It appears I have two extra days here on Nauru, as my flight was pushed back by two days. Whilst I'm happy about the extra time here, I'm looking forward to this Pacific journey coming to a conclusion. I'm pretty banged up already and I was itching intensely the other night from a combination of mosquitoes and other things. Lillie, whom I met the other day, advised me to firmly ask Nauru Airlines for hotel and food vouchers as they're obligated to help me when a flight is postponed or cancelled due to an airline issue. I'm so not used to hotels that I tend to not think of them as an option even if the cost isn't coming out of my own pocket. I must get better at that because it could mean a similar experience to staying at the Arakur in Ushuaia back in '17 (I was put up there by the expedition company due to being mucked around). The Menen Hotel is one of only two proper hotels on the island, and for two nights I'll rest up before my second attempt at Mt. Aspiring. I'm sure looking forward to come cooler climes in New Zealand. Last night I had dinner of kung pao chicken at the hotel at the expense of Nauru Airlines. The food at the hotel restaurant is pretty ordinary but you can't come to Nauru and expect Michelin-starred cuisine.
Maruan's father offered to take me up Topside today. Before coming to Nauru I had the idea that it was similar to Tuvalu in that there was the risk of it going under but the central area is quite raised. Looking something like a "moonscape with vegetation," Nauru's interior is largely a barren wasteland after decades of phosphate mining.
Rain and wind thrashed relentlessly for much of the day but at least it kept temperatures down. With the exception of in Buada District, almost nobody lives in Topside as the landscape is inhospitable. There are three detention centres and what is left of the phosphate industry.
It's my final full day in Nauru after these extra days. Dinner at the hotel would have taken a lot longer than normal as it's common for locals to order trays of food for birthday parties, family gatherings, etc. and they had a lot of orders tonight so I was given a voucher to use at the Bay Restaurant. With pizza and a nonalcoholic fruit punch I chatted to Tayla.
Just before I arrived was the Pacific Pageant competition and I told Tayla she would be my pick for Miss Nauru, but it turns out she was Miss Nauru a few years ago.
The weather was really foul today but it created a really nice cooling effect. During the evening it was cool enough that I actually had to put on my jumper. I never thought I'd have to do that in Nauru. This has been a fabulous three weeks in the South Pacific with one exception: mosquitoes. I've never travelled to a region in my life where the mosquitoes are more horrific. Upon arriving in Fiji last month I had a care-free attitude, wearing shorts, sleeveless shirts, and thongs whilst watching with envy as Uashioa's children in Tuvalu slept outside with no blanket. I didn't bring a mosquito net and it took me over a week to find some repellent as it's not sold anywhere in Tuvalu. For my next South Pacific odyssey I'm bringing shoes and socks, as my feet get bitten more than anywhere else. I'll also be bringing a mosquito net, light-coloured long pants, a long-sleeve shirt, and the absolute strongest mosquito repellent that I could find. These bloodsuckers have left horrible welts all over me and have literally left me itching to get out of here!
Very soon these mosquito bites will be a distant memory, and I'll be sharing glowing stories about another fabulous Pacific odyssey.
