I made it as far as Weipa a couple of days ago and that's where my progress somewhat stalled. There's not a lot to do in Weipa but it's a good provision stop and the beachside campground is really lovely. I should add that I met some really lovely people in Weipa. Last year I was in contact with a local named Shane on CouchSurfing but he isn't hosting people at the moment due to some personal issues. A lovely lady named Elissa stopped and offered me some advice on hitchhiking in the region. After a wonderful stay at the campground where I went swimming, watched the sunset, and got a seafood basket at Barramunchies (the onsite takeaway stand), I was advised by some guys with dirtbikes that my best bet is to get back to Archer River and try from there. They said that most people stop in Weipa on the way back from the Tip rather than on the way up. I guess that somewhat makes sense since there's a Woolworth's and a number of other places where you can stock up for the journey back down. I decided that I'll have my thumb out until 4 PM and if I don't get a lift my thumb goes down and my tent goes up. Sure enough, 4 PM came and went, and I was still there so I pitched my tent at the roadhouse campground and then went for a swim in Archer River. The rule is check, check, and check again before swimming anywhere in the Cape York Peninsula due to the risk of crocodiles. Archer River and Fruit Bat Falls are two of the few places in the region where swimming is OK.
There were plenty of people swimming today, with some of them resting in fold-up chairs and others playing footy. After a refreshing dip and drying out my bathers, the evening would turn out very fun. Whilst I planned on making some instant noodles I thought I'd have a glass of wine at the roadhouse and chat to some people. A group was on their way to the Tip but they're first stopping in Weipa for a week. The prettiest lady in the group was Simone, and she and her friends liked my comedy enough that they shouted me an Archer Burger and a couple glasses of wine. It was another of those unexpected moments that occurred when you briefly change your plans: I went from making instant noodles and taking it easy to having a burger, wine, and a lot of laughs and chatter.
This morning as I packed up my tent I had a positive attitude and said to another couple "I bet today's the day I get up there." Ready I was early with all my gear packed up, I was out there early. Sure enough, luck was with me as I was picked up by a guy named Buck from Thursday Island (TI). He was going all the way to Bamaga, and made some room in his small car for myself and my gear. From there we were on our way. The biggest risk for Buck was a potential windscreen chip from a passing vehicle. Even the smallest rocks are like bullets when someone is barrelling at full speed down a gravel road. Quite a few spent vehicles are abandoned on the side of the road.
We called in at Bramwell Roadhouse for a toastie and a coffee, and this is where people hang their rego plates on the tree.
Some of the termite mounds in the area are very tall.
These termite mounds are like little apartments, and can be so hard that even a vehicle travelling full speed can't knock them over. From there it was full steam toward Bamaga, with all the dirt roads to go with it. Each time a vehicle was zooming past, Buck would put his clenched hand on the windscreen in the hope that a rock doesn't cause a crack or chip (he had to be even more careful since it's his parter's car). The crossing at Jardine River is an interesting experience.
$100 is charged for the 30-second crossing ($130 if you're towing a caravan), and there's no realistic way to ford the river as it's infested with crocodiles. During peak season, the line for the ferry can be up to 5 kilometres long! Buck got across for $30 since he lives in the region. Only 40 km out of Bamaga we were. At about 3 PM we were in Bamaga where we called in for a drink at Bamaga Tavern, which markets itself as the most northerly tavern in Australia. Buck explained that people are so desperate for alcohol in these parts that they'll smash windows if it's visible in cars, so I advised him to cover a slab of beer with a blanket whilst we went inside. Only about 30 km I am from the Tip of Australia!
I was thinking of trying to get up there today and finish the journey but I thought I'll pitch my tent, rest up, and get up there when I'm refreshed. The Tip will still be there tomorrow. The campground at Seisia is very close to where the ferry to TI leaves from, so I may go there in a few days. Buck told me to call him if I decide to visit, which I probably will. When he dropped me off he gave me $50 and some stuff to make sandwiches. Wow, I've met some really helpful people up here.
After pitching my tent and storing my gear I went to the Fishing Club for a drink, as Buck advised. A teenaged girl gave me a very cold reception with "why are you here? This is a private birthday party" but then I stuck out when it was realized Buck gave me a lift up here. I had some good chats with some locals over a few glasses of wine and then soaked up how I'm so close to my goal. Perhaps one lift in the morning will get me there. Eventually, I'd chat to a couple named Casey and Sam who are staying at the campground. The back seat of their ute is full but they said they'd try to make some room for me.
Whilst I thought about making a packet of soup or some instant noodles, I thought $15 for fish & chips wasn't a bad idea, and they were really good on an evening like this. The climate is warm enough that I didn't even put the rain fly over my tent, but I've been advised to put it up during the day if I'm not there. The sunset sure didn't disappoint...
My dream is now so close. I'm not exactly a stone's throw away from the Tip but I'm very close. Tomorrow, I shall be on top of Australia!
