A journey around Ethiopia can really take its toll; physically, emotionally, mentally, psychologically, and socially. From filthy bathrooms to restaurants with half of what's on the menu not available, someone not understanding you at all to someone hassling or hustling you, getting your nails and feet dirty to getting all bit up by mosquitoes. Ah yea, Ethiopia does it all with a lot of positives in between. After the rigours of the Ethiopian road there comes a calm place within in which to chill out, put your feet up, and recharge your batteries, and that place is Mek'ele. The name is as interesting as it is rhythmic. As my bus made several hairpin turns down into a landscape that looks like something out of a shoot-em-up Western film, we suddenly pass a camel caravan and then off in the distance I see another unexpected sight: wind turbines. Perhaps Ethiopia is taking a step in the right direction energy-wise. The CouchSurfers I would stay with are French guys working on these giant windmills. As I got off the bus I wasn't met with the kind of hassle I encountered in Gondar or Axum. And since it wasn't too hot I walked toward the main street where I went online for a bit. As a university town there's a plethora of internet cafes charging roughly 10 birr ($0.55) per hour, and with that it makes a great place to kick back, upload photos, chat with friends across the globe, and chill for a few days. I'm filthy and half of my clothes are dirty, and I've spent so much time on buses that my butt is starting to hurt! My lips are badly chapped as well. As I called in at the Axum Hotel (yes, from Axum to the Axum Hotel) I called Florian, my French CouchSurfer. After storing my bag I strolled in search of a new toothbrush because mine fell out on the bus earlier. As I waited for Adrian, Florian's flatmate, I encountered something else I've seen as much as beggars and hustlers: Peace Corps volunteers. Scott, Jessie, and Becca are all volunteers and they all know Lizzie. Chatting with them for awhile I search around for a bit to eat, and then I discover the brand new XO Restaurant.
With a glance at what's on offer I feel like it's located in San Francisco or Seattle rather than in Ethiopia. With tasty pizza, shish kebabs, and veggie burgers on the menu it's an escape if you've had your fill of tibs and injera. When I met up with Adrien and Florian they were up for a bit to eat, and we went to this place called Karibu. Again, another eating oasis in a sea of Ethiopian food. Oddly, I haven't even seen a Chinese restaurant in Ethiopia! Feasting on wood-fired pizza I was full after a long day. I was up for tej but we couldn't find any. As popular as tej is in Ethiopia it's tricky to find.
A few days later I would wander a market where I'd spot everything for sale from mattresses, Turkish flags, packaged noodles, shoes, Ethiopian food, and (much to my surprise) tej.
The flask that tej is drunk from is called a barille. Even though it was rather early in the day I was up for some intoxicating honey wine as I feasted on some gomen (collard greens). Mek'ele's most striking symbol is the Martyrs' Memorial, which looks more like a giant golf ball on a tee rather than a monument.
As I laze on the grass hiding from the sun I absorb the atmosphere and realize, despite the challenges, that it's an amazing feeling being in Ethiopia. I stayed for almost a full week in Mek'ele having some good food and resting my road-weary bones; it was one of those times I didn't care to run around and visit monuments and museums, but instead needed to revitalize and ready myself for the next leg of my journey!
Mek'ele is a great place for the food- or travel-weary. It gets very windy at night but it's not too cold and there are few mosquitoes. All in all, it's one of my favourite cities in Ethiopia.
