Waking up in Yigzaw's flat (Yigzaw's puzzle) at 7 AM (the latest I've woken up in Ethiopia) I was ready for the coffee ceremony but it wouldn't be happening until later. As I went to wash up I had to step over a rotting cattle hoof, ugh! Slaughtering of cattle, sheep, or whatever is commonplace in Ethiopia so I must get used to it. There's a nice view from the flat. Up for a cup of tea or coffee I was ready along with Joe and Manuel, from Switzerland to visit Gondar Castle, colloquially known as "Africa's Camelot." Unlike Bahir Dar, which is flat, Gondar is very hilly and a bit tough for walking (though it's cooler and breezier). Getting breakfast I opted for a "normal full" with avocado. Whilst tasty I didn't eat the whole thing; spiced tea was even better, though there were bees buzzing about all over the place. Ethiopia has no shortage of bees! My breath was taken away as we approached Gondar Castle. It is spectacular! Admission is 100 birr but it's so amazing you'd think it'd cost a lot more. "Gondar Castle" is actually numerous castles. The most impressive castle is Fasilda's Palace, built with Indian, Portuguese, Axumite, and Moorish influences. The official name of the complex is Fasil Ghebbi but is often called "Gondar Castle" or the "Royal Enclosure." Centuries ago, criminals were executed and those disroyal to the king and queen were tortured and subsequently fed to lions and hyenas that lived in the complex. The castles are so spectacular I can't imagine the bloodbaths that took place here! Around the corner from the main palace is the Palace of Ayasu I. Joe and Manuel had to duck through some of the doorways but I didn't have to!
And I sure found several nooks to cozy up in. As we went over to the next castle I climbed up bravely and demonstrated my bravery without taking a nasty tumble.
For at least two hours we hung out at Gondar Castle and I snapped enough photos that my battery ran out! I've been in Ethiopia only about a week and I've seen my fair share of disfigured people with missing fingers, ears, and limbs, but today I saw a gum-selling little boy of about 10 or 12 with eye completely busted up as if he'd be abused or punched. It's sad; I haven't seen disfigurement like this elsewhere. We all walked toward Debre Berhan Selassie church. I was getting tired by then but why should I whilst travelling? "I must journey tirelessly" I tell myself. The other guys got into the church with their student ID card but I forgot mine at Yigzaw's flat, though I'll admit the church is rather boring; far less interesting than the castles. As we took our shoes off (common protocol when entering an Ethiopian church) a group of Brits swarmed in. It's surprising how many European travellers come here, though the vast majority are on all-inclusive tours. The rubber lining of my water filter gave out as I went to fill up. It seemed like bad news because I want to go this whole journey without buying any water. Carefully I snapped it back in but I have to be cautious when I screw the bag on to the filter. When we stopped for lunch I was completely surprised at the lack of vegetables on the menu; Ethiopians love their meat, and they'll eat it raw. Joe and Manuel ordered kitfo (raw beef) for lunch but they decided to have it cooked when they saw it was raw. Yigzaw's sister promised us a coffee ceremony today so I bought some raw coffee beans as we walked toward Fasilada's Bath. Coffee is rather pricey here: 80 birr for one pound of beans! It makes me wonder how the average habesha affords the national drink. An Ethiopian wedding with a motorcade moved slowly yet celebratory as it passed by us, with the men dressed in tuxedos and the women dressed in green dresses and white headscarves.
Most weddings here take place in February and March. Earlier I held on tight to my Gondar Castle ticket as admission to the Bath is free with it. The giant bath is full only once a year for the Timkat festival and takes up to a month to fill.
This is very, very interesting, and intriguing that a miniature castle stands in the middle of the bath. The bath was empty and a cute little monkey on a leash greeted us in the courtyard. Postcards sold on-site show the bath with many bathers whilst full. With our sore feet and our fill of baths, churches, and castles, it was time to hit the tej beat for some only potent golden stuff. Gondar's only known tej beat looks extremely dodgy and like a dilapidated schoolhouse. There is no sign out front and there are dim lights and old wooden tables and benches. Tej tastes great but sometimes leaves an aftertaste that's impossible to describe. Buzzed a bottle later and weary after a long day we found ourselves back at Yigzaw's "puzzle" before we know where we were! The mountain air and crickets make for a soothing sleep, and that was all I heard.
