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Steve and Emma's Travel Tales

Real Travel Starts Here: Entering Bolivia!

BOLIVIA | Thursday, 26 July 2012 | Views [545]

On re-emerging from the hostel yesterday afternoon we walked into brilliant sunshine and blue skies.  That led to us having to retake some of the photos!  It bodes well for tomorrow’s trip to the border – will we finally get to see those mountains?

We did indeed find a nice café for our last meal in Argentina – the usual meat and chips but this time we got a big plate of salad too.  We decided not to go for the wine as we were enjoying the local Salta lager.  Back at the hostel the intention was to have one final beer but ended up having a couple.  It wasn’t our fault as: a) people started talking to us and b) it was only 10 pesos for a litre bottle – that’s less than 2 of your UK pounds!  Obviously we were still up and at’em as we had our bus to the border to catch.

The bus departed bang on time and once again Steve had booked us front row seats upstairs so we had a cracking view. The weather?  Well it was still dark when we set off but we could see stars so the omens were good.  In fact we were blessed with brilliant weather right the way to Tupiza and our first port of call in Bolivia.  Once the sun rose we could see that we were headed towards a mountain range.  It still wasn’t The Andes but hey who cares?!  By the time we reached Jujuy (the last major town on the Argentinian side and within 300kms of the border) we could see mountain range upon mountain range.  This is what we came for and of course brilliant sunshine and clear blue skies help too.

We travelled through some splendid scenery with the landscape littered with classic mid-west, cowboy flick style cacti and mad rock formations.  The rocks are a multitude of predominantly pink and green hues with clumps of wispy grasses dotted around.  We were travelling alongside a very wide, flat, almost dry river bed with mountains and valleys in all directions.  Hang on – throw red, yellow, grey and brown onto the rock formations palette please.  If all bus journeys were as amazing as this one people would seriously question the wisdom of flying.  Around 100kms from the border we got our first glimpse of The Andes with snow on the highest peaks.  We also spotted our first llamas (domesticated) and we’re sure there were flamingos in a distant body of water.  Just what we’d hoped for and then some.

At the border town of Al Quiaca we were surprised that climbing a short flight of steps took our breath away.  Now I know we’ve been very indulgent in recent weeks but we can’t have lost all the fitness so soon.  Ah, that explains it - the sign tells us we’re at 3443m and considering we climbed up quite quickly on the bus we’ll need time to acclimatise.  In fact the bus completed its journey just over an hour ahead of schedule, plus we gained an hour by simply walking over the border.  We love walking over borders and this one by was far and away the calmest we’ve ever encountered.  Getting stamped out of Argentina took minutes and immigration on the Bolivian side was relaxed too.  We simply filled out a bog standard arrival / departure card and chief stamped us into Bolivia for 30 days i.e. no visa and no expense.

Even wandering around town on the Bolivian side was hassle free; we’d expected money changers to pounce on us but in actual fact we had to hunt for the Casas de Cambio that wasn’t having a siesta!  The bus station was straight up the main street and as luck would have it a Tupiza bound bus spied us, pulled up and we hopped on.  We’d read that this part of the journey would take about 3 hours but we didn’t care as we’d gained a couple of hours and knew we’d go through some more fantastic scenery.  In reality the roads have improved and we reached town in only 2 hours.  All-in-all we were checking into La Torres Hotel http://www.latorretours-tupiza.com/reviews.html 3 hours earlier than we’d planned, in daylight and with time to get our bearings.  La Torres is a great little hotel right in the centre of a very quiet town.  We splashed out on a room with private facilities and it’s turned out to be a steal at only US$25 a night including a simple but ample breakfast.

 

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