Following a few months of very little exercise and 3 weeks socialising in England would ABC be as easy as; 1, 2, 3, doe, ray, me, as the song goes? Mind you, I’ve a sneaking suspicion that The Jackson Five weren’t singing about the Annapurna Base Camp trek!
DAY 1
Nayapul 1070m > Birethani 1025m > Tikhedhungga 1520m > Ulleri 2020m > Ban Thanti 2210m
A taxi from Pokhara to Nayapul cost Rs1500 and took just over an hour through beautiful scenery. We could see more of the snow-capped peaks and were feeling very eager to start trekking. The start of the trail is down an uninspiring set of steps to Birethani and the permit checking offices. First the TIMS card, the trekking permit, is checked and then the Annapurna Conservation Area ticket is taken. These cards cost $20 and Rs2000 respectively and we obtained them from an office in Pokhara. All ticked off and we were ready to start.
The jeep track, that had followed the river, petered out just before Hille and 2hrs after setting off we found ourselves at Tikhedhungga. We’d expected this section to take 3hrs so were pleased with our progress. We know we’re very unfit at the moment, that’s why we’re trekking, but it was good to know we hadn’t lost all our core fitness. We rested a while here and munched our picnic as we knew the next section was going to be more challenging.
We were now on a stone pathway, impossible for vehicles to negotiate; mules are the transporter of goods in this area. Our guide book said it would take 2hrs up a flight of steep stone steps to reach Ulleri. After an hour of energy zapping steps we were amazed to see a ‘Welcome to Ulleri’ sign. We were right not to get too excited as it took a further 30mins to plod up the steps through this spread out village. Before setting off we’d planned to spend the night here but it was only early afternoon so we carried on. A further half an hour along the stone path, we came to Ban Thanti where we spotted Heaven View Guesthouse. Even though it was only 2pm we were ahead of schedule and black clouds were looming.
The fella who showed us the room gave a conspiratorial sounding chuckle when we asked how much it was. The room was spotlessly clean and had a private bathroom so we were expecting much more than the Rs300 quoted. We were sure that would end up being per person but at that point were the only customers. So much for it being peak season. In then end another couple of trekkers arrived and the room did indeed only cost Rs300. We quickly grabbed a shower and put on clean clothes before we began to feel too chilly. As we were sat in the dining hall having a warm brew our decision to stay was vindicated. Thunder began rumbling around us, the clouds lowered then rain and hail ensued. We can only hope that the weather is clear in the morning as it tends to be in the mountains.
We enjoyed our first day of walking and it was great to be trekking again. We were very pleased with the pace we set ourselves and it was good to know we were walking within the timings in our guide book. We didn’t see anywhere near as many trekkers as we’d anticipated and it appeared that most people were going in the opposite direction. We spent that afternoon sitting in the dining hall willing the weather to clear. Sure enough it did and we could see a high Himalayan peak dominating the head of the valley. Watching the snow and ice faces change colour as the sun set was a lovely end to our first day.
The lady of the house presented us with an excellent dhal baht meal and standards have certainly improved over the years. The menu was as extensive as any you’d find in town with reasonable prices considering how isolated the villages are. We also had 24hr power which is more than Pokhara can boast.
DAY 2
Ban Thanti 2210m > Ghorepani 2860m > Poon Hill 3210m > Ghorepani (again) > Deurali 3180m > Ban Thanti Hill 2660m
We were up early as you tend to be whilst trekking. The pattern tends to be: early tea, straight to bed to get warm, early lights out, dawn breakfast and get trekking by 7.30am.
The day dawned bright and clear and we were happy to reach Ghorepani in only 2hrs. The stone steps we’d been on yesterday continued and we know we’ll encounter several thousand more before the end of the trek. The ABC and Poon Hill treks are very popular and it’s good to see the paths being well maintained in order to reduce erosion. The committees running this vast Annapurna Conservation Area seem to be doing an excellent job. Everywhere filtered water is available to minimise plastic waste and in fact bottled mineral water is banned higher up the trail. Plus many of the tea houses have solar panels and they all use energy saving light bulbs. Also, part of the ticket price goes towards community projects and helps fund the local schools.
Anyway back to the trek. It was only 9.30am and the skies were still pretty clear so we legged up to the top of Poon Hill. It was just as well we pushed ourselves as the clouds steadily descended. However, we were lucky enough to get fabulous views of the Dhaulagiri range leading around to the imposing peak of Annapurna South. We were staring straight into a wall of 7000m+ and 8000m+ peaks – that’s what trekking in the Himalayas is all about. It was well worth a 400m dash up a hill as an add-on to the trek. Steve had been up there 15 years ago so happened to know it was well worth the effort. I concur.
Following a light lunch we headed uphill again to Deurali pass at 3080m from where we crossed over into the valley that would lead us to the ABC. It soon became apparent that our trekking guide and map were giving us conflicting information. Plus the guide’s times were a work of fiction. It doesn’t help that there’s more than one place with the same name. Added to which, some villages seemed to have changed name or swapped locations! For example, when we reached the village of Deurali at 3180m we expected to find ourselves in Ban Thanti. This was where we thought we’d spend the night but it was still early so we pushed on.
The path wound steeply down through a rhododendron forest following a river that we crossed several times. We should have enjoyed this section more but were a little unsettled with not knowing exactly where we were. Plus it was treacherously slippy in places with ice on the path and much more snow than we’d anticipated at only 3000m. Besides which the path continues in a downwards direction for way longer than we were happy with. We’ve got to get up to 4000m later in this trek! We eventually found another settlement that claimed to be Ban Thanti but again continued as we knew there was somewhere else to stay further along the track. As we crested a ridge a movement in the trees caught our eye – Hanuman langurs but looking much bigger in their winter coats than those we’d seen in Bardia National Park.
Just as the weather was starting to close in we came across Trekkers Sanctuary Lodge at Ban Thanti Hill 2660m. That was the end of the road for us for today and once again a smart decision as within 20mins it was raining heavily. The cloud was still quite high so could vaguely make out the view down the valley. The forest clad slopes were awash with reds and pinks from the rhododendron blooms. Once again we were the only guests and to our surprise the menu and room prices were the same as the previous night. We’d expected everything to be more expensive in the isolated villages and we’re sure they will be as we approach ABC. Gone are the days when you pretty much had to have dhal baht every night but to be honest it is always the best deal, tasty and filling.
DAY 3
Ban Thanti Hill 2660m > Tadapani 2630m > Chhomrong 2170m > Chhomrong Khola (river) 1800m > Sinuwa 2360m > Kuldhigar 2540m > Bamboo 2310m
As we left the lodge their dog decided to tag along with us; these huge Tibetan Mastiffs (we think they’re called) are well suited for life in the mountains. This particular one was very friendly but turned out to be a bit of a wimp! We encountered a large flock of sheep with their herders and sheep dogs in tow. The dogs came powering up the hill to greet our friend who promptly cowered behind my legs. The herders called the dogs off but by this point 150 head of sheep had blocked our path. I helped herd the sheep up the hill so we could get past while the dog now hid behind Steve’s legs.
Looking at the altitudes on today’s route you could easily be fooled into thinking it was a steady walk. Nepali flat it certainly was but by that I mean you go up and down many a steep path just to end up at the same height. Or to put it another way; it took us over 8hrs to end up 300m lower than we started and we were exceedingly glad to sit down. Now we know we’re not the fittest at the moment but the timings in our guide book are way off the mark. We were knocking up to an hour off the first day’s schedule but since then you’d have to be a mountain goat to achieve the times. Luckily all the teashops have painted maps of the walk including suggested times between locations. The worry was that these would be local guide/porter estimates but since taking note they seem to fit nicely to our slow plod.
We’d pre-ordered breakfast as we wanted an early start – well we are trying to do a 10-day trek in 8 days! Once again the early morning sun was glinting off the jagged peaks of the Himalayas and the huge face of Annapurna South looked ominously close. It made us realise how easily people think a peak will be attainable and set off without the correct equipment, expertise, and experience or time expectations. We supped a second hot drink whilst drinking in the views and I finally got to see why Machhapuchre is also known as Fish Tail Mountain. We didn’t linger for long as we knew we had a full day’s trekking to do where long dormant muscles would be needed.
We reached Tadapani through the beautiful rhododendron forest within an hour. We understood why some itineraries suggest staying here as the mountain vistas were even better than those we’d had at breakfast. After 4 ½ hours from the outset of today’s walk we found ourselves in Chhomrong; a very spread our village perched on slopes dominated by crop terraces. We were ready for a break so stopped at one of the first teahouses but in fact there are umpteen to choose from. As we walked through the village we were astounded to see places advertising wifi, internet cafes and German bakeries – the place was a mini Pokhara!
The steep stones steps went down, down, down to a suspension bridge over the river about 400m below. Now obviously with this being a classic Nepali flat day we had to re-ascend those 400m. Steps are a killer on the legs and we’re already not looking forward to climbing back up them on the return journey. At least from our lunchtime vantage point we could see where the first half of our afternoon’s trekking would take us. Yes it was up and yes it involved more of those steps that have a great propensity to turn your legs into jelly. But, at least we could see what was in store for us and could get mentally prepared.
The most annoying aspect of this trek is the fact that more than one place has the same name. I know I’ve mentioned it already but today it threw us out of kilter once again. On the teahouse map in Chhomrong we knew we needed to reach Sinuwa before continuing uphill. We were happy with the time we reached the village and it made us think we’d easily attain our intended destination for today. However, an hour later and 200m higher we once again found ourselves in Sinuwa – the real one this time at 2360m. I don’t think it’s fair to bamboozle trekkers in this way. It had been trying to rain and while we were harrumphing over the map and our guide a shower set in. We decided to wait and see what the clouds would do and luckily it turned out to be a brief shower. So we set off on the final leg 200m up to the high point of 2540m at Kuldhigar before plummeting 200m down to Bamboo at 2310m.
We’d been walking for over 8hrs and had put quiet a lot of strain on untrained legs but we made it. The basic lodges in Bamboo all looked to be much of a muchness so we decided to stay at Bamboo Lodge as they didn’t have any customers. The late afternoon rain pattern continued and we were once again simply happy to listen to it bouncing off the metal roof.
DAY 4
Bamboo 2310m > Himalaya 2920m > Machhapuchre Base Camp (MBC) 3700m
Today we walked a total of 6hrs but look at those figures – we ascended 1400m. At one point we hoped to press on to Annapurna base Camp (ABC) but conditions dictated otherwise. As per usual we set off in good weather with quite clear skies. We reached Himalaya in good time so stopped for a brew before continuing on to Deurali (yep, another one!) at 3200m. We arrived at this collection of teahouses 4hrs after leaving Bamboo and on the way passed through Dobhan. This village looked much nicer than Bamboo and should you find yourself in this neck of the birch woods we would recommend staying here. It’s only an hour on from Bamboo but your efforts will be rewarded with a better choice of lodges. Plus, if weather conditions allow, you’ll wake up o fabulous views of Machhapuchre towering above the valley and peaking out at 6997m.
To the best of our knowledge this peak still hasn’t been summited but people have tried. All Himalayan peaks are sacred to the indigenous peoples with some possessing more significance than others. As we all know Mount Everest is the ultimate peak which of course throws up a conflict of interests every climbing season. Intrepid explores, mountaineers and trekkers will always hunt out the next challenge giving the Everest area Sherpa communities substantial income. The local people don’t think it’s any coincidence that Everest claims numerous lives year in, year out. Apparently the last time someone tried to summit Machhapuchre was in 1957 and they were mere minutes from the top when they experiences bad karma. You can draw your own conclusions but is it fair that people come from far and wide to trample upon ancient beliefs?
Today we started by continuing on up through the birch forest whilst following the Modi Khola; a powerful river that has carved a deep gash in the valley. Along one section the forest floor was carpeted with spring blooms that I think belong to the primula family. Mums – can you help me out here? By the time we reached Deurali we’d passed the 3000m line and the density of trees began to noticeable thin. We had contemplated stopping here for lunch but decided to press on to MBC and break there.
Not long after we’d set off the odd hail stone began to bounce down. On looking back down the valley all we could see was a wall of thick grey cloud advancing in our direction. We diligently plodded on and were amazed to find that much of the track was covered in a thick layer of snow. Fortunately there were plenty of muddy footprints to follow so we were confident we wouldn’t lose the trail. Or as Steve said; “It’s just as well the Mums can’t see us now or they’d have a pink fit!” The clouds continued to billow up behind us and the hail steadily strengthened. By now we were wrapped up in our Gortex coats, had our heads down and were plodding ever upwards. About half an hour after leaving Deurali it was definitely snowing and in fact, it continued to do so all afternoon with white-outs at times. Luckily we reached MBC in the 2hrs we’d predicted where we chose to stay at Gurung Guesthouse close to the start of the ABC trail. There was no way we were going any further today and had actually attained the goal we’d initially set ourselves. We could only hope that the weather would be clear in the morning.
We ended up talking to a couple of the lads who worked in the lodge and the boss. Everyone agreed it was bitterly cold and we were delighted when the boss turned on the gas heater and invited us to share. All Nepalese people we’ve met over the years have been lovely but we seem to have regularly met exceptionally special people. The boss of Gurung Guesthouse is one such soul; he even got up early to see us off and met us at the top of the hill near his lodge on our return from ABC. That’ll make more sense when you read tomorrow’s segment! It turned out we were staying in the first lodge to be established at MBC and it’s remained in the same family for its entire 25 years.
DAY 5
MBC 3700m > ABC (South) 4130m > MBC > Himalaya 2920m > Dobhan 2520m
Usually today would have been described as summit day but unusually for us we weren’t going to the top of anything this time. That said we did achieve the highest point of this trek today and yes, the weather was in our favour. Following a quick brew and biscuit we set off at 6am just as the sun was beginning to glint off the peaks. We’d awoken to perfectly clear skies and were astounded to find ourselves slap bang in the middle of 7000m & 8000m mountains. The 1hr 30min trek up to ABC was quite gradual so it didn’t feel like we’d ascended another 400m. The early morning rays rendered the mountain faces different shades of yellow as the sun rose so many a photo break was needed.
The more we walked the more peaks came into view. In the past our treks have taken us to the top of a mountain where we’ve looked down on the range. Here we were only half way up Annapurna South 7219m and Annapurna 1 8091m with Fish Tail Mountain directly behind us. These peaks rise up from incredibly narrow, steep ravines making you feel you can reach out and touch them. This is the first time we’ve felt truly in the heart of a mountain range. Being totally surrounded by such formidable yet fantastic mastiffs is an exceptional experience. I don’t have the depth of descriptive language to do the place justice but you know that Steve has plenty of photos to share. 350 from this trek alone to be precise!
The black rocks, white snow and blue skies were in such sharp contrast with each other that it felt like we were looking at a National Geographic high definition montage. The crisp lines seemed to put everything in ultra-sharp focus. We were in an amphitheatre of majestic mountains and simply didn’t know which part to focus on at any one time. We managed to stop ourselves from spinning around so much that we made ourselves dizzy!
As stunning and incredible as it all was there was a sobering reminder as to how perilous these peaks can be. There is a memorial stupa commemorating those who have perished on the Annapurna range. Strangely enough I’d just finished reading The Beckoning Silence by Joe Simpson where he’d talked about two of the people for whom the stupa was for. Anatoli Boukreev is remembered on this stupa and this is someone Simpson had spoken about throughout his book and a person he greatly admired. A most poignant memorial.
Just as we were contemplating how treacherous yet tremendous the mountains are we heard a helicopter approaching. The conditions seemed too perfect for there to have been a catastrophe but we had heard an avalanche earlier. Much to our relief it wasn’t a rescue chopper and this one disgorged thrill seekers. First it dumped extra fuel near base camp and then took off again up to the snow clad higher slopes. Hang on a minute; there was snow everywhere – we’d trudged through fresh snow all the way from MBC to ABC. It soon became apparent what was happening; those with money and desire for an adrenalin rush were on board i.e. heli-skiers. The mountains are so enormous that watching the helicopter put it all into perspective as it looked like a gnat zipping by. Eventually we spotted some tiny specks whizzing down the pristine slopes. I can see it must be great fun but when do they get to appreciate the raw and uncompromising beauty of the valley they’re in. We’d put days of effort into reaching the same point and were finding it almost impossible to drag ourselves away.
However, we knew we had to retrace our steps and perfect weather tends not to hold for long in the mountains. Already the tops of Annapurna 1 were shrouded in a cloak of cloud. The great thing about this area is that on walking back down to MBC you get to savour the glory of Machhapuchre and friends. The adjoining ridges looked razor sharp and it’s incredible to think that anyone got so close to the summit. From our vantage point it looked like the very top would be too small for anyone to stand on. We reckon summiting would have to consist of the group taking it in turns to hug the upper pinnacle.
As we approached MBC and looked up the valley on the left yet more fabulous mountains revealed themselves. We may not have had ideal trekking conditions when getting here but at least we got to experience the entire area in all its incredible glory. It made trudging up through the blizzard all the more rewarding and to be honest it was fun in the snow too. It took us just as long to cover the distance from ABC to MBC even though it was easier going down. Why? Just one more photo! We thoroughly enjoyed running down the fresh snow; some things instantly bring out the child in you.
We paused long enough back at Gurung Guesthouse to have breakfast, pack our bags and thanked our friendly hosts. As stunning as it all was we relished the thought of being slightly warmer that night. Walking back down to Himalaya where we’d paused on the way up seemed like a different trek. We could actually see down the valley this time and got to appreciate the sheer sloped splendour of it all. As we re-entered the tree line we bid the mountains a fond farewell. An absolutely astounding morning.
Since we’d had such a great day of trekking and vista viewing we decided not to push ourselves too much. We had thought to go straight down to Sinuwa but reckoned we’d be totally shattered by the time we got there. Instead we wanted to end the day still feeling exhilarated so stopped at Dobhan where we checked into Tip Top Lodge. A real treat was in store; a hot water shower for just Rs150 a go. It was lovely to feel thoroughly clean again and we had time to bask in the afternoon sun. This was the first day we’d not met with an afternoon shower of the natural variety. The weather gauge says we could have continued but the leg gauge says it was glad of the rest. We still have a lot of Nepali flat to negotiate before enjoying the flat lanes of Pokhara!
DAY 6
Dobhan 2520m > Chhomrong 2170m > New Bridge 1340m > Tolka 1700m
This turned out to be the toughest day of the trek – steps, steps and more steps and we pushed ourselves to complete a 9 hour day. The plan? To make Day 7, the last day, a short one so we could get to Pokhara and celebrate a damn fine trek. Our guide book, despite its fictitious timings, has this down as a 10-day trek. We’d planned to do it in 8 and are delighted that we’re going to complete it in only 7. It’ll be good to have an extra day’s break between treks.
So what can I tell you about today’s walk? Not a huge amount as back to Chhomrong involved retracing our steps and I mean that literally via a stone staircase. However, this time the weather was exceptional and brief breaks involved gawping at the very mountains we’d been up close and personal with the previous day. Other than that it really was a case of covering as much ground as possible. Having to re-cross the Kimrong Khola, climb up and out of the valley to plunge into the next valley and cross the Modi Khola was where all the steps came in. It didn’t help that the new suspension bridge over the first river was closed so we had even more steps to negotiate!
Like I said we pushed on to Tolka where we stayed at International Guesthouse. Most of the prices are identical along the trail in particular room prices but food and drink is generally cheaper the closer you are to vehicular links. That’s not to say there’s a road here but mules instead of porters transport the necessary goods. The day I’ve described sounds like it was tedious but far from it as we were constantly surrounded by subliminal scenery. We stopped at the top end of Chhomrong in a place fittingly called Excellent View Lodge. It was precisely that; 1800 panorama of 7000m+ peaks. As we walked down the valley with the Modi river running through we were firmly back in farmland. For much of the train we were walking along the crop terraces following the contours of the land. Nothing could top Day 5 but each day has been rewarding and thoroughly enjoyable.
DAY 7
Tolka 1700m > Bhichok Deurali 2100m > Dhampus 1650m > Phedi 1130m
As with most treks the last day is only really half a day and we were back in Pokhara by noon. That’s not to say it was a steady stroll to the end of the trail – far from it. We set off at 7am and promptly went straight uphill to yet another Deurali. Our guide book said that this was one of the few treks where the last day was excellent as you get mountain views. Yeah – if you’re walking backwards! The Trailblazers guide we got for Ladakh was excellent but this one has let us down so far.
Basically we had to get up and over the ridge into the valley that would finally take us back down to the road. The trouble was it involved a steep 1000m descent down more of those damnable stone steps! Once again our various sources of information gave wide discrepancies as to how long this morning’s jaunt would take. We gave ourselves 4 hours; I set the pace going up and we took it in turns to encourage each other down the final long staircase. Our jelly legs wobbled onto tarmac exactly 240mins after setting off. It had been hot going so before thinking of transport back to town we supped on a juice and thought about all the people we’d passed going in the opposite direction.
As we stumbled over the road to the shop we were immediately approached by someone asking us if we wanted a taxi and it would cost Rs1000. It turned out he was a bit of a clown / tout as he didn’t even own a vehicle. In the end we jumped on a local bus which of course took a bit longer and didn’t go as far as Lakeside in Pokhara. However, it only cost Rs50 each for the bus and a taxi to the lake a further Rs200 so a saving of Rs700.
There’s absolutely no way we’d recommend starting the ABC Trek from Phedi. From there you’d have to go straight up those steep steps for 1000m. There’s a brief section of easier trekking before you’d have to go down, cross the Modi Khola and back up another 1000m of steps. I truly believe we chose the best option whereby we started in Nayapul and gradually walked up to Ghorepani. The side trip up Poon Hill was well worth the effort plus you get to feel what standing at 3000m feels like. Crossing over valleys is never easy but at least we didn’t go back down to 1000m using this route. In actual fact the easiest and most enjoyable part of the trek was once we’d left the foothills behind. Get beyond the farming communities on the lower slopes and the going gets much easier.
The other thing to note is that when you get to a village / selection of teahouses don’t immediately breathe a sigh of reiief. I’ve already mentioned the same place names reoccurring but in fact there are times when the village before the place you’re aiming towards naughtily uses the same name. No one’s actually out to hoodwink you but of course they all want a cut of the trekking action. Plus, when you do reach a village it’s often very spread out e.g. Landruk took 30mins to walk from one end to the other. Also bear in mind the homes and lodges spread out up and down the valley slopes. We learnt to walk to the far end of each place to negate a mentally unplanned for extra 30mins of trekking each morning.
With places being controlled by the Annapurna Conservation Committee it’s good to know you’ll be offered pretty much the same standard of accommodation and food and almost set prices. So no matter where you chose to rest you’ll find a good set up and it stops people banging on about ‘Recommended in the Lonely Planet’. We spent about $50 per day per couple without a guide or porter but including permits and transport. The trail is very easy to follow and every teahouse has a map with realistic timings between locations. Top Tip: invest in a decent sleeping bag that packs down small and a thermal base layer.
In conclusion this was an outstanding trek right into the heart of the Himalayas. We calculated we walked about 100kms starting at 1100m, peaking at 4130m and finishing back down at 1000m. It sounds easy but most of those ‘flat’ days involved +’s and –‘s in the several hundred meters. It was a brilliant workout for two overweight, aging buggers and has set us up nicely for our next adventure.
