Steve and Emma's Travel Tales

We recently went back to Bangkok for 2 nights actually, but I bet you’ve got this 80s hit running through your head now! Can you remember who sang it? You will have to read to the end of my ramblings to find the answer. We lived in Bangkok for over 2 years and after that length of time; it was time to move on due the dreadful traffic and pollution, the seedy side of things and my working days and hours not fitting in with Emma’s. Yes, contrary to popular belief, I have been working for most of my 10 years in Asia!

However, we love to go back for a weekend now and again, to visit old haunts and sample the delicious Thai food in what is one of Asia’s most exciting cities. So, when Air Asia had free flights up for grabs, we couldn’t say no. Yep, bagged free flights again, gotta love Air Asia. The anti-government protests by the ‘red shirts’ had just begun, but that didn’t put us off and we were soon touching down at Bangkok’s new airport (well new since we lived there). For once we got through immigration quickly, but it is a shame that no one has informed the immigration officers that Thailand is ‘the land of smiles’! Got a good run into town and were checking into @ Home Silom not 30 minutes later. We usually stay on Sukhumvit but thought we’d try the Silom area for a change. The staff were very friendly; the room was great and a steal at only THB 1500. No time to hang around though as all that scrumptious Thai food was out on them there streets. Another bonus of the hotel is that it is only 5 minutes walk to the main bar and restaurant area (Patpong/Sala Daeng), so we were soon tucking into noodle soup at a street stall with a beer from the 7-11. The great thing about the street stalls is that you put on your own condiments, so Emma can avoid her Asian nemesis – nam pla/balachan aka fish sauce/shrimp paste. Eating street food is also dirt cheap and you get to watch the world go by; there is always something happening on the streets of Bangkok. After a couple of beers it was time to head back to the room as we were going to be tourists for the day tomorrow.

Up fairly early, after a bedroom brew of course, and out in search of brekkie. @ Home Silom is only a small hotel (16 rooms), so no restaurant. Unfortunately, Silom is pretty dead in the mornings so we headed down Thanon Silom towards the river. The best way to travel in Bangkok is by express river boat on the mighty Chao Phraya River. The original plan was to hire a long tail boat and explore the klongs (canals). However, we were a bit peckish so decided to head towards the Grand Palace to grab breakfast before looking at the Palace which we believed was only open in the morning. The trip up the river is great as you can watch the various crafts going up and down and view the sights such as Wat Arun on the way. We soon arrived at the Grand Palace stop and found an Au Bon Pan for a brew and some scran. Yeah, yeah, I know, another chain but I wasn’t up for cockroach and Chang (extra strong Thai beer) first thing in the morning, as that was the street food option! Mind you, at least it wasn’t Starbucks, so Emma’s record of never having been in a Starbucks was still intact. Saying that, I shouldn’t have gone into Au Bon Pan either, after losing half a tooth to a sandwich in the Silom branch a few years ago. My advertising contract with Colgate was almost cancelled cos of this! Fed and watered, we walked over the road to enter the Grand Palace. I was attired in shorts due to the 40 degree heat, so had to queue up for a pair of strides as I didn’t want to offend royalty with my fat hairy legs. Culturally sensitively clad in a pair of striking purple pants we were free to enter, well not actually free as it cost 350 Simpsons. It is however, well worth it, even though I have been in a few times before I was glad we came again. It ain’t called the Grand Palace for nothing you know! Amazing golden stupas, ornate temples, huge warrior dudes guarding entrances and the tiny Emerald Bhudda (actually Jade according to Emma) all make it a fascinating place. We spent a couple of hours wandering around and taking photos as our last visit was pre-digital. Sadly, I had to give my purple pants back and time had flown so much that we had to forgo the klong trip (we have done it several times before) and head to Khao San Road for more eating.

Khao San is a short walk across Sanam Luang (Royal Field) from the Grand Palace and the ‘red shirts’ had made it their protest HQ. On this sunny morning though it was eerily quiet with just a few riot police loitering on street corners and some tents set up with a few red shirts sitting about eating. We learned that they had marched off to another area of town to vent their spleen at the government. Khao San is the main backpacker area which has mushroomed since we first went there in 1998. Back then, we actually missed the road when trying to find it and stayed in a room for about 150 B. Cheap yes, but we couldn’t both be out of bed at the same time! Now Khao San is not just a road but a whole area of guesthouses, bars, restaurants and markets and there are even up-market hotels as it seems there are more dragpackers than backpackers these days. It is a place you can’t take seriously but it is good for food and a beer while enjoying world class people watching. Hours of endless fun watching people carry ridiculous amounts of luggage about and inappropriate souvenirs (think huge triangular cushions and pointed Vietnamese hats). You also get some special characters who should have gone home years ago, the so-called ‘Chang Victims’ and they can be fun to watch until they sit down and strike up a conversation. We had some spring rolls and a beer and I bought some t-shirts before we headed to our favourite part of Khao San. Behind the Wat at the bottom end of Khao San Road is another road which was like a quiet Khao San really (we never knew the name but called it Soi squirrel due to there being lots of squirrels). We have always enjoyed a beer in the Gecko Bar (cheapest in the area) whilst wolfing down grilled chicken and sticky rice from the street stall opposite. So that’s what we did. This street now is all nicely paved and there are loads of places and stalls, now Khao San 2 I guess, but the Gecko bar is still the same friendly place so we weren’t disappointed. A great way to spend the afternoon but it was soon time to head back to Silom via tuk-tuk. A noisy, fume filled way to get across the city but great fun and you must have at least one ride if you are in Bangkok. When we lived in Bangkok we would have tuk-tuk races back to the condo with a 50 B bonus for the winning driver. These boys took such a prize seriously and one time we flew over the small bridge at the front of the condo James Bond style before crashing into the barrier! These boys were always up for fun and would even let you drive if you wanted to, not recommended! This time we got back to Silom safe and sound.

A quick shower before heading up to Sukhumvit via the sky train and a beer at happy hour in O’Reilly’s near Sala Daeng station. While we were sitting on O’Reilly’s terrace, the red shirt convey was coming back from their protest and the mood was very festive. All the people in the streets were cheering and the red shirts were waving and chanting, all very good natured. We had some fantastic grub at Suda restaurant, a local place which seems to have been found by tourists behind Asok station. Even though it was full of tourists, they make the food spicy so well worth a visit. Had to round the night off with a beer in Cheap Charlies (well ‘not as cheap as it used to be Charlies’!), a great bar in a small alley on Soi 11 which is basically a hole in the wall place. Emma suggested we call into The Pickled Liver to see an old mate from Sri Lanka, Nick. He runs this English style pub and is a good bet for a pint and watching the footy. It was good to catch up with Nick and he even forgave me for taking down one of his footy flags that are strewn all over the pub (bet you can’t guess the team) the last time we were in Bangkok to watch City play. Well, it is like a red rag (literally) to a bull! A great night and great weekend exploring a city we used to call home. The bars are temples but the pearls ain’t free..........

Murray Head in 1984, in case you are still wondering!

Steve and Emma’s Bangkok and Around Must Dos