Much to our delight the locals kindly shorten this to Xela (pronounced shel-la); a derivative of the ancient name for the town. It was time to move away from Christmas indulgence and lazy travelling and get back to using chicken buses. Here in Guatemala they also have the ex-American school buses but the majority of them have been customised and are more reminiscent of the colourful Pilipino jeepneys. Besides which the tourist shuttles don’t go directly from San Pedro La Laguna to Quetzaltenango and the local bus only cost us Q35 (about $4.50). The journey saw us using the Panamericana for the last time this trip; it veers west towards the Mexican border whereas we’ll be going north to Mexico via Belize.
We stayed at Kiktem-Ja Hotel which was quite basic but had exuded some old world charm. It was set around a courtyard with flower boxes lining the upstairs central veranda and lots of wooden floors, beams and furniture. At $20 a night with an excellent central location we found it good value. More importantly there was always someone on hand to unlock the main doors early in the morning. This was vital as we knew there’d be some early starts for us.
Quetzaltenango is quite a large, functional town but it has an attractive centre as I have mentioned on numerous occasions about umpteen places. However, we weren’t here for the town, we were here to trek and had booked 2 one-day volcano treks and a 2-day hike with Monte Verde Tours. They were very competitively priced and Steve got a good gut instinct for the place from the e-mail conversation he’d had with the owner Josh. It transpired that we had indeed made the correct choice as another outfit in town, Quetzal Trekkers, was more geared towards young’uns. That’s not a problem but we didn’t want to do the party trek. We also learnt that they don’t support local community projects and have actually been banned from one indigenous village in the mountains. Anyway, let’s get to our 4 days of trekking giving much needed exercise for our increasingly rotund and decreasingly fit bodies!
Volcan Santa Maria 3772m
This morning saw us being collected from the hotel at 4.45am by our guide Byron whom we later learned would be with us for the 3 separate hikes. It was only a short drive out of town to the start of the trail and the sun was just beginning to dawn as we set off. Xela is situated at 2360m in a large plateau that was formed when the area’s volcanoes were still actively carving out the landscape. Our trail up Santa Maria began at 2400m and the path quickly ascended through a beautiful forest. Although we were in amongst the trees we often got glimpses of the surrounding area and initially we could see the morning’s cloud blanketing Xela and the large valley it sits in.
As we climbed so did the sun and it quickly burnt off the cloud cover affording increasingly attractive views of the area. Basically Xela’s high altitude plateau is surrounded by ancient, dormant volcanic peaks. Within 3 hours and good going according to our guide, we climbed almost 1400m and reached the summit of Volcan Santa Maria. The walk up had been quite steep and we’d found it tough going but at least we did it and did it in reasonable time. We calculated that we’d ascended at a rate of about 400m per hour which isn’t to be sniffed at. It was great to get the trekking heart, lungs and muscles going but made us realise how much fitness we’d lost in the last couple of months. Four days of trekking in-between Christmas and New Year was looking increasingly inspired! The only negative aspect of this walk is the amount of graffiti and litter to be found on the summit. It’s lovely that locals enjoy their mountains but why do they have to mar the scenery thus? Can they not see that they’re making something beautiful ugly? When you then learn that the mountains are sacred and form the basis of many of the ancient stories it makes even less sense. Enough said.
By now the weather was perfect. We had crisp, clear skies and could see for miles – all the way to Mexico in fact. In one direction we could see the volcanic peaks that dominate the area around Lake Atitlan where we’d just come from. In the opposite direction we could see the range of peaks that include Volcan Tajumulco and our destination for the following day. It goes down as one of the best panoramic views we’ve experienced from the top of a peak. What made it even better was that from the summit we could look down into the smoking crater of Volcan Santiaguito. This newest cone is very active but at the moment is only billowing clouds of fumes and not issuing forth lava. We’ve now been on, and looked at, many of the world’s volcanoes but we’ve yet to see lava. In fact we were told that none of Guatemala’s volcanoes and lava active at present so we’ll have to save that treat for another trip – somewhere!
Descending is just as tough as going up but without the rewards of achieving a summit. It might be easier on the lungs but it’s hard on the knees and after a while becomes tedious. Again it was good to reawaken these muscles and we finished the walk feeling quite exhausted but invigorated.
Volcan Tajumulco 4220m
This morning saw the bleary-eyed porter unlocking the door for us at 4am – poor chap! A van had been arranged to meet us today as we had over 2 hours to drive to the start of the trail. Besides which it turned out there were 7 of us in all making a bid to summit the highest point in Central America. Not that we had any doubts that we would make it to the top, but Byron had given us the low statistics on successful summits for both of these volcanoes. It seems people holiday in Guatemala without ever having done any serious hiking before and think they’ll be able to skip up to 4000m. And, people are surprised that it’s cold – 4000m in Siberia or in the tropics is going to be cold. I’m not going to get into a rant about the direct correlation between more information being available and people’s stupidity!
Today’s trek started at 3000m so the ascent would be slightly less at 1200m; however, Byron informed us that the trail was much longer at 7kms. The Lonely Planet reckoned it would take 5 hours, the guide had pencilled in 4 but in the end we were on the top within 2hrs 45mins. It was great to be in a group where we were all of around the same fitness levels but yet again the fat, old folk got to the summit first. In fact one of our group never made it to the top as she was a member of that group of people who completely underestimate mountains. We didn’t enjoy this walk as much as it seemed a longish slog through not very inspiring scenery – just a thin covering of mature pines. Added to which it was the most popular time of the year for locals to camp out and generally have fun on the summit. There was a constant stream of people descending as we were going up so we hoped the top would be quiet.
Far from it – there must have been 1000 people on the mountain that day and most had camped overnight. I’ll let you imagine how litter strewn the campsite and summit were. Surprisingly the top wasn’t anywhere near and dirty as Volcan Santa Maria’s summit as it was blowing a gale up there, so most of the rubbish had been carried away on the wind. However, groups of young’uns letting of fire crackers somewhat detracted from the natural beauty of the area. I know it’s not our place to dictate to others how to respect and care for their country, but we didn’t feel the celebrations were linked to culture, religion or tradition. That said the views from the top were great but not spectacular like the previous day. Mind you it didn’t help that the gale force wind kept blowing dust and grit into our eyes and made the experience mighty chilly.
Once again we were very pleased with the time we’d taken to reach the top and it was a great knowing that we’d summited the highest point of Central America.
Xela to Lago Atitlan Trek - Sun 30th Dec & Mon 31st Dec 2012
DAY 1
A lie-in today as we didn’t have to be at the office until 7am and the night porter seemed relieved to discover we’d run out of treks to do! At Monte Verde Tour’s office we discovered we were to be a group of 5 and while bags were being sorted Josh (the owner) rustled up some coffee. We were dismayed to find the food for the next 2 days was being divvied out making our packs heavier than we would wish for. However, we were pleased it wasn’t just the two of us as we knew that night’s accommodation was a homestay in an indigenous village. As you know we’re not very good at that sort of thing and being part of a group would allow us to slink into the background. We were delighted to see that our excellent, caring and very knowledgeable guide Byron was with us once again. Mind you his joke / catchphrase; “cinco minutos mas!” was already starting to wear thin!
Josh drove us the short distance to the start of the trek at Xecam (2400m) on the outskirts of the city. We bid him farewell and he said he’d see us the following afternoon, with the rest of our luggage, in San Pedro La Laguna. The village dirt road soon petered out into a track and as we continued it became clear there was a network of paths in the area. The locals use these paths as the short, easy route into town and then get a pick-up back to their villages. Not only is a guide necessary to ensure you choose the correct route but he’s very good at setting the necessary pace in relation to the group’s ability and amount of daylight. Even more importantly, we feel it’s vital to have a local intermediary with you when you’re staying in remote villages with indigenous peoples.
Byron set a good steady pace with just enough short respites to take a swig of water and a couple of photos. For the first couple of hours we walked up a forested hillside and emerged above the tree-line at Pacorral; a grassy / farmland plateau. Following a further slight incline we found ourselves at 3100m and atop Mount Alaska. Apparently the local’s gave the area it’s slightly incongruous name as it is always cold up there. On leaving the village we began a long, steep descent that would eventually take us to a river 2000m below. Initially we again walked through forestland and after a couple of hours met a jeep track or the road as the local’s ambitiously call it. Apparently the one we crossed would eventually lead you down to the sea but we weren’t finished with mountains yet.
Another hour or so later we stopped in Chirijximay for our picnic lunch. Unfortunately it turned out Steve had the dinner provisions and I the breakfast supplies so our packs weren’t lightened for the afternoon. Once we were suitable stated and rested it was time to continue going down, down. After a further couple of hours all of our downhill muscles were starting to scream and constantly checking your footing was becoming most tedious. One of our group, Erik, started to get terrible pains in his knees and we all felt for him as the 2000m descent seemed interminable. Obviously we did eventually reach the river and from there we knew it was only half an hour to that night’s digs – up hill. The knees and legs were delighted for the change in terrain but it was a mighty steep final slog up the hill for a well-earned rest.
We spent the night in the tiny hamlet of Comon oj perched on a steeply sided ridge at 1200m and in the middle of nowhere. The family were very warm and welcoming with huge smiles all round – the children in particular seemed happy to see Byron. Luckily Erik’s sister Kirsten and the final member of our group, Stephanie, were more than comfortable / happy to do all the communicating and interacting. With Steve and I being embarrassingly unable to do so!
As we were sitting in the communal kitchen supping a cup of coffee the whole place started to move. The area has had numerous earthquakes over the last 6 months with some of them causing much damage and loss of homes. The government was quick to say compensation would be given but slow to come up with the goods – like no one’s had a bean. Luckily the planet was just having a little burp while we were in the vicinity and not so much as a cup tumbled to the earthen floor. These warm-hearted folk truly do live in humble abodes with little in the way of material possessions. The kitchen was extremely rustic with an uneven dirt floor and a very simple block built fire pit for cooking. That said the simple meal that was rustled up was nourishing and tasty and for once Steve and I didn’t feel as uncomfortable as we usually do in these situations.
However, as kind as it was for the family to vacate a room for us to sleep in – concrete floors have never been warm and are even less comfortable. We spent the night tossing and turning trying in vain to find an acceptable sleeping position. The setting of alarms was a superfluous activity!
DAY 2
Even if we had managed to get some sleep the cockerels ensured no-one slept in! Then the dogs started barking, the birds started chirping, the pigs started snorting …………… we’re up! We’d seen the ridge route we’d be taking the following day and Byron had warned us that the section over the landslide was a bit tricky. What we hadn’t realised was that we’d be on a jeep dirt track not a path so it was only treacherous for vehicles. On hindsight it didn’t make sense that the path was clearly visible from so far away! The walking was steady with the path, then track undulating without putting strain on lungs or knees.
By midmorning we’d reached civilisation again and found ourselves walking through the town of Santa Maria located at around 1800m. Here we took quite a long rest while Byron explained the huge mural painted upon a wall in the main square. Basically it depicted a brief history of the area dating from the ancient tribal peoples, through Spanish inquisition, independence, civil war and finally the hopes and aspirations for the future. It was all very interesting and once again our guide proved himself to be very informative but to be honest we just wanted to press on. It turned out he was partly killing time as we reached Santa Clara where we had lunch way too early. It was pleasant enough talking about the trekking we’d done and the family who were preparing our meal were very welcoming.
Following a very tasty, slap up meal we were asked if we would like to make a slight detour on the way back to San Pedro La Laguna and pop up to the Indian’s nose. The bloke whose home we were in also has a part share in the land we would walk through and offered to take us up for Q10 each i.e. half price. The trouble was we’d all tucked into his tasty nosh with gusto thinking we didn’t have any more steep inclines to tackle. Plus there was Erik’s knee to think about – up was fine but it didn’t seem fair to subject him to more steep descents. The four of us shrugged our shoulders and didn’t commit one way or the other so we left it to Stephanie to make a decision - she voted we go up.
In the end it was an excellent choice as the views overlooking Lake Atitlan and the surrounding mountains were superb. Our temporary guide set off at a virtual trot but Steve and I were determined to keep up. It might have only been 15mins or so but it was straight up on full bellies! The first look-out finds you standing on the Indian’s mouth then you leg it up another knoll and onto his sneck. Steve couldn’t see the image when we were first in San Pedro but it got it the second time. Basically you have to imagine a huge Indian lying flat on his back making the contours of the hill resemble his profile. Once we’d all had our fill of the view and taken sufficient photos it was time to finally finish the trek. We walked through corn fields along the ridge and then descended into coffee plantations before reaching San Juan. From there it was a few kilometres down the road into San Pedro and we suggested Erik should jump in a tuc-tuc but he wasn’t going to be defeated. In fact Josh passed us in his van so Erik blagged a lift and skipped the boring road bit. Mind you he made amends by greeting us in San Pedro armed with a bag full of hop pop. We all grabbed a tin to toast the end of the trek and to wish each other all the best in the New Year.
All told we’d had 4 excellent days of walking with a brilliant guide and had once again met some lovely people. The first volcano afforded us the best views in Guatemala, the second got us to the top of Central America and the 45km walk re-awakened our desire to do long treks. Nepal here we come!
We would highly recommend Josh and Monte Verde Tours for trekking around Xela. http://www.monte-verdetours.com/index.htm
We arrived back in San Pedro rather later than we’d hoped so opted to stay instead of moving across the lake to Panajachel. Even though it was New Year’s Eve people were handing out flyers advertising rooms so we knew we’d find something. As luck would have it the first place that we came to that looked suitable worked out just fine and we stayed 2 nights. Hotel Nahual Maya had spotlessly clean, spacious rooms with balcony at the only slightly inflated price of Q175 ($22). Hotels prices in Guatemala are controlled by the tourist board that set the maximum price a room is to be offered for. Obviously places quote this maximum price and in most cases it’s fair. We didn’t feel adding a Q25 premium late doors on a bank holiday was unreasonable especially since it still made the room a great deal.
We’ve never spent Christmas and New Year in the same place. Although since we stayed out of town the first time it did feel different and this time we didn’t have a kitchen. We still can’t tell you much about the numerous cafes and restaurants as choosing somewhere wasn’t very easy. They were either having loud parties or were shut so we ended up snacking on tex-mex style fayre. In the end we retreated to our balcony with a bottle of wine to watch the fireworks and see in the New Year. There was even less open the following day so we never did get to treat ourselves to a nice meal. However, a tour operator was open so we booked our shuttle bus tickets to Rio Dulce. We’re actually headed north towards the ruins at Tikal and then Belize but this sounded like a nice spot to break up the journey.
Early the next morning we bid San Pedro La Laguna a final, fond farewell.
