Back in Kathmandu
It has been nine years since my last trip to Nepal, and in the meantime the 2015 earthquake did a tremendous amount of damage and cost almost 9,000 lives. It has been fascinating to see the changes time and the renovations have brought to Kathmandu’s center and the Valley at large. Some things don’t change, however, and that is the welcoming hospitality of the Nepalis, who are heavily reliant on tourism to survive. Covid was especially taxing on them as without tourism, many businesses and individuals couldn’t survive. Tourism is now back in full swing, the mountain treks seem to be filling up – I’ll experience this first hand starting tomorrow – and Thamel is alive and well as the eternal hippie backpackers hangout. The dirt, dust, and trash have also not changed, but the streets themselves and many of the houses have. International aid has helped reconstruct the center of Kathmandu and especially around Durbar Square. There are still a few temples that are in ruins, but for the most part the temples have been reconstructed in the original forms and often with the original Newari woodwork. The museum in Durbar Square is officially open, but much of what used to be visible is now closed as renovations in the Old Palace continue. Some of the main streets leading from Thamel and Chhetrapati to Durbar Square are now tiled rather than pounded dirt, which does cut down somewhat on the dust, except that cars and motorcycles add back to the air pollution problems. And the air in the city is difficult to breathe; it is much better up in the hills in the surrounding Valley.
Thamel itself hasn’t changed much, other than there are, if at all possible, even more stores. Thamel is unique in the world. It is not representative of Nepal, but it can only exist in Nepal. It remains a backpacker’s heaven, and the meeting point of travelers from across the globe, all who love mountains and a few more who love art. The hippies of the 1960s and 70s have gotten older, and we now prefer better sanitation facilities, and Thamel’s hotels have adjusted to that. Backpacker hostels are still here, but some of the older hotels have been renovated and now suit an older clientele. There is even a dust-free park area just outside the Kathmandu Guest House, and the park is bordered by the new Kathmandu Art Center, that showcases local artists, and the small Kathmandu Art Museum, that has a nice collection of traditional and modern works.
I arrived in the afternoon and had time to do a few errands before the start of my tour to some of the major pilgrimage sites in the Valley. When I arrived it was sunny, which was a very pleasant switch from the monsoon rains in India. Unfortunately, within a few hours, the rain was back. I had started to get a cold in Kumaon in the monsoons, and the dusty air in Kathmandu now led to a full-blown chest cold.
Luckily, for this portion of the trip I had a knowledgeable guide. Arjuna, is well versed in Hindu mythology and the Hindu sacred sites in the region. He is a fairly amazing person as he has done the Mt. Kailash kora 35 times! I’m sure I couldn’t do it even once….The last time I was here I had a Newari Buddhist monk as my guide, so this meant that I was getting different perspectives on some of the same sites. It is crucial to have a good knowledgeable guide in Kathmandu as there are so incredibly many temples, gods, goddesses, deities, architectural types etc. etc., that bombard the senses. There needs to be a guide to make sense of all the confusing impressions.
The rain stopped in the morning for a quick trip to Budhanilkantinath to see the sleeping Vishnu, who lies in the middle of a pond embraced by Nagas, the sacred serpents. The story says that Vishnu sleeps six months and wakes six months, i.e., the Hindu version of Persephone’s calendar. There are monkeys at most of the temples, and here it was no different. Someone had placed a banana on the Hanuman statue, and a monkey quickly went to grab it. He broke the banana in half, then let it fall to the ground to go to a puddle to get a drink of water, then wander off. Hanuman is the monkey god, so this seemed especially odd.
When I rearranged the itinerary, I wanted to make sure that I could get back to some of my favorite spots in the Valley as well as the city. One in the country is at Sankhu, where there is an ancient Vajra Yogini site in the hills outside of the town. I try to make sure that my guides always get to a place they haven’t been, and I succeeded here again, as Arjuna had never been here (actually, he got to a few new places in the days we had together). The temple area is on a couple of levels up a hill. Today one can drive up a road that is partially paved and partially washed away, whereas before we had to walk up a series of fairly steep steps to the lower level. The parking area for cars is at the upper level. This level was destroyed and has not yet been rebuilt. The lower level, which has the main temples and the meditation caves, seems like it was untouched by the quake. The ancient artwork on the temples is simply stunning. According to legend, the scholar and guru Nagarjuna meditated in one of these caves on his way from India to Tibet. The main temple is dedicated to Vajra Yogini, who cut the hills to drain a lake that used to cover the valley. She instructed the people to build a village in the shape of a conch shell where the lake had been, giving fertile land and life to the populace. The image of Vajra Yogini in Sankhu takes the form of Ugra-Tara, the wrathful version of the goddess. Her statue is supposed to be self-arising, much like the Ganesha and Tara in Pharping. This hillside temple used to be far from residential areas, but the region now has so many more houses than it did even nine years ago that the residential area extends to the bottom of the hill. I shouldn’t be so surprised when I think of the spread in Salzburg, Salt Lake, Flagstaff and Phoenix all places that have mushroomed when I lived there, but I guess I never expected it here in Nepal. I’m not sure if the building boom started before or after the earthquake, but with the renovations to the towns, perhaps people started to spread out more. Sankhu town was partially destroyed, but it has been rebuilt in the original style. It is a traditional agriculturally based community, and people were working on threshing rice and corn while we were there.
Just outside of Sankhu is another pilgrimage site the Sali Nadi Chowk. There is an annual festival here, where women fast for a month prior to coming to worship in the river in the hopes that their petitions will be answered. While we were there, a couple of young village boys were playing naked in the river, cooling off on a warm day. I was struck by the fact that this would not happen in America or in most of Europe anymore. After time in the hills, it was back to the metropolis.
Our next stop was Boudanath, one of my favorite places in Kathmandu. This 6th c stupa was damaged in 2015, and the international community helped rebuild it. It is now no longer possible to go up to the various levels of the stupa and many of the images and statuary that were on the upper levels are no longer there, but the spirit of the place remains. It has been a sacred site for millennia and that sense comes through regardless of the tourist and café shops. Walking the kora chanting Om Mani Pang Me Hum connects one with a spiritual ritual that has been going on for hundreds of years.
The last site of the first full day was at Pashupatinath. Each time I come to Nepal, I come here as it is for Hindus and Buddhists alike a very sacred spot on the Bagmati River. This was the first time, however, that I entered from the non-tourist side. Arjuna, took me to the gate that leads to the Guhyeshwari Temple, that is only open to Hindus. This goddess is famous as the Adi Shakti, who is cosmic energy. The site is also a Shaktipeeth, where Sati’s hips, or sometimes, knees, are supposed to have fallen to the earth. Interestingly, it is also a Vajra Yogini site for Vajrayana Buddhists. We walked around the back of Pashupatinath in the rain until we came to the gated enclosure of the deer park. By a stroke of good fortune, the fellow who worked there unlocked the gate for us, so that I could take some photos of the deer herd that lives near on the Pashupatinath cremation grounds site. From there we walked back to the main temple area with cremations now being conducted via electric ovens as well as the traditional wood, (the electric ovens are new since my last visit), across the bridge to the mediation caves below and to the side of the Hospice building. People bring those who are dying to the hospice so that there is little distance to where they will be cremated. The ashes go into the (very very polluted) sacred Bagmati River, which is considered the Ganges of Nepal. By the Tilopa and Naropa, two leading historical Buddhist teachers, meditation caves, a few monkeys were playing and one baby who was tied up, stole a fellow’s baseball cap and started to play with it. He put it on, and it covered his entire face, so he tossed it down, picked it back up again, tried to eat it and then apparently fairly disgusted with it, thew it away. It was a bit of humor amidst the burning corpses. It was in these caves that Naropa is said to have first envisioned Vajra Yogini. He later instructed two brothers from Pharping in her tantra leading to the spreading of Heruka and Vajra Yogini teachings to reach enlightenment in one lifetime.
Originally, I had planned on flying to Taplejung to do a 3-4 day pilgrimage hike to Pathibhara Temple in the eastern portion of the country. The flight schedule to Taplejung was changed at the last minute, which meant that I could no longer fit that hike into my itinerary. As it turned out, this was a good thing, a) because with my cold, I would have had trouble, and b) it was raining, so I wouldn’t see any of the mountain ranges I’d wanted to and c) there is a new Pathibhara temple outside of Bhaktapur that is much easier to access.
Pathibhara is a Nepali goddess who has her mountain near the Kachenjunga range. Her temple is among the most visited in that region, but only by Nepalis and occasionally by Indians. She is hardly known in the West. She is said to grant the wishes of those who come with an open heart and sincere requests. When I had to cancel the pilgrimage, Rana, from Adventure Himalayan Travels, who arranged the trip for me, suggested I go to the recently opened temple to the goddess in the hills in the Valley. I didn’t know there was such a temple, so grabbed at this chance. The drive goes past Bhaktapur and up into the hills east of Kathmandu. It was a clear sunny day, and I was amazed at all the construction going on and the new very fancy houses dotting the hillsides. I have no idea who can afford to live like this here, but obviously many people do. There is also an American run World College Business School that looks like it would cover at least a full US football field on one of the hills overlooking the valley. The temple itself is hidden up a jeep track, that is drivable with a regular car. It is in a beautiful setting, and the goddess smiles benevolently from her pedestal across the lush green hills and valleys. If I had gone on the original pilgrimage route, I would have been going up the mountain with hundreds of other pilgrims; at this site, there were the temple keepers, the priests, Arjuna and me. It was a serene and peaceful experience.
On the way back toward Bhaktapur, I asked to stop at a spot that had a temple gate with a flight of stairs that looked like they would lead to a good lookout point. They did and not only that, but they led to another goddess site, one that is supposed to be a Shaktipeeth for the right arm, although this is not what any of my books or the internet say for this body part. That particular part was supposed to have landed in Bengal, not Nepal, but who am I to argue with the local priest. Regardless, the view from here was stunning.
The next two stops were places I had previously been, but both of which had been severely damaged in the earthquake, Changunarayan and Bhaktapur. Both have been renovated in the old style and are quite nice, although they are even more touristy than before. Changunarayan is famous for the Vishnu Temple, which is still undergoing renovations, and Bhaktapur for its Durbar Square and unique Newari woodworking tradition. Just a word of warning here, I stopped in for a tea overlooking the Mahalaxmi Temple in Bhaktapur, which is one of the few temples that remain unscathed in the quake and was charged RS 405 for a cup. In Thamel, I paid no more than RS 150 and most of the time RS100. Bhaktapur is known for its handicrafts, and there are master studios for woodworking, thangka painting and metal work throughout the town.
The next day followed the same pattern, first into the hills and then back to the city sites. The first was the Vajra Varahini, the boar’s headed yogini, outside Patan. The temple is in the midst of a forest, and it was amazingly peaceful. There is a short path to a picnic area in the forest where bird song drowns out the noise of motorized vehicles. I’m guessing the goddess would be pleased.
What she might not be so pleased with is the number of people affected with Dengue Fever in the Kathmandu region right now. About a third of the population is either now ill or has recently recovered. When we entered Patan, there was a sign warning people about the white and red Dengue mosquito. I’ve been careful to wear long sleeves and avoid any standing water where the mosquitos gather. Patan is much the way I remember it, with local artisans and exquisite artwork on the temples, windows, balconies and for sale in the shops. The Golden Temple is as overwhelming with its density of artifacts as it always was. What I hadn’t seen before, because it was always closed, was the Buddha in the central shrine. His face conveys warmth and compassion while his body is encased in intricately etched designs and draped with flowers and jewels. His headdress is almost as tall as his seated body. Another stunning work of art. Another Vajra Yogini site next to the Mahaboudha Temple and stupa near Durbar Square. In this temple, the “Flying Vajra Yogini” is honored. As we made our way through Patan’s Durbar Square, we came across a film crew shooting a scene for a Bollywood film. The singers and dancers were draped like cloth on the surrounding temples. It was quite a sight to behold.
From Patan, we headed to Swayambhunath, but on the way I asked to stop at the National Museum. This museum is a real treasure. It is well organized, chronologically and by type, e.g., stonework, woodwork, metalwork, painting etc. and there are descriptions in English that explain the artifacts. The museum has books for sale on the various exhibits at the gatekeeper’s room. There is no museum shop. Photography is allowed in all but the thangka room. Most people don’t go to museums while in Kathmandu, and this is a real shame, as this one provides just enough information so that one can understand who the most common deities in the local temples are based on their iconography.
Swayambhunath lords over Kathmandu and is a fascinating stupa, monastery, and cultural highlight. It is said to be self-arising and Manjushri, as well as Saraswati, have their sites just to the side of the main stupa region. The view on a clear day, which this luckily was, takes in the now very populated valley and still green hills surrounding the residential areas. The Hariti temple by the side of the stupa didn’t allow photography, but it is one of the main worship areas on the square. Hariti is the goddess who is said to have kidnapped children as she couldn’t have her own until the Buddha showed her the harm she was causing. She transformed to become the protector of children. She is the goddess for those who overcome their own errors/harmful ways. The museum off in a corner, is free, but no one has polished the windows on the cases since the first time I was here in 2000. It is impossible to see the sculptures inside. I wonder if this is supposed to be a metaphor for the internal pollution we all share that needs to be purified on the path to enlightenment….
The last day of this lightning tour of the major Kathmandu Valley pilgrimage sites was to Dakshinkali and environs. Dakshinkali is one of the major Kali worship sites in the region and is one where live animal sacrifice regularly takes place. Blood flows to honor the goddess. Flowers, coconuts, other fruits, and of course money are, however, also suitable offerings. There are two levels to her site. The lower level by the stream is the sacrificial site and is the main area. This is supposed to be the daughter’s area. Up a series of staircases is a smaller, much simpler, temple on the top of a hill with a fabulous view, that is said to be the mother’s temple. On the way, one passed a wishing tree, except the threaded wishes aren’t on the branches, but on the roots. While we were there, at the main temple a few local indigenous shaman, medicine men, came to worship. They had their drums and rattles and sang while they prayed at Kali’s shrine.
At the mother’s temple, one can see the Guru Rinpoche caves on a neighboring hill in Pharping. This was our next stop. I have been to the self-emerging Ganesha and Tara cave a number of times and was amazed at a few things this time. Firstly, that there is a second Tara that is now visible, where she wasn’t before, and secondly, the commercialization of the site. Where the self-emerging rock was housed with a few Buddhist statues before, now there are complete cabinets and Taras painted on the walls. Up a set of stairs from the Ganesha/Tara rock, is one of the three Guru Rinpoche meditation caves in the area. The first has an imprint of his feet, the second an imprint of his hand, and a bit down the road, the third site is devoid of physical memorabilia, but has a series of shrines next to it. The second one is in the monastery that now houses the Ganesha/Tara rock as well as the first cave. In front of the second, where imprints of Guru Rinpoche’s feet used to be on the ground, is a shrine with the footprints on a pedestal. The entire square is enclosed so that it is like entering a room, rather than an outside space.
Next to the monastery is another of the Vajra Yogini sites (Sankhu, Guyheshwari, Bijeshwori, Patan, & Pharping). The Pharping temple has been redone since I was last here and is now in quite good condition. It along with Sankhu are the two oldest Vajra Yogini sites. The main image of the divine female is on second floor of the temple; she is said to be able to speak. It is possible to go up to see her, but photography isn’t allowed. This figure is honored by Buddhists and Hindus alike under different names. For Hindus she is Nil Tara. She, like most of the other Vajra Yoginis, is red and is supposed to have appeared to the elder of the two brothers instructed by Naropa at Pashupatinath.
From the monastery and adjacent Vajra Yogini site, we drove a few minutes to the Vishnu temple with stairs leading to the third Guru Rinpoche cave. Hindus visit the Vishnu temple, with carp and goldfish in the ponds. This is the site of the first hydroplant in Nepal. Leading from the Vishnu temple is a set of stairs to the next level where the cave is in the back. What is unique about this space is that there is an overhanging rock like an external stalactite above one of the shrines.
Guru Rinpoche, aka Padmasambhava, is a central figure in this region and when I was here in 2013, a huge statue of the guru was being constructed. It is now finished as well as the huge monastery below it. The region has blossomed Buddhist monasteries over the past twenty years, and there must be at least five major ones between the image of the Guru and Pharping. The statue is very colorful and beautiful. On the platform where one performs a kora there are statues on one side of Ganesha and Saraswati. While both are originally Hindu figures, Himalayan syncretism has included them in the Buddhist fold.
The last stop of the day was really a hike. I wanted to stretch my legs and go to the Champa Devi temple up Champa Devi hill. I couldn’t find out anything about Champa Devi other than the goddess is the name of the mountain but did learn that the temple was a pilgrimage site. Getting there was quite a trick. We were in a jeep – luckily as a regular car would not have made the steep climb to a resort where most people relax before beginning the hike. The driver took us a little further along the dirt path and then stopped at what looked like it could be a picnic ground. The beginning of the hike is uphill, but it is at decent grade. At the top of the first hill, there starts to be stone steps going down. This goes on for a while, until the steps start to climb and climb and climb. One person in a review of the site said that it was supposed to be the stairway to heaven, although I’d heard that when on a section of the Annapurna trail. I thought I was in fairly good shape as I had been preparing for the hike to Tengboche that I’m starting tomorrow, but clearly am not. The chest cold caused a few problems, and I had to sit down a few times before making it to the top. At this point, it will be nothing short of a miracle if I can get up to the most famous monastery in the Nepali Himalayas. The views on the way up Champa Devi were spectacular even though the clouds covered the far high Himalayas. The temple itself is fairly simple. There are a few worship objects on the ground, and it is a rustic more indigenous site than those of the urban areas. It was a perfect way to end this pilgrimage site tour of the Kathmandu Valley.
There is no way to see all the pilgrimage sites in Kathmandu, but I am very glad to have visited these few major ones. I’m not including descriptions of all the deities here in this blog as it would otherwise be far too long and detailed. They can be googled for those who are interested.
I did promise a friend that I would mention something about food and nightlife in Thamel. One can find everything here, from Chinese, to Middle Eastern to American burgers, to Tibetan, Indian and of course Nepali food. Nepali foods have changed and become more international over the years, but Dal Baht, lentils, is still the mainstay and on the trek, that’s probably what I’ll be eating. Thamel has a number of bars and nightclubs that cater to young tourists; I’m not sure how many Nepalis actually go there.
& fyi, I’ll write about women’s rights at the end of the Nepal section of my journey. I still have the trek, Lumbini and a village stay ahead of me.
I do want to say a word of thanks to Rana from Adventure Himalayan Travels. He has been very professional about changing the itinerary as needed, made great suggestions, and has provided an excellent guide. Arjuna was very informative and fun to be with.
The photos corresponding to these sites are all in the photo galleries.
