Riyadh may be the only city in the world where I can't simply rely on a combination of public transport, a bicycle, and my own two feet. The capital of the Kingdom (KSA) sprawls for many kilometres across the desert and is a car-oriented city. This morning I woke up mad at myself that I couldn't figure out a bus into the city centre yesterday but it was time to bite the bullet and use Uber, at least some of the way. Some cities, like Paris or Barcelona have been on every traveller's list for many decades or even centuries whilst Rome and Jerusalem have been attracting travellers for thousands of years. Riyadh is another kettle of fish, as it has been open for just a few years.
In the searing heat, I got my morning cuppa at Starbucks and then booked an Uber to Diriyah. Regarded as the birthplace of modern Saudi Arabia, Diriyah was the original home of the Saudi royal family. The district of At-Turaif consists of many mudbrick buildings and Salwa Palace.
Built in 1766 by Imam Abdul Aziz ibn Muhammad ibn Saud, it was the headquarters of the first Saudi state. During the heat of the day, tickets are free. Before I even went inside I chatted with a Canadian lady named Jane. She has been to 88 countries and all seven continents. Such a fascinating place to wander, knowing that few travellers have visited Salwa Palace. Like in Angola, I feel like a pioneer traveller in Saudi Arabia, even though people have been travelling by camel through the Arabian Desert for thousands of years, and how before there were tourists there were business travellers.
I would go "tower nuts" as I booked an Uber to Al Faisaliah Tower, which looks like a boat standing on end.
For 69 riyals I went up into the tower. Disappointingly, the glass panels were dirty. A group of Dutch travellers came up and then I had a clever idea. A guy had his girlfriend get on his shoulders, and then I handed her my phone to get some photos above the glass panels. The Kingdom Tower is Riyadh's most iconic landmark.
Although it appears close, it is more than three kilometres away from Al Faisaliah Tower. Despite the distance, I walked to the Kingdom Tower. It's the world's third tallest building with a hole, and above the hole is the Sky Bridge. I already did one tower, so it was time for another tower. With my wallet another 69 riyals lighter, I had the bright purple lights around me and only air just a few metres below me. It looks like the interior of a flying saucer.
Riyadh looks spectacular at night, with lights all the way past the horizon. With excitement I called my mother just so I could show her the view.
Not wanting to get home too late, I decided I wasn't booking an Uber. I was gonna travel my way and figure out public transport all the way home. I had to wait a bit, change buses twice, and then walk the rest of the way home. It took nearly two hours to get from Kingdom Tower to Ahmed's home but, I did it. I mastered it. After today I'm much happier that I've mastered public transport in a city that has very little of it. Upon exiting the bus I sat down for a well deserved dinner of shwarma and kebabs and a cup of tea, content that in two days I haven't just figured out my way around Riyadh but mastered it.
