It's the beginning of March, and I've been in Ethiopia for an entire month now! Certainly it's been an experience of a lifetime, and today I have another crazy adventure to add to the "Farrell Chronicles." Yesterday I visited Bet Giyorgis and the Northern group of churches with the ticket I got from the German guys the other day. Today I made my way to the Southern group: the last group of churches. Up a narrow path I had to go and then through a dark tunnel I emerged in front of a church and had to climb up a set of stairs. When I showed the ticket I expected him to hand it right back to me but said "it says 'long hair'" but I told him I cut my hair a couple of days ago. Everything on the ticket is in Amharic so I can't even read what it says. I was upset and these French guys tried to stand up for me saying "I could have cut my hair" and then asked my name and I said "Roman" (the name on the ticket). The attendant stuck the ticket in his front pocket and after I was upset and him threatening me with "we're going to the ticket office." A monk then pulled out a cell phone and threatened to call the police, so I figured that's when I had to make my move. I had to hurriedly make my way back out through the dark tunnel, using my camera as my only light source, but then I took a wrong turn and was trapped on a ridge. Hoping I would just be left alone I crouched down in the bush and then another man saw me and I felt trapped. Like a cornered rat, I felt like "I cannot experience the inside of an Ethiopian jail cell" and I knew I had to act fast, and mentally claw and fight back, and then find my way out. When another guy said something in Amharic I tried asking where the exit was and he pointed for me to sit on a rock next to him but I brushed him off and then figured out the way I came in. As long as nobody touched me or physically restrained me, I'd figure out my exit strategy. I made my way down the rock path, almost running and then the guy was yelling something in Amharic to another local. Then when that person gestured that I was being called I just ignored him, but it seemed a heap of people were staring at me. My smarts saved me when I took the shortcut I walked yesterday and earlier today; one that only locals would know and bypasses the ticket office. Out of breath, hot, and dehydrated, I sipped what little water I had whilst hurriedly and confidently walking toward Daniel's tukol. Unsure of who might've been behind me I kept watching my back, still fearful someone would be after me. For a second I was thinking to duck into one of these homes and sit toward the back and have a coffee but I figured my best bet is to get my ass back to Daniel's pad. I made my way up the hill, into the tukol, and then deadbolted the door shut! As I said yesterday, it was not my intention to cheat like I did but I really had no other option. If the banks would change traveller's cheques in the most popular town in Ethiopia then it wouldn't be a problem. It would take too much time and too much effort to go all the way back to Addis, exchange traveller's cheques and then come back, and it would be too much to ask my father or a friend to wire me $50; morally I just couldn't do that. Daniel came home about an hour later and he was worried that he could get in major trouble for the whole ordeal, but it's not his fault. In the safety of Daniel's property I suddenly got the worst headache ever! It was a headache so bad I wouldn't wish it upon my worst enemy; it felt like I was slammed in the head with a hammer. Seriously, I thought I was coming down with malaria. For nearly three hours I lay in the tent, but when my headache subsided a bit Daniel was talking to me. I explained to him that what happened isn't his problem, it's mine. My head is still bothering me tonight, and if it doesn't subside I may have to stay in Lalibela another night, but I really want to make a move toward Addis. Today was a headache, literally and figuratively. After sitting inside for more than two hours I was ready for a shower. Daniel's friend walked with me through town and took me to a place where I could have a cold shower. My head bothered me for a good part of the day, but maybe it's karma for cheating. Ah well, I was cornered today and I fought and clawed my way out. Another amazing adventure to add to my travel collection.
