It's the symbol of Lalibela, if not Ethiopia. The Church of St. George (Bet Giyorgis) is the most striking of Lalibela's rock-hewn churches. Shaped like an "X" or a Greek cross, it is carved from solid rock and it's in a trench on its own away from the rest of the churches. Thanks to some good luck and good advice I'm fortunate to be here. As I mentioned yesterday, admission to the churches (even to the exterior) is a flat $50; very steep by Ethiopian standards, and that's considering admission to Gondar Castle is little more than $5 and the Simiens are $5 per day, and both are just about as spectacular! The two German CSers left this morning and they sold me their ticket for 150 birr ($8). They advised me to go to what I call the "X-rock" first just in case I got caught with someone else's ticket. Usually I would save the best for last but it was time I do the opposite. I don't like to cheat in situations like this but I have about $30 to my name until I get back to Addis and it's too long of a trip to go all the way back and then come back to Lalibela, so I really had no choice. As I walked up the hill I was so awestruck by the rock church that I nearly took an ugly tumble on a rock when I was asked for my ticket. With a quick glance, the guy let me through and I tucked it safely back into my Lonely Planet guide. Coming here earlier I discovered a shortcut that only locals would know so I'm able to bypass the ticket office entirely. Built during the Zagwe dynasty more than 800 years ago, Bet Giyorgis was the last of the churches to be built. King Lalibela received a visit from Ethiopia's patron saint, George, who was shocked that none of the churches were dedicated to him. The end result was Lalibela's masterpiece, and like no other building I've ever seen! For several minutes I wasn't even focused on finding my way to the church entrance; instead I sat with my feet hanging over the trench as I admired this rare beauty!
Ethiopian Orthodox pilgrims travel from all over the country to visit Bet Giyorgis, and it's still an active house of worship. I took my time getting to Lalibela, and I'm glad I did as I've never seen a place like it. The rigours of travelling around Northern Ethiopia make Lalibela very rewarding. Going down the very narrow trench I'm able to place my hands on the solid rock of Bet Giyorgis, and with a light tap using my knuckles I could tell it's not hollow. These churches are often compared to Petra (Jordan) but the main difference is that these churches were carved and then freed entirely from the rock. The interior of the church isn't that large and red carpeting covers parts of the floor. An old, barefoot monk posed for me for a small tip. There are cavities in the trench walls, and seeing shriveled up feet complete with toenails these are mummified corpses in there!! All the other churches have scaffolding built over them by Unesco but Bet Giyorgis is so well preserved that it's not necessary, not to mention that it would be a major eyesore. After walking back up to ground level I sat there for a long while, and another monk approached me for a photo.
I was told to be careful hanging over the trench, but I know what I'm doing! It was hard to be totally still though. Beggars aren't as bad in Lalibela as they are in many other parts of Ethiopia but what's really a nuisance are flies! Constantly I have to wave my arm like "Shoofly don't bother me" like the song you sing as a child. Bet Giyorgis can be photographed in many different angles.
It would have been very easy to spend all day here but the heat and the flies got the best of me. After I visit the rest of the churches I'll come back here one final time to take in the splendour.
Bet Giyorgis, Church of St. George, or the X-rock. Whatever you want to call it, it's a symbol of Ethiopia and I dare you to try to find another place like it!
