The
group turned out to be much, much bigger than we’d expected at 24. On talking to other they were as surprised as
us and in general people are more used to walking in smaller groups. Obviously the beginning of the day involved
lots of messing about and hanging around but we finally got trekking.
We
had to get up at 4am to catch the bus to take us the 90km to Mollepata (2900m)
and the trailhead. This was also the
‘not included’ breakfast stop and much faffing before we got going. We were split into 2 groups but we soon
amalgamated and then fragmented into 3 ability groups. At first it looked like we’d been basically
split into Spanish and English speaking groups but on hindsight it was by
age. We reckon the idea was that the
young’uns would be fitter and it just so happened that they all spoke English
too. That left us in the older therefore
slower, predominantly Spanish speaking group; they got us wrong on both
counts! There were some sound people in
the front group that had naturally formed so despite the large number of us we
were sure it would all work out. It
appeared that some people were trekking for the first time so were finding the
hills at altitude tough. It turned out
that Steve & I were the oldest but the most experienced at trekking at
altitude. Fancy that!
Anyway
let’s get to the trek. Initially we
followed the road (i.e. dirt track) out of the village that steadily wound its
way up the nearest hill. We found
ourselves in amongst the lushest vegetation we’d seen since leaving
Malaysia. That said we weren’t stuck in
dense jungle as had views looking up and down the valleys. Clouds were looming not far above our heads
and as we got higher it looked like we would meet up with them. Luckily as we
ascended so did the cloud bank and in fact the weather steadily improved
throughout the day.
The
trekking wasn’t very strenuous so we got plenty of time to take in the
views. At times the group was so spread
out our break stops were too long waiting for everyone to catch up so we
started to feel cold. It was actually
warm while walking and we sweated for the first time since leaving KL! As we rounded a bend following the end of the
day’s uphill section we were faced with a steep sided valley dominated by a
snow-capped peak at its head. This
glacier clad sharp pointy peak has never been summited but of course people
have tried. From the look of it the
ridges make the one we were perched upon on Sajama resemble a dual carriageway!
The
path then descended gradually down into the valley where we stopped at Cruzpata
(3400m) for lunch. This involved quite a
long break but fortunately the sun was out.
From there it was a steady walk along the ‘road’ to our campsite at
Soraypampa (3900m). We were now in the
crux of two valleys with the head of the second valley being dominated by Mount
Salkantay (6264m). An incredibly
stunning peak and yet again this glacier smothered mountain hasn’t been
conquered. We were told that this night
would be the coldest of the trek which makes sense since it’s the highest
campsite on the route. Apparently
temperatures regularly drop to -50C and we could see that if the
wind was blowing down from the ice and glaciers. The good news was that all the tents were
erected under a corrugated metal roof with a huge tarpaulin wrapped round to
form a shelter. Obviously not as warming
as bricks and mortar but it certainly limited the breeze blowing through.
There
were quite a few big groups camped around so goodness only knows how mobbed the
original and more popular Inca trail feels.
There are probably around 70 people a day on the Salkantay trek but we
were led to believe that there are 500 a day starting the Inca trail in peak
season. One group we kept passing were
on the ultimate luxury trekking tour.
They were staying in what looked like fabulous lodges and their eating
stops were made of sterner stuff than ours.
Mind you it was costing them US$3500 a head for their 6-day trek; more
than a month’s travel allowance for us.
Tents will do just fine!
Tomorrow
sees the toughest day’s trekking as we climb up to a pass at 4650m after
breakfast. Considering two of our group
resorted to jumping in a truck for the last (and easiest) part of today’s walk
I’m sure they will be taking advantage of the horses that are on standby. It’ll cost them an extra Soles 90 each and it
seems mighty unfair to ask a pony to carry you up sure high, steep slopes. All will be revealed tomorrow.
DAY 2
As
per usual with these camping treks we didn’t get very much sleep last night so
having to get up at 5am wasn’t a problem.
To be fair we were brought bed-tea but I know Steve would have preferred
Tetley’s with milk and sugar on the side rather than black coca tea. Breakfast turned out to be minimal
considering we were about to walk up to 4650m with an ascent of 750m. Unfortunately it was cloudy when we set off
so we were glad we’d taken all our mountain photos the previous evening. It looked momentarily like the sun was going
to win but we ended up walking up to the top in cloud and mist.
The
ascent wasn’t too bad; just two long sections of steepish up with a flatter
section in the middle to give you a breather.
Obviously our now well established breakaway lead group got to the top
first. The drawback to that meant we
spent on hour on the top in the gloom gradually getting way too cold. We had to wait for everyone else (including
those on ponies) to get there so the guides could explain a bit about how the
Inca’s divided their region. They also
told us more about the importance of Pachamama with how and why offerings are
made. We then made our own offering of
coca leaves and everyone added a stone to make a group mini cairn. Whilst placing the stone we were told to make
a wish; we knew this was going to happen and had been told to carry a stone up
from base camp. I think I was the only
one daft enough to carry two stones to the top so maybe only our wishes will
come true!
While
we were on the top of the pass we heard a huge rumble that sounded distinctly
like thunder; the weather was grim enough without a storm rolling in to soak us
all. It turned out that we’d heard an
avalanche and were extremely grateful that it hadn’t fallen our way. As we descended the other side we kept hoping
we’d drop below the cloud line. Two
hours later and 700m lower we were still hoping. Following some not very inspiring food we set
off down towards that night’s campsite another 1000m below us. We hit the tree line and although it felt a
little warmer we were still in thick mist.
The
vegetation gradually thickened and the spring flowers brightened up the
gloom. Without views to keep us
entertained one of the guides informed us about some of the local plants and
flowers. It was lovely to see some
orchids in bloom and we saw 5 different varieties but even more exciting was
spotting 3 different species of hummingbirds.
We arrived at camp at Colpapampa (2800m) and the lowest point we’ve been
since leaving Argentina. We’d walked
about 21kms to get there so a good day’s walk and for most of our group one of
the longest and most challenging day’s trek they’ve ever done. Plus for most of them when they were at the
top of the pass that was the highest point they’d ever stood. So everyone was full of beans at the campsite
and it was good to feel warm. However,
the glimmer of sun we’d had on the last stretch of the walk disappeared so we
had to face reality; it was going to be a cold, damp night.
Tonight’s
campsite was set in the confluence of two steeply sided narrow ravines and in
fact we’d been able to hear a fast flowing river for most of the descent; the
Salkantay River. It was good to finally
get a glimpse of the water source that is feeding the high montane forest. Tomorrow we descend further into the jungle
but the going will be much steadier giving me plenty of time to take in the
plants and flowers. Plus; look for
creatures.
DAY 3
Today
turned out to be a non-starter of a day.
We were awoken an hour later at 6am (a lie in!) but had still finished
trekking by midday. Granted it was
lovely walking down through the high level forest learning more about the
plants and tasting some local passion fruit.
Plus we were following the narrow, thunderous Rio Santa Teresa. However, once the path met the road we were
shoved into a van and driven 10mins down the track to Playa (2400m) and
lunch. Why couldn’t we have walked that
section? It’s hardly the M1! To add insult in injury not long past Playa
we passed the start of the Inca path we’ll be taking tomorrow; so why not camp
in Playa? It didn’t make sense to be
driven all the way down to camp in the town of Santa Teresa (1900m) to then be
bussed back up the next morning. We would
have survived a night on our own!
On
the plus side the weather was glorious all day – please, please let it continue
to be fine and clear for the next two days.
Despite the cold water supply it was actually warm enough to have a
shower so we didn’t ping as much. The
campsite was set among various fruit trees that attracted lots of little
birds. Everyone else went to the hot
springs so we had the place to ourselves to relax and read.
That
evening a campfire was lit but we left that and the dancing to the
young’uns. That’s not to say we were our
usual anti-social selves, we were with a great bunch of people and it was the
first time we’d had chance to get to know everyone a bit better. Anyway the Uruguayans bought a round of
beers, then Brazil joined in and there was no way England were going to look
like spongers! It was great banter and
we were once again relieved and happy to have been allocated such a good group
– we even made some new friends. Hi Brett! Next thing we knew it was midnight and us trekkers
had to get up at 5am; sleeping bags were hastily crawled into.
The
group was now split with our splinter group of 7 doing the extra trek to a
lesser Inca site at Llactapata. No one
else had been told about this option so it was great that others wanted to join
us – I hope the company tell future customers about this option. There was another group walking down the road
and railway line and the third group, the walking wounded, would be bussed to
the railway line. We knew we’d all be
together in the hostel in Aguas Calientes so we didn’t have to do the farewells
just yet.
DAY 4
This
turned out to be the best day’s trekking and the longest at 22kms. Since we’d insisted that this detour take
place (we’d already paid extra) the option was opened to all and as I said 5
more chose to join us. That was great
news for us as the guides couldn’t then retract the option saying two people
wasn’t enough. Anyway we got bussed back
to the trailhead and set foot on this section of the Inca trail at 7am.
The
Incas knew / thought about path erosion long before the rest of the world. Their routes are paved with flat stones and
shored up with dry stone walls resulting in them still being in excellent
working order to this day. They liked to
put steps in the steep parts so at times it can feel tougher than walking up a
mountain. They were also very good at
following the natural contours of the land so the paths tend to gradually
rise. It took us just over 2 hours to
reach the high point of the walk at 2800m and it really hadn’t felt like we’d
ascended 700m.
The
path was very quiet as few companies offer this section plus our guide Edwin (a
common name in these parts – this was our 4th guide christened thus)
ensured we were ahead of any groups using the trail. The Inca site at Llactapata is only small but
it was set in fantastic, wooded, mountainous scenery. From there we could see way across the
valleys and could actually see a section of Machu Picchu in the distance. It gave us really good perspective of where
this famous site was located and just how inaccessible it is. Fortunately everyone who chose to join us
enjoyed the experience and were glad they’d accompanied us.
The
path then plummeted down to the river and it was so steep we could now easily
believe we’d climbed 700m that morning.
We then followed the river to a huge hydro-electric plant. As we neared the industrialized zone we
passed a very impressive and mighty powerful waterfall. There were signs telling us not to stop due
to freak bursts of water flow but of course we couldn’t resist taking
photos. It’s not often you see a
waterfall gushing out of a hole in the side of a mountain. As we were looking up a huge rock was
jettisoned from the cave mouth and bounced and bashed its way down the vertical
rock face. Instead of moving as the sign
suggested we all stood and stared; mesmerised by the force of nature. The staff who monitor the area (and wear
hardhats) weren’t impressed and ushered us along.
Following
our packed lunch we actually got to walk on flat ground – a rare event in these
parts. The path followed the rail line
down to Aguas Calientes where we were at the oxygen rich levels of 2000m. It was a long, hot 11km plod but we were
still surrounded by steep vertical mountain sides and thick vegetation.
In
town we were quickly allocated rooms in Ollantay guesthouse which was basic but
clean with aguas calientes (hot water).
Unfortunately we were told we’d have to wait for the 5.20pm train for
our bags to arrive. That left us with a
couple of hours to wander around the purpose built town but actually we just
wanted to grab a shower and put on our cleaner clothes. Oh well, it was better than carrying our
stuff all day and the train duly pulled into town at the allotted time and we
were reunited with our bags. That gave
us all just enough time to get washed and changed before meeting up for our
final meal together. After the meal we
received our Machu Picchu and train tickets and swapped contact details – see I
told you we hadn’t been antisocial this time!
Early to bed for a 4am rise to get up to the wonder in time for sunrise.
DAY 5
On
most treks the final day isn’t very exciting and can actually just be a long,
tedious walk out of the area and back to town.
Not so with this one – we had Machu Picchu to explore. About 20mins walk from town we passed through
a ticket and passport checkpoint before crossing the bridge and ascending the
1700 steps to the wonder. The path is
pretty steep as you go up 400m elevation but it only took 40mins to get to the
main gate. Our group assembled here
ready for the 1 ½ hour long guided tour of the ancient site.
Our
guides (Edwin and Nico) were very informative as they had been for the duration
of the trek and it was good to learn more about the place. The tour was just long enough without
information overload and this was the final service the guides would
provide. Following group photos and
final farewells we all went our separate way to explore at our leisure. We’d booked tickets to go up Huaynapicchu so
we’d be able to look down on Machu Picchu; just being in the place wasn’t
enough for us! Our pass wasn’t valid
until 10am so we wandered around the maze like paths concentrating on what
would have been the residential area.
The ultimate room with a view.
That’s
the beauty of Machu Picchu; it’s not just the ruins themselves that are worth
seeing it’s the whole setting. How they
managed to design, shape and physically build everything on such a precipitous
ledge is mind boggling. Some of the crop
terracing goes down vertical slopes and again they had though carefully about
water gathering and storage. What amazes
me is that terracing was used way back then but it’s not a system you see in
use on crop farms today in Peru.
We
kept looking over towards Huaynapicchu wondering how on earth we were going to
get to the top. It transpired the
extremely steep path / steps followed a gully up the middle of the mountain
face. There are only 200 people allowed
up twice a day and it’s just as well as there is very little space on the
boulder strewn summit. We found a less
precarious perch from which to admire the views of Machu Picchu and the
surrounding mountains and valleys. From
this vantage point we got a greater sense of scale and just how well positioned
the town was. There was no way the enemy
was going to be able to creep up on you but to make doubly sure they’d build
lookout and guard posts. Hence the steps
going up this steep side mountain.
On
descending Huaynapicchu we walked up to the main guard house on the edge of the
town. From here we got to see the
classic picture postcard view of Machu Picchu and it makes an excellent, free
alternative to going up the mountain. We
spotted a sign pointing to an Inca bridge so we went to have a look. Considering all the fantastic buildings we’d
been admiring all morning we were expecting a rather splendid stone
bridge. Sure enough this section of the
Inca trail was as shored up and solid as the rest including building walls down
sheer rock faces. The bridge turned out
to be a plank of wood over a gap – mighty disappointing.
Steve
decided we hadn’t yet seen Machu Picchu from every angle and since this was a
once in a lifetime visit we needed to walk up to the sun gate. This is at the opposite end of the site from
the mountain we’d climbed up earlier and marks the entrance to the wonder if
you’re on the traditional Inca trail.
Once again it was worth the effort but by now we were quite exhausted –
it turned out to be the toughest day’s trekking!
By
3pm we’d done and seen all we wanted and bearing in mind we’d been there since
6am we felt we’d given it plenty of attention.
It took about an hour to track down the exit, descend the steps, walk
back into town and order a beer! Machu
Picchu has been on our wish list for many a long year and it took some time for
it to sink in that we’d explored it. Our
train didn’t leave until 7pm so we didn’t reach Ollantaytambo until 9pm where
we transferred onto a bus and another 2 hours to Cuzco. It had been a long, long tiring day but well
worth all the effort and expense.
Travel info:
We booked our trek through http://www.amazonwildlifeperu.com/ but they were really just an agent for www.salkantaytrailperu.com so go direct to them but do ask for the trek to go via Llactapata as it is a great days walk. The trek was well organised and the guides were great but the groups were way too big! Also pay the extra $10 to go up Huaynapichu mountain or Machu Pichu mountain for ace views of the ruins.
