Day 1 - Leh (3500m) – Jingchan (3380m) – Ganda La Camp (4380m)
It was early morning when we met our guide and helper, who were busy packing the jeep with all we would need for 6 days of trekking. Most people spend the first day walking along the dusty road that our jeep bumped along. Were we cheating? Certainly not! Don’t forget we were combining this valley trek with the Stok Kangri one, and most people do one or the other. To be honest we didn’t see the point of a boring trudge along a road – we’d been doing that for months around the streets of Bangsar. I’ve said road, but in reality we were on nothing more than a dirt track, and at one point we had to stop to clear a mini landslide. Despite the slow going we reached Jingchan Camp in good time our ponies were soon loaded.Once we were all assembled, loaded and ready to walk, Steve and I took stock of the group we’d formed. The guide and helper, as mentioned earlier, plus our pony man and 4 pack ponies. A much more sensible entourage than when we climbed Kilimanjaro last year. Granted we didn’t have the help of animals and no one lives on the mountain to provide basic supplies – but did the 4 of us really need a gang of 17 helpers?! Within a few steps we’d passed the entrance to Hemis National Park and we knew we were finally on our way.
At this time of year the river is flowing freely and its waters support a thin strip of greenery along its banks. The grass, bushes and trees look unreal against a rocky, sandy, scree backdrop. It’s amazing that anyone can live and survive in this harsh, barren, unforgiving landscape. As I have said, we had entered Hemis National Park but we knew it’d be highly unlikely to spot any of the bigger animals, especially the elusive and endangered snow leopard. However, within the first couple of hours we’d seen skinks, partridge and eagles. The majority of the animals are domesticated, but what the herds of sheep we passed managed to find to eat is a mystery. The breeds up here don’t look that far removed from wild sheep and to be honest they need to be in order to survive.
The walk began by following the river up the beautiful Jingchan Gorge. The path criss-crossed the river but as this part of the trek is so widely used, simple wooden bridges have been thoughtfully supplied. Once out of the gorge we steadily climbed to our first tea tent at Rumbak (3800m). Already we were in the middle of nowhere and we thoroughly enjoyed basking in the peace and quiet taking in our surroundings. The tea tents really do serve up brews, simple local food and sell a small selection of snacks and drinks. They only exist because of trekkers and are a great way for the local farmers to supplement their meagre earnings. They only get this extra income for 4 months of the year so no one is going to be able to retire soon!
Following our break we carried on up the valley to Yurutse, the smallest village possible, just one family home. Against the odds they’re surviving here by growing barley and renting out spare rooms as a homestay. Unfortunately at this point we saw a pony struggling under its load, stumble on a rock and go down. The pony men were quick to remove its load to check its leg and our guide assured us it would be fine. Using animals is always something I worry about but it was good to see them show so much care and concern towards the animal. Yes the ponies work hard, and carry quite heavy loads, but without the trekkers this ancient tradition would have disappeared from these parts.
Within half an hour we’d reached Ganda La Camp where there were only 2 other groups of trekkers and of course a tea tent. From our tent we could see the top of Stok Kangri , our final destination, and from that angle it did not look possible! Considering this is the most popular trek in the area it obviously doesn’t attract the crowds like Kili. Great that there aren’t queues for the facilities - but hang on a minute – they’re just as grim and primitive. Next shower, Leh in 10 days time!
The walk today was a steady introduction at only 4 hours and a steady ascent of 1000m. Each step took more effort than normal as we were still not 100% adjusted to the altitude. We had slight headaches but weren’t worried and reminded ourselves that we were already over 4000m. We knew this was going to be our biggest challenge to date as we were going to be at high and extreme altitude throughout the 10 days. We can do it!
Day 2
Ganda La Camp (4380m) – Skiu Camp (3400m)
via Ganda La (4850m)
The permanent facilities may not be up to much – we didn’t expect them to be – but the trekking company have provided many more comfy touches than we’re used to. Not only did we eat from a table fashioned from the packing crates, but small stools are part of the kit too. The mattresses are extra thick and so against the odds, in a tent at high altitude, in the middle of nowhere and mighty chilly, we actually got a good night’s kip. Feeling bright eyed and bushy tailed we unzipped the tent only to find it was cloudy. The good thing was it wasn’t raining and maybe climbing up to the pass in the blazing sun would have zapped our energy too much.
We were ready to go, and since the path was clear, our guide sent us on ahead and said he’d catch us up. We didn’t doubt it as we were still getting used to the conditions and the first part of the trek was up, up, up to Ganda La at a shade less than 5000m. La is pass in Ladakhi by the way. Luckily there were lots of natural breaks, as we watched the hares dashing back to their burrows and the marmots coming out to play. The marmots are wary of people, but certainly not scared, and are quite happy to have their photo taken.
As we neared the top of the ridge the sun peeped out and we were even rewarded with blue skies. Amazingly our guide had not caught us up but we decided to wait for him. Plenty of stunning views to take in and there were a few yaks loitering around. These were semi-domesticated but it was still great to see and photograph them. There were loads of stunning views and a caravan of pack ponies were ascending from the opposite direction, which had Steve clicking away! The top of the pass is marked by a stupa and of course a forest of prayer flags. Our guide had caught us up by now, but we wanted time to take it all in, so cracked open the thermos and had a well earned brew. No tea tent up here but we know how to be self-sufficient.
From the top of the pass we could see for miles, the snow-capped Zanskar Range in the distance and the Kangri range behind us. However, we knew once we set off again we would be going down and away from ‘our’ peak. We just hoped this wouldn’t turn out to be frustrating and demoralising. For now we were determined to enjoy this trek and think about the mountain later. As you can imagine, there was virtually no vegetation up there, but the rocks themselves provide beautiful vistas. We descended quite sharply for around an hour and by that point the scenery had changed again. We were back to crops and meadow flowers in another of those huge conurbations – Shingo – 3 houses! Lunch was munched sitting in a field with fabulous views looking down the valley we would be walking down that very afternoon.
Talking about valleys and meadows must have you all imagining some stereotypical Alpine scene – far from it. Gorge will help you to get a clearer picture. The sides are so sheer that no one has ever set foot on the vast majority of the terrain we were passing. We followed the river and at times were even walking through trees, it was all very pleasant. The path again crossed the river in several places but you could leap from rock to rock, dry feet, marvellous. It may have been sunny but it was still chilly. The final part of the trek was over loose rocks and it got a bit tedious constantly watching where to place your feet. However before long we heard the magic words: “Camp in 20 minutes.”
Skiu Camp is in a place that truly deserves the description of village as there were a number of houses and tea tents and even a gompa. Unfortunately not long after pitching our tent it started to rain, but we were happy to relax for a while. To be honest, I’d got a pretty bad cold by this point, and even had an uncharacteristic afternoon snooze. Once the rain eased we went for a wander around the village and popped up to the gompa. From there we should have had fine views looking down the Markha Valley but it was just too cloudy. Skiu camp was pretty busy, but most trekkers seemed to be going in the opposite direction to us. Like I said, the majority want to get back to Leh at the end, not then go on to climb a bloody big hill!
Day 3
Skiu Camp (3400m) – Markha Village (3700m)
I awoke to find I could hardly open my eyes. They were very swollen and that tends to happen when I’m having an allergic reaction – trust me to find the only biting insect in the whole of Ladakh! Poor Steve got the shock of his life on seeing my ugly mug ( Actually, I’ve got used to it over the years! – Steve.), and he was soon scrabbling around for the anti-histamines. Our spirits weren’t lifted on opening the tent flaps to find it was still grey and miserable. This is one of the driest places on the planet, it was summer but it was raining for the first time in living memory. What is it with us and bizarre weather patterns?! Waterproofs on, and off we set with heads down and me not feeling well.
After only half an hour the rain had stopped, the sun was out and we were more than happy to relegate the waterproofs, and extra layers, to the rucksack. It’s amazing what a bit of sunshine can do to lift your spirits! The first short part of the walk, to out pit stop, had led us up and slightly away from the river. The views looking both up and down the Markha Valley were fantastic, so of course Steve got that shutter furiously clicking away again. Picture perfect blue skies with white fluffy clouds made it a perfect day for trekking. This was by far the most picturesque day we’d had on the trek so far – breathtaking views with every meander of the river and regular settlements to add colour. As in Nepal, we felt like we were on a pilgrimage walk – prayer flags, stupas, gompas and mani walls line the way. The photos will bear out the truth in that statement!
The break and lunch stops couldn’t fail to be in splendid locations and our destination for the day, Markha Village, was equally lovely. This is the biggest village in the area and at 20 houses, monastery and old fort, it’s virtually a city! The camp was the best yet, with the yellows and greens of the mustard crops, contrasting wonderfully with the beiges and oranges of the valley sides, and all topped off with a deep blue sky.
It was great to be able to spread out all of our gear and get it dry. It was at this point in the trek that we decided we had to work out some way to get ourselves relatively clean. Hiding in the tent with a tin bowl of warm water was the answer – obviously only possible if it’s dry enough to leave your belongings outside the tent! We noticed other trekkers taking the river option but we knew how cold the water was. We’d had to wade through the same river just 30mins upstream and we were far too nesh for a second dip! Following the morning’s wet, chilly start we were delighted to be in t-shirt and sandals.
So, feeling refreshed and full of vigour we went to explore Markha. We had to walk up a short but very steep bank to get to the monastery, but it was well worth the effort. The monastery itself is set into a cliff face on various levels and the views from every angle were once again magnificent. We were the only trekkers who ventured beyond the campsite as everyone else seemed to be happy basking in the sun. Although we were only 300m higher than where we’d started it had been a long walk, 22kms, with every step a pleasure. Once more I’m not going to attempt to describe the walk and the scenery as I simply can’t do it justice – hope Steve’s provided you with plenty of photos!
As the sun slipped behind the valley sides it became gradually colder and layers were added at regular intervals. Luckily our team were as attentive as ever and provided us with a warming bowl of noodle soup. Our final treat for the day was a beautiful sunset looking back down the valley. Here ends a wonderful day, and as it turned out, Steve’s favourite day in the Markha Valley.
Day 4
Markha Village (3700m) – Tahungste (4150m)
The day started bright and sunny and, knowing we only had 5 hours of trekking, we basked in the sun following a chilly early morning. The trek continued where we’d left off i.e. meandering our way up the Markha Valley. You’ll not be surprised to hear that we were once more afforded stunning views at every bend. If we hadn’t stopped regularly to take photos we’d have finished the day’s walk in 3 hours! To be honest, there was no point rushing as we had all day to get to the next camp, and in all likelihood we won’t do this trek again. It’s impossible not to take loads of photos as every step is amazing.
The day’s first challenge was to cross the river again – twice! Now we knew the water was cold following yesterday’s splodge but believe me it’s even colder first thing. Fortunately we’d brought sandals, as recommended on the packing list, for these very moments. We didn’t use them yesterday so picked our way through the water cautiously and therefore slowly. None of those shenanigans today – I was going to get through and get my feet back into the sun as quickly as possible!
The path continued on to Techa – a monastery perched on top of a narrow, rocky ridge. According to our information, if we had the time and the energy we could climb up to have a look. We had both requirements in spades, but the side trip wasn’t offered and I’m not surprised. How on earth you would get up there and back down again, without spilling blood, will remain one of life’s little mysteries.
The river was a little higher than usual (remember that unseasonal rain?) and not wanting to faff about with boots, sandals and icy feet, we took the ridge route. A sudden, sharp incline fair knocks the wind out of your sails when trekking at an average of 4000m. A little further along, we reaped the rewards of our efforts on reaching the village of Umlung. Just past the village we got our first glimpse of Kang Yangste. This mountain proudly stands at 6400m but most people only go to the ridge at 6200m, as you have to be an experienced mountaineer to be able to conquer the final 200m. We contemplated this hillock as we knew the Markha Valley trek would take us to the starting point. However we suspected we’d feel disappointed that we hadn’t got to the top.
From this vantage point we could also see our lunch break stop, in the village of Hankar, but it was only 11.15am when we got there. We managed to spin the break out until 12 bells. Incredibly early lunches are one of those things we still haven’t got the hang of when trekking. We knew we had some uphill sections coming up and even though the distances weren’t huge it took a surprising amount of effort. I know I’ve already pointed that out, but remember, this was the first time we’d done an entire trek at altitude. We were plodding along and our recovery rate was fast so we were feeling confident. To be fair we were doing better than some of the young’uns on our route!
The campsite was once again wonderfully situated with the usual primitive facilities. In fact this campsite won the prize for the most minging toilet yet! There wasn’t a door, or even a piece of cloth to protect your privacy, but then it also won the ‘loo with a view’ prize! Never mind, the day was glorious, t-shirt weather would you believe. I never dreamt I’d be sunbathing in the Indian Himalayas at 4150m – there’s even photographic evidence.
So far the trek had reached and indeed surpassed our expectations. Since this is the most popular trek in Ladakh and the routes are only open for a few months of the year we’d expected to see many more people. In fact we’d expected to be asked to trek as part of a small group, but in fact most parties were very small with the odd bigger group. While trekking you rarely encounter other trekkers but it’s nice to meet up in tea tents and campsites for a chat. The scenery far outstripped all hopes and expectations. We’d seen some photos on various websites but nothing prepares you for the reality.
Yes, the steep sections were challenging, but generally the trek wasn’t any more difficult than we’d expected. By day 4 we were still feeling fit and just hoped that we still had enough energy levels for the big push to the top. No, not Stok Kangri, to get up and over the pass to get us out of Markha Valley! Our guide was great; he set a good, realistic pace and wasn’t twittering on all the time. However, his English was very good and he shared local facts and information along the way. He was also very good at telling us what we should expect for each day’s trek. We always like to be mentally prepared and have a rough idea how long each section will take.
Our helper and pony man were also excellent and worked tirelessly on our behalf. We felt very lazy crashing out on reaching camp while they got busy. They set up and dismantled camp very efficiently every time and always thought of us first. As soon as they could on reaching our destination for the day they would bring over brew and biscuits. First thing of a morning bed brew was presented through the tent flap. It was lovely to start a chilly morning with a hot drink but of course they got up each time without that luxury. Believe me; we fully appreciated all their care and effort. The food was tasty and plentiful not to mention incredibly varied. They even got me sussed and were happy to cater to my strange taste buds! How on earth they manage to pack so much stuff into the boxes is a wonder.
Steve’s highlight of the day was becoming the master melter! Our packed picnic consisted of pancakes and a bar of chocolate but we’d not eaten it all since munchies time was so early. On reaching camp we decided to have picnic, round 2, with a brew. Steve had the great idea of putting the chocolate on the pancake and leaving it out in the sun to melt. I have to admit that it worked a treat and made the pancakes taste great. However, now he thinks that he is some sort of Ray Mears survival expert! I wonder what he’ll come up with next!
Day 5
Tahungste (4150m) – Nimaling (4720m)
Once more the day dawned bright and sunny and, as luck would have, it the campsite was flooded in sunlight early doors. There was a frenzy of early morning activity throughout the campsite, even though we knew there was only 3-4 hours trekking to do. The day’s walking was short but it was going to involve an ascent of almost 600m.
Only half an hour into the trek we’d reached an obvious rest stop, and of course the views were fantastic plus a little unusual. Looking over into the next valley we could see some wonderful rock formations. They looked like ancient man had carved out enormous water vessels. Our guide was keen to press on but we managed a few delaying tactics, as we saw no point in rushing. Little did we know that within 15 mins we would reach another superb spot.
We were now at 4600m and the usual prayer flags celebrated the fact. There was also a huge pen style structure up there, where you could sit and take in the views while sheltering from the wind. From this vantage point we had full panoramic views with the crowning glory being the best view yet of Kang Yangste. Just to add to the splendour, there was a small tarn, so you could admire the mountain in reality and reflected in the water simultaneously. Awesome is a word I use rarely as I feel it’s lost its intensity due to over-use. However, I have to say that the view this time was truly awesome and there was no way we were rushing off.
We knew we’d already done the bulk of the climbing for the day, and even at a gentle stroll, were likely to be at camp well before lunch time. Sure enough we reached the day’s destination by 10.45am! I know some people find the conditions and trekking tough going but that wasn’t a long, difficult day in anybody’s book. Never mind, we were in a fine place again and found ways to fill in the day. Managed to hold out for lunch until 1pm and Steve tried his melting trick again. Unfortunately the plastic cheese slices simply refused to join in the fun!
By now we were ready to explore the area and set off up what looked like a gentle slope, to a ridge, for a better view of Kang Yangste. We only ever intended to slowly plod, as we both had slight niggling altitude headaches, and failed to see the point of wasting too much energy. The track turned out to be much steeper than it looked and the ridge appeared very illusive. Just when we thought we’d reached the ridge the track carried on – so did we, so did it, so did we ................... We admitted defeat before we accidentally ended up at Kang Yangste Base Camp! It was all well worth it as we were sat on a rock in wonderful meadow land surrounded by glorious landscapes. From this vantage point Kang Yangste did not look possible without lots of technical equipment. We just hoped that Stok Kangri wouldn’t look as impenetrable once we finally got near to it.
As we were sat basking in the sun and drinking in the views a couple of different raptors flew past. Actually they were below us as we were probably up to about 4800m. One I have successfully identified as a Lammergeier and that was on my wish list. The variety of flowers and lichens up there amazed us and they added nicely to the myriad of colour we could see all around.
We then wandered down to the far end of the campsite, which is spread out over a large area. As we were now at the end of the Markha Valley the scenery had changed a little. Gone were the impossibly steep sided mountains to more gently sloping hills. They look gentler, but as we’d just found out, they were still tough to walk up! If you remove the 4, 5 & 6000m mountains from the background it’s reminiscent of Weardale or the Peak District. Oh for goodness sake – use your imagination!
We were in a wide river valley where the Markha people bring their animals for summer grazing. We’d enjoyed watching the antics of a couple of cows earlier. One group had just got their cooking/dining tent up when a cow bowled along and promptly dismantled it! There were also huge flocks of sheep, dzo (half yak- half cow) and very friendly donkeys. On one donkey coming to see me for a scratch behind his ear I was soon surrounded and in high demand.
The evening sun dipped below the surrounding mountains very early and the temperature plummeted. In fact while we were waiting for our dinner we were huddled up in our sleeping bags. Dinner turned out to be the best yet, as it was going to be the last night we would be with our guide. Paneer and mutter curry with mushroom curry on the side – 2 of our favourites and they were very tasty. The rest of our team were to stay with us but we were due to pick up a technical guide at the end of the Markha Valley trek the following day. It was too cold to be hanging around. So, early to bed in readiness for the climb out of the valley in the morning.
Day 6
Nimaling (4720m) – Shang Sumdo (3660m)
Via Kongmaru La (5100m) & on to Stok (3690m)
We were more than happy to be up early and on our way as we knew we had a much longer day’s trekking in front of us. We hadn’t slept very well and were eager to get started on the path leading to the pass. The path started climbing a matter of meters out of the campsite. It was steep, levelled off a bit and then very steep to the top and the highest we’d been on the trek so far. Since we were feeling a bit weary we pencilled in 2 hours to get to the top of the pass. The guide let us go on ahead as he knew we weren’t inclined to rush and in fact he did catch up with us this time.
The guides put us to shame as they were just strolling up, chatting while we were concentrating on putting one foot in front of the other! Yes it was tough, but we still felt okay and reached the prayer flagged cairn in 1 hour 15 mins. We’d be happy to scale that height, in the same time, in Malaysia’s jungles with 100% oxygen! So we were feeling duly happy and proud of ourselves and the guides were all happy as they could get a signal on their phones for the first time in days. While they were busy texting we got busy with the camera. We would have had a celebratory brew but it was too chilly to hang around any longer than necessary.
Being on the top of the pass was one of the highlights of the Markha Valley trek for me. For some reason getting up there filled me with energy and I almost instantly shrugged off my headache and the cold I’d been carrying. While Steve was clicking away I was dashing around taking it all in. Now many of you would say just being at 5000m is daft enough but to be running around up there too, downright foolish! I have to say the incentive for the mad dash was my gloves mocking me from the top of my rucksack while my hands were slowly turning to ice. I felt like I’d got my second wind for Stok Kangri just in the nick of time.
Much of our jubilation dissipated on Steve pointing out the route down. The path was very steep and covered in loose scree. Despite that, I had such a spring in my step I was virtually jogging down. Soon checked my pace following a slip and slide – nothing serious but enough to make me take stock of my surroundings. Once we got down the hairiest part of the descent we stopped for a well earned snack and brew.
The steep descent continued for well over an hour but by this point we’d entered the Shang Gorge. Markha Valley is stunning in an extremely beautiful way while Shang Gorge is stunning in a very dramatic way. The rock formations were unlike anything we’d seen previously and the gorge is very narrow with sheer sides. There were times when the path was so narrow and crumbly that we felt a little apprehensive. Obviously with Steve’s mistrust of heights he found sections quite challenging. We’d mentally pencilled in downhill all the way and were most alarmed on spying an uphill section. Luckily it was only to get us over an outcrop but it left us fighting for breath and wobbly legged. Not ideal conditions for balancing on a foot wide path a long way up a vertical cliff! Being rewarded with superb views all the way, more than compensated for the dodgy path.
We continued down to the village of Chukirmo (4070m) and by now we’d successfully navigated the most difficult sections. It was time for lunch and for once that meant midday not mid-morning! We didn’t hang around for long as we still had a long walk to Shang Sumdo and our jeep. From Chukirmo the path is lined with white markers and we finally felt like we were getting nearer to civilisation. To prove the point, at Chogdo, we passed a school where a lady stopped us and asked for a donation to help support said school. Now we don’t give to random collectors in the street but this was way beyond normal circumstances. Tashi (our guide) assured us the money collected would genuinely be spent improving conditions for the local school children. Specifically, without these donations the school cannot afford to keep running through the long, harsh winter months.
Although the path had improved there were still some tricky, slippery parts to deal with but it gradually widened. How on earth the pack ponies negotiate the higher, narrower sections is amazing. Once again we had to cross the river in several places but it was a case of rock hopping and keeping feet nice and dry. Tashi was setting a cracking pace but he was halted in his tracks when we caught up with a group of pack ponies. The etiquette is to always give way to these wonderful animals so we fell in step behind them. To be honest, pony pace was perfect for us, as we were able to take in the views as opposed to constantly watching our footing. Plus the path was finally wide enough to take two abreast so it was our turn to walk and talk.
We reached Shang Sumdo in the allotted 2 hours to find our jeep and helper waiting for us. Our ponies had been relieved of their cargo and all was stored in the jeep ready for the next part of our adventure. The pony man had already set off with his charges, as they would have to spend all night walking around to the beginning of the Stok Kangri trek. A little more ‘cheating’ on our behalf as we got to go round in the jeep. Luckily there was time for a brew in the obligatory Tea Tent. This one even had TEA TENT proudly emblazoned on its parachute roof! As it was reachable by vehicle it was very well stocked and there was even a satellite dish. It appeared to be solar powered so we didn’t fancy the chances of receiving the Premier League! It was a pleasure to sit in the jeep, while moving forwards without expending any energy. At the end of such a fantastic trek it would have been a shame to finish it off trudging down a dusty road. About an hour later we were in the village of Stok and ready to embark on trek number 2.
Stok is quite a large town that spreads up the side of the valley and boasts a palace, monastery and museum. Although the town was far bigger than any other we’d visited it was still set in a wonderful mountain surround setting. There’s still the usual river running through, providing vital water for the community and they had electricity too. Not that we could take advantage of either of those basic commodities. All those wonderful campsites I’ve been telling you about and now we found ourselves pitched in a car park!
To be fair we couldn’t have been nearer the start of the Stok Kangri trek, as there was a sign saying not to go any further without a permit right by our tent. We were sharing the car park with a restaurant / shop / tea shop that had chairs with backs and arms and proper tables. It’s amazing how the simplest of things take on a whole new significance! It was also nice being in among daily life and observing simple things like bus services and curious children. In fact the Leh bus turned up not long after our arrival and Steve was taunting me with bed, hot water shower, beer .......... very naughty!
The team (bar pony man of course) popped back to Leh to stock up with supplies and bring the technical guide. We were very surprised, but pleased, to see Tashi return with them too. It was great to know our little team was going to remain intact right to the end. From our tent we could see Stok Kangri, which was good since we’d spent so many days walking away from it. It looked extremely imposing and, judging from the exhausted faces of trekkers we watched coming down, it was going to be a big challenge. Were we ready? Of course!
