It was a test of my nerves and patience today. Whilst the plan was to walk to Sankaber it would be 8+ hours walking along a dirt road getting blasted with dust every time a vehicle passed by. A guide named David flagged down the bus for me so I had to pack everything quickly and it cost a whopping 500 birr! Without enough time to properly say goodbye to everyone and David and others bugging me for money, I was on the bus. Sardined between a pile of locals I started to cry, thinking "why am I travelling?" Though many people encourage me to travel it's the few who are critical that are making me lose interest in it, and subsequently lose interest in life. Those people tell me I'm irresponsible, unmotivated, and "still a kid." This morning it was difficult to think positive. For two hours I needed to piss badly as dust was getting blown into the bus and it seemed we were all going to end up in the bottom of a canyon. The bus was so packed I couldn't see out of any of the windows. All I could think of was getting to Axum, but my scout and I were back in dusty Debark. It was hot and I had children chasing me as we returned my cooking gear. Birara had to go somewhere so I tipped him 200 birr for protecting me and helping me out on my journey. The Simien Mountains are amazing! I totally would walk them again and I would climb Ras Dashen next time I'm here, though I must remember to bring a thicker sleeping bag and more warm clothes. Unsure of my next move I thought of attempting to hitchhike to Axum or stay at the Simien Park Hotel so I could rest up, wash up, and start early in the morning. Then, when I went to use the internet at the only public computer in town the owner, Bante (with his perfect English) invited me to have a shower, wash my clothes, have a coffee, and even stay for the night! After thinking for a few I decided to take up his generous offer. How nice is it to experience this sort of hospitality after a long mountain trek? I was in need of some R&R so I thought I'd chat with Bante and we had some good chats. When I asked him his ideal place to live he said "out of Africa." He feels though that Ethiopia's potential is sky-high. We talked about population growth; Ethiopia's population is at around 84 million, which is substantial considering that it was 15 million in 1935. Water is scarce in the dry season, yet Bante describes Ethiopia as "Africa's water tower." He's not far wrong as the mountains are the source of four major river systems (including the Blue Nile), dozens of lakes and in his words: 5 months of rain and 13 months of sunshine! The Ethiopian Tourist Board actively promotes that slogan along with "be seven years younger." For lunch I feasted on a colourful and delicious plate of vegetarian national food.
Now this is the Ethiopian food I've been looking for! Delicious it was! Good food, clean clothes, and a hot shower; I suddenly felt new again. When I went for a stroll I ran into Anne at the Simien Park Hotel. She said the Polish guys (Jan and Filip) were in a 4WD about a half-hour behind her, so I thought if I kept my eye out I'll see them. Eventually I did, and I gave the "walking Poles with walking poles" my blog and email. Debark is very dusty due to the high volume of construction going on. Bante told me when it's all finished the highway is going to be beautiful with trees and flowers lining the centre divider. As Bante's younger brother was washing my clothes I had to watch something gruesome: a sheep being skinned, gutted, and butchered! And there was even shit still in the intestine and the guy used his mouth to try and suck it out! Gross! My plan is to someday be a vegetarian. I'm sure animals for meat aren't treated as cruel here as in the U.S. but it's still sad to eat something that was killed for my plate. Running out the door I went for a long walk, although there aren't many places in town to walk to and you'll get hounded for money as you walk down the street. It's a real joy staying with Bante and his wife. These sorts of experiences make travelling extra special, and they help me realize that not all people in Ethiopia are just after your money. As an early dinner I got spaghetti at a hotel, and as I was eating this weirdo approached me and started yelling saying I was "ungrateful." I complained to the waiter who told me that guy used to be a mountain guide but lost his job and starting using drugs. As poor as Ethiopia is there isn't (with the exception of qat) much of a drug culture here. Ethiopians are very hard working for what they get in return. Bante showed me where I was going to sleep tonight. Just outside his room is a mattress where I'd lie next to a painted-blue wall that's made of dirt. He warned me there's a possibility of the odd flea or two but I just have to trust that I won't encounter any. What a day it was today! I went from being a crying, filthy scuzzball to a smiling beam of light! Perhaps tomorrow I'll set off toward Axum, or perhaps I may enjoy Bante's company enough that I'll stick around. After four days in the Simien Mountains, what a spectacular finish it was today! Now I must rest my weary self and hope the fleas don't attack me.
