Another gorgeous day I had in the Falklands yesterday. The weather has been brilliant for the past few days. I got to watch Keith and his farmhands move 13,000 sheep, more than six times the Falklands' human population, into the shearing shed. I remarked that I'd rather be a sheep than a bull, otherwise I'd be on a one-way trip to the slaughterhouse. What I planned on being one night in Goose Green turned into three nights. With Juliett, I got some overhead photos of the flocks of sheep.
Yesterday I made a run for West Falkland: home of less than 200 people but many thousands of sheep.
The ferry from East to West Falkland has to be prebooked; you can't just turn up and it will leave early if everyone shows up early. When I booked my trip, they said vehicle space is full, so i knew I'd have no problem getting a lift to New Haven. With my thumb out just outside of Goose Green, I got a lift within 10 minutes from a couple who both work at MPA, and will be touring West Falkland. There are no facilities in New Haven but I had a chance to grab my 18th Falkland geocache and observe a small penguin colony.
Onboard the ferry there's free coffee and tea and I got to check out the bridge. I had an opportunity to ask around for lifts but I didn't, and when I saw what few vehicles that were on the ferry drive toward Chartres and Fox Bay, I didn't put my thumb out. I stood on the corner with nothing but silence. There I was picked up by two sheep shearers named Ross and Gonzalo. They were concerned I'd be stuck out in the cold somwhere and they said "we have a room at our place" as they offered me a Budweiser. It's hard to believe that it's the first Budweiser I've ever had! Why is Budweiser so popular in the Falklands?
I think Gonzalo was concerned that I came here with zero knowledge and no provisions; I have plenty of food and the full gamut of sleeping gear, including a sleeping bag, mat, and pillow. My only main concern here is my tent; why did I pick out a tent in which I need a trekking pole to support it? At the home of the shearers it had the atmosphere of a youth hostel: a group of young guys (and a lady) drinking beer.
Reba is the name of the lady, and her partner is Jason. Also working here is a Frenchman named Roman.
This morning I woke up with a bit of a chip on my shoulder. Up at 5:30 AM I was determined to work hard for my keep: I can't shear sheep, but I can do other work. "Critta" is the manager of Port Howard Farm, and he said I could stay in the self-catering lodge in exchange for a bit of work. The shearers are well looked after, as they even have a cook with meals prepared daily. The cook is Carolina, originally from Chile but has lived in the Falklands for the past 11 years. Carolina offered me breakfast and then I helped her clean around the house. She remarked how the shearers aren't appreciative. Last night when I offered to clean, one of the shearers said "don't worry, somebody comes to clean for us."
There isn't a lot in Port Howard but the setting is gorgeous. Courtesy of Juliette...
I nearly lost her today as the powerful wind nearly carried her off. Touch wood I don't have a crash with her here beacuse I'm out of spare propellers, therefore I wouldn't be able to get more until I'm back in Chile. Carolina was hoping I could give her kids a drone demo but today it was far too windy. Instead I observed the shearers and got a few photos but I felt a bit bad about standing around whilst they're pissed and shit on by sheep. For being picked up yesterday, I shouted Gonzalo and Ross a six-pack of Budweiser. Critta said "the way to a shearer's heart is beer" as it's a difficult and demanding job.
Tonight was a rather quiet one for me as I cooked up a tasty, creative concoction of corned beef and instant mashed potatoes along with Bird's custard for dessert. It's my first time on West Falkland, and this is perhaps the nearest I've felt to the end of the Earth as there aren't many more isolated places. For at least the next few days I'll be here, earning my keep whilst learning a little bit (although not hands-on) about sheep shearing.
