delicious feast of bread, salad, peas, lasagna, and crème puffs topped with chocolate sauce, all served in French fashion with each portion served separately. Their friends Mark and Chris were invited as well, and after a few glasses of wine, I was invited to stay at Mark’s home. He works in the control tower at Stanley Airport and lives in a fairly sizable home for a bachelor. Mark is probably the only Falkland Islander who has been to North Korea.
After today, I've experienced close to all aspects of Falklands life. I sure love it here!
