My quest for the 7th continent continues, as I'm right near its doorstep. In a few days though, I'm leaving for the Falkland Islands. Chile is so long a country from north to south that it's a three-hour flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas, and this marks the furthest south I've ever travelled. Previously, the furthest south I'd ever been was Stewart Island, but Punta Arenas (PA) is more than six degrees latitude south from there. As capital of the Magallanes Region, the local flag flutters with the Southern Cross. Previously I'd contemplated hitchhiking from Santiago to PA but with only six days between arriving in Chile and my flight to the Falklands it was risky. Driving or hitchhiking the journey is a bit like going from Anchorage to Skagway; it requires a border crossing and loads of time. The only way here without flying is to cross into Argentina, or to take a series of ferries through the Chilean fjords: a picturesque journey that would take a few days. Wisely, I save a bit of room in my passport as well.
My ultimate goal for this journey is to reach Antarctica, someway, somehow. It that means cleaning toilets aboard a ship, so be it. As soon as I arrived at the airport, after waltzing past all the incessant taxi drivers trying to get me into their taxi, I'd get perhaps a rude awakening to the rigours of getting to Antarctica. After getting out my thermal shirt, a middle-aged British pilot came outside and when I saw a map of Antarctica on his jacket I asked "what are the chances of me hitchhiking on a plane bound for Antarctica?" "Zero" he responded. Then I asked "even if I'm the main subject of a movie and attempting to be the first person with autism to reach all seven continents unchaperoned?" "Zero" he said. "This is taxpayers' money." He provided no further advice before walking off, and I figured my best bet is to get to Ushuaia and hope for the best. Nobody ever said reaching Antarctica will be easy. Hitchhiking into PA was easy however, and before long I was at the home of my latest CouchSurfing hosts. For the next few days I'm staying with a couple named Cristian & Paula. The former is a chef and the latter is a math professor. Their home is nice and warm and they have an iron stove that's powered by coal. PA is the world's southernmost city of more than 100,000 inhabitants, with a sizable portion of PA's population being Croatian immigrants and their descendants.
Home to some interesting monuments, the first place I visited whilst on a walk with Cristian and Paula is Monumento al Ovejero (Sheepdog Monument). Of course, I had to be a goofball...
Later I walked along the waterfront to Monumento a Tripulantes Galeta Ancud.
Due to its proximity to the sea, it's no surprise that there are many monuments dedicated to the area's seafaring heritage. This is on a memorial to Magellan...
By far, Chile is the most expensive country in Latin America (previously, I felt it was Costa Rica). A cup of coffee at the petrol station will run you nearly $3 (US), and for a meal, you can expect to pay close to what you'd pay in the US or Australia. All around are towns, regions, national parks, and street signs named after Bernardo O'Higgins. Of Spanish and Irish descent, he was a wealthy landowner who is essentially the "George Washington" of Chile. As I wandered though downtown I snacked on some carmelized nuts, which originated in Patagonia and which I first tried in New Zealand. Then I walked round snapping photos. I've always loved photographing fruit stalls and markets...
At first glance, PA is a fascinating city that's very walkable. Though it's cool enough to put on long pants and a jumper, being this close to the ozone hole means it's important to get out the sunscreen as well. After a bit of sightseeing I called in at a place to see if I can get my phone set up to use in Chile, but it seems it won't be an easy task. Despite the plethora of geocaches in Santiago, there is only one geocache in all of PA. I snapped it up quick and then decided to call it a day. Yesterday I barely slept and then I had to go fly to PA, but it's no wonder I'm downright exhausted!! For now I'm sitting, chatting with Cristian and Paula over a nice dinner with a glass of Chilean red wine as an accomplishment for crossing 50 degrees south!
