When you hear "The Far East" it immediately conjures up images. Prototypically it's Shanghai or Tokyo, or to the more adventurous it could be Vietnam or even Mongolia. Whilst I'm half an ocean away from Asia, today I went to Liku, the village and sea track at the far eastern end of Niue. Though it's only 10 km and a short drive away from Alofi, it really feels a world apart! This morning I woke up, having my usual cuppa and bowl of Weet-Bix. I've been along the west coast from top to bottom I hadn't been to the east coast yet so that was my plan for today. Ira advised me to carry plenty of water with me, so I packed two bottles with my snorkelling gear and some snacks. After holding out my thumb I was squeezed into a car with four people, driving down the road that slices across the centre of the island cutting it virtually in half. Liku really is a world away from Alofi! There's a church, a rugby field, and several homes (some abandoned). There are no stores, petrol stations, restaurants, hotels, government offices, or police stations. Traffic is virtually nonexistent. Don't take the warning lightly: expect long waits for a lift and bring plenty of food and water with you! A local invited me in for a glass of water before I made my way down a trail to Liku Sea Track and Cave. I'd felt like I finally stepped into paradise! Crystal clear water, holes dotting the makatea and a spectacular limestone ridge with the odd bit of greenery.
Setting down my bag and taking off my shoes, I stepped into the jacuzzi-warm water and gazed in awe! It's breathtaking! Not a speck of land exists directly east between here and Chile. Just when I thought Niue had no beaches, there are these tiny "beaches" in several alcoves. Almost nobody walks down this way and even if they did you're unlikely to be seen.
This is perhaps the perfect place to fulfill that "sex on the beach" fantasy you've always dreamed of. You could make love and not be seen all day, all week, or all month. Though I shouldn't blurt that out too loud; maybe I would like to come back with a special lady and make love beneath a magical South Pacific sunset, with the sand beneath our bodies, the only sound a light churning of waves, and the only eyes watching are whatever crab, fish, or bird passes by. Sounds erotic and exotic, all at once! However, I'm just in a fantasy-land. As I sit for a snack on the steps leading to the sea, some crabs gaze at me like "who are you?"
These aren't the legendary uga; they're much too small. Eyes directed east, I just munched on Ched's crackers and sipped some water as I sat in awe. After spending several hours in and around Liku I tried to get a lift to Vaikona Chasm but only two cars passed by in an hour and one of them, incredibly, didn't stop for me. In a brand-new car shipped in from NZ I was back in Alofi, with another Niuean experience to share. I've made it to "Niue's Far East" and back in a day.
