As the morning announcement came Anja said we have two landings planned, including another continental landing. Following Elie’s words to “love the shit out of this journey” I pigged out at breakfast and then donned my gear for another trip in a Zodiac to shore. Antarctic weather changes so rapidly, that it could be bright and sunny, and five minutes later it’ll be snowing. A bit of a bumpy Zodiac ride would have us on Useful Island. Few expeditions land here because it’s rather tricky to do so. After a few photos and a powerful whiff of a gentoo penguin colony, I hiked to the summit of Useful Island and lay down peacefully in the snow. With my parka, waterproof pants, and strong boots, relaxing in the snow is surprisingly comfortable even with 25-knot wind. From the summit, like everywhere else in Antarctica, it's gorgeous!
Kayaking was cancelled again this morning and camping ashore is continuously being postponed, so it’s a good thing I didn’t fork out extra money for both (sea kayaking costs $750 and camping ashore for a night costs $250, and even one of the expedition members says the latter isn't worth it). The wind was powerful and I felt a bit lightheaded this morning. My energy has been largely the same throughout this trip: an early rise followed by a landing, then a pre- or post-lunch nap, and then I’m absolutely excited and full of energy the rest of the day. I’ve already taken in excess of 1,000 photos in Antarctica, and today I got many more spectacular shots. We had nearly two hours on Useful Island with powerful wind gusts and golden opportunities for wildlife photography, as I managed some killer penguin photos.
A hot towel on the face and a hot cuppa works wonders after wandering through ice and a having cold facial wind blast on the way back to the ship. Lunch today was divine like usual: today I had grilled tandoori chicken topped with chutney and naan bread, with the executive chef serving spaghetti with meat sauce. Dessert was a slice of lemon cake. Only a short cruise away was Neko Harbour, where our second landing on the Antarctic continent would take place. As I stepped out of the Zodiac, I was in awe. If I was properly prepared with the right equipment and provisions, I could ski or snowshoe to the South Pole! Someday I will make that journey! And you have my word on that.
Today I had an opportunity to have a chat to the ship’s doctor, and I thanked her for being so understanding of my situation. We got so distracted talking that I nearly missed the final call to go ashore at Neko, so I had to get ready quickly. For landings, I have to put on my parka, my waterproof pants, lifejacket, and boots, but I don’t wander round the ship in my boots and parka: I strip down and wander in shorts and a T-shirt. Sometimes I’ll have a hot shower or a spa in between landings.
It was snowing as I walked in the snow and ice up the hill, but before long the majestic Antarctic colours were apparent. Bliss! Snap! Bliss! Snap! Another snap! And another complete state of bliss! I could be in such a deep state of bliss that I could fall asleep if I wanted to.
Now that I’ve reached all seven continents I shall recap a bit how it all happened. My earliest memories come from North America so that needs no introduction. Australia was my first solo trip overseas in ’04, and then I went to Iceland for my first European trip in ’07. Early in ’08, I touched down in Peru, marking my first time in South America. For my 5th continent, I had great difficulty deciding as I had my heart on Japan or Ethiopia for many years, either my first trip to Africa or my first trip to Asia. After strongly leaning toward Japan, I opted for Ethiopia in ’13 as continent #5. For my 30th birthday I made it to Japan, summiting Mt. Fuji and making it my first time in Asia. With six continents under my belt, Antarctica would remain the most expensive and most elusive. I put off Antarctica for many years due to the cost, but this year I finally gained the fiscal courage. At the age of 33, I’ve been to all seven continents! I love this journey so much I’m already thinking of another journey to Antarctic. When we get some serious funding for Fearless Journey, I’d like for us to go to the Ross Sea region or even the South Pole. Poseidon offers an expedition aboard a nuclear-powered icebreaker to the North Pole, but it’s $28,000, so I’ll have to do that trip on a sponsorship. I have big dreams and I tend to only aim higher after achieving one.
A baby elephant seal would steal the show at Neko, as I swooped in for many majestic photos.
With two hours at Useful Island and three hours at Neko, we had a full five hours to stay ashore today. How can I not be excited...
...when I'm snapping photos like this:
Elie said to love this journey wholeheartedly, and love it wholeheartedly I have! I’d have a spa amidst the icebergs after returning from shore. Dinner tonight was an Argentine feast. The mains are so appealing I often opt for two of them, so after a starter of Patagonian lentil soup, I had an Argentine BBQ grill with steak and lamb, and stuffed eggplant, both of which were brilliant. Dessert of sweet potato pie was just as delicious. After a long and cold day, warm and hearty food is the sweet cherry on top. This evening we were supposed to do the polar plunge but we will do that tomorrow. On tap for then is the Lemaire Channel and Port Lockroy; my goal for this journey is at least one geocache and one passport stamp, and Port Lockroy has both. I’ll have an opportunity to achieve both goals, but we have to land first. Patience (which I prototypically have little of) is key in Antarctica as the continent’s rapidly changing weather and unpredictable seas, rather than clocks and calendars, set the schedule. A group who returned last week didn’t make it to Port Lockroy, so I have to keep my fingers crossed. The Lemaire Channel, at 65°S will mark the furthest south we’ll travel.
Tonight I sat with Yvonne for a while and we discussed my adventures in Central America and the Dominican Republic. She enjoys going to Cuba every year. Tomorrow we have a lot on our radar, and let's keep our fingers crossed that we'll make it to Port Lockroy.
