Last night I finally got a good amount of sleep! Well rested I wanted to visit some interesting sites today. Asking around, I found out about Saqsaywaman; it sounds like "sexy woman" to the untrained ear. When I set out I inquired about a tour to Puerto Maldonado and the Amazon. It would cost about $180 but I might do it because I've always wanted to visit the Amazon rainforests. The flights would be about $75 each way, so the whole thing would cost upwards of $400. If I had a lot more time I could go by land but it takes several days by truck. I walked across the Plaza de Armas and then up these streets made of stone. I wonder if the Incas built them. One street was very steep and I noticed that I have to catch my breath more often. Some children suddenly appeared, colourfully dressed with their llamas. I had to pay them each 1 sol.
Don't automatically discredit people who ask for tips to pose, as these may be your best photo opportunity. At the top of the street I could see all of Cuzco! I snapped a few photos before heading up further. At the entrance to Saqsaywaman I was told I had to buy a tourist ticket for visits of 16 sites. Really upset as a result, a tout then approached me offering a horseback tour of Zona X and Temple de la Luna for 20 soles. I agreed on the price and it was really my first time on a horse (once in Arizona I rode in a circle for a minute). It rained a bit and I felt like I was riding through a mystic forest. Temple de la Luna isn't a "temple" in the traditional sense but a rock formation. It's a sacred site though. I spent a few minutes before we started walking back, buying a pennant with a symbol for each day of the week and month of the year: my first souvenir on this journey. Mounting my horse I then when to Zona X. My guide had the horse gallop a wee bit. Zona X has a system of tunnels which are quite spectacular. Then I rode back to the stall, having to walk through a pile of shit (whilst being careful not to fall). The guide pointed out Saqsaywaman a few hundred metres ahead and told me I could sneak in, so I did just that! It is so spectacular! I wonder how it was built because each of the rocks have to weigh at least several tons apiece. I kept walking through, admiring the site; I feel like I could have stayed here forever. With these Argentine girls I got a photo in the doorway.
"Saqsaywaman" doesn't mean "sexy woman" but comes from a Quechua word meaning "satisfied falcon." Only about 20% of the original site still remains. I spent over a half hour and it was money well spent! Instead of $20 or so for the tourist ticket I spent only $6 for the horseback ride. As an afternoon treat I got a massage and lunch at Bembo's. Their hamburgers are very good. For dinner I wanted pizza but I couldn't find a good place, so then I discovered alpaca steak on a menu. Alpaca steak, french fries, vegetables, and a cup of hot chocolate were only about $8 whilst musicians serenaded us at our tables.
Chatting with a couple from England they told me they didn't start their travels until they were 40 (and I thought I started late). I feel like I'm getting sick again, but I'm starting the Inca Trail tomorrow. This is no time to get sick! Tonight I listened to Louis Armstrong's "What a Wonderful World." I'm sunburnt and getting sick, but tomorrow is the start of something special! Today was something to write home about, about how Saqsaywaman doesn't mean "sexy woman" but maybe she was a sexy woman, once upon a time.
