Altering plans during the pandemic has been the norm, even due to non-COVID issues. This journey has been no exception but what can you expect in Papua New Guinea (PNG)? Buses break down, flights get cancelled, permits force changes of plans and...it often forces you to meet some great people.
My flight was cancelled yesterday due to bad weather, and I was at risk of being stranded after Cedric and Cathy drove me all the way from Nondugl to Mount Hagen. The airline refused to organize any accommodation for all the stranded passengers, including a number of locals who drove or were driven from elsewhere in the Highlands. Last night I was supposed to stay with Shahar. He's an Israeli friend whom I met in New Zealand, and he's currently studying law at the University of PNG. When I found out I was stuck, I called both Cedric and Shahar, and they said they'd see if they could help me out. Shahar's friend Merna was sent to me after my long sojourn at the airport. What I forgot to mention is that I had booked a flight with Air PNG a few days ago but that was cancelled, and then it forced me to book a more expensive flight with Air Niugini. After all the drama, Merna had some contacts and was able to get me set up at a hotel very close to the airport. After a nice dinner, I had my first proper shower in PNG. The farm I've stayed at in Whitianga a few times is now called the Embassy of Peace, and Merna operates a smaller version of the Embassy of Peace in the Highlands. Merna went home, and then I was a little bit bored. The walls are high at the hotel and the manager told me the best thing to do is go to sleep. There is no wifi, so I turned on the TV for a bit before having a nice rest.
This morning, a lift was arranged for me to the airport, and then once back in Moresby I had to figure out my way to the University of PNG. I had to take two different PMVs but inconveniently, the stop for the first one was a bit of a walk from the airport, so one of the workers gave me a lift. In one of the PMV rides, I sat on the front step because it was really full and even though I was completely fine, the fare collector insisted that one of the passengers get up so I can have a seat. After a long day already, I finally met with Shahar. He would be busy studying until later, so it gave me time to visit the National Museum. Impressive are all the masks and other artefacts from various tribes around the country.
Perhaps the most impressive piece is a canoe decorated with cowrie shells.
How did I manage to pick such a fascinating country? Despite travel sometimes being challenging, PNG is a very rewarding place to visit. Most guidebooks say not to walk anywhere at night in Moresby but Shahar, his friend, and I took the plunge and we walked to a burger joint frequented by the student crowd. Shahar said he'd shout me if I agreed to eat something vegetarian, so I got a falafel sandwich and chips. My flight back to Australia is at the inconvenient time of 6:30 AM but Shahar asked his friend, and he agreed to get up early and give me a lift since a taxi would set me back about K50. As I feasted with Shahar this evening, I had a MacArthur moment. Even after this fabulous journey, I feel I have unfinished business here in PNG. The Kokoda Track beckons, and in the words of General MacArthur, "I came through and I shall return."
