This was actually our first trip to Sabah since moving to Malaysia, and in fact, it’s been exactly 5 years since we visited this state. All those years ago we visited this area, but when we stayed on the river we used Uncle Tan’s facilities. Basic would be pushing it, and the accommodation was best described as primitive if we’re being honest! However we did stay right in the jungle on the edge of the river and were rewarded with sightings of a whole host of birds and animals. We were hoping for more of the same, and this time our aim was to see orang utans and pigmy elephants in the wild.
Increased age and budget saw us pre-booking a package, that included transport from the airport and a room with walls, beds & hot water shower, as well as the all important river safaris. Sure enough we were met off the plane as planned and we reached Sukau Tomanggong Riverview Lodge in good time for lunch. We then had time to relax in the restaurant on the edge of the river and see what happened along. With being much closer to Sukau village the animal life was not as prolific as on our previous trip, but it was lovely to soak up the peace and quiet.
The clouds gathered throughout the afternoon and the sky was pretty black by the time we set off for our first river safari of the weekend. There was only one other couple staying at the lodge and the boats are very simple and small, but without a roof. We were not to be deterred and had our raincoats and waterproof bag for the camera at the ready. The boats only use the motors to get to the main area where the guides hope to find animals. Once there, the engines are switched off and the boats quietly potter along using batteries. This meant that we could drift along very close to the trees and got to see the proboscis monkeys very close up. Unfortunately the clouds were continually darkening and so we didn’t have enough light with which to get good photos. However it was great seeing so many big nosed fellas and at such close quarters. Then it started to rain and boy did we get a soaking. In the end it made sense to just head back to the lodge as we were not going to be able to see any more animals.
The next morning the river was enveloped in a moody mist but the sun was already starting to burn it off by the time we’d finished breakfast. Today we were aiming for the oxbow lake where the guides hoped we might be lucky enough to see orang utans. All along the river we kept spotting different birds including the rare Storms stork. Apparently for twitchers this is a 5 star bird and one that encourages many bird spotters to make a special trip to the area. We saw a whole flock of them and one fairly close perched in a tree. No doubt the twitchers saw none, but a whole host of orange primates! You guessed it – we were not lucky enough to see orangs in the wild. The highlight of the morning was watching a baby crocodile up close. The guide attracted it to the boat by throwing bread in to feed the fish which in turn attracted the croc. It was very cute and a joy to watch but we’re not sure about the ethics of the encounter.
By the time we were heading back to the lodge for a very late breakfast it was cracking the flags and we finally got our clothes dry. Our itinerary had said that we would have a 2.5 hour boat ride but in fact we were out for 4 hours. They certainly more than made up for the slightly shorter boat trip we’d had the evening before. It always helps when your guide is just as, if not more interested, in all the nature and wildlife that’s around. Lee was very knowledgeable and is particularly interested in birds which he will spend hours looking for and photographing. Later that evening he showed us some of his pictures and he has many that are more than good enough to go into books.
With breakfast taking place much later than expected this feed seemed to run into the lunch buffet. Other than the boat safaris there is very little else to do in the area and since we were feeling over stuffed, we went for a walk down to the village to wear off some of the food. That’s not to say the food was good, as rice twice a day and over salted, bland vegetables is not our idea of a good feed. Luckily there was a lot of tasty fresh fruit to fill up on and a constant supply of tea and coffee.
For the afternoon boat trip we went down river to an area where the elephants had last been spotted. Once again we were unlucky and so have two perfect excuses to visit Sabah again, namely, to see orang utans and elephants in the wild. There are vast areas of Sabah we haven’t explored but many of them are so difficult to get to, that the price of these trips increase substantially. However we feel we’ll just have to treat ourselves one of these days. Anyway back to this trip and once again we saw loads of proboscis monkeys at close quarters. Early evening is when they like to find a good resting place near the water for the night. When we visited this area 5 years ago we saw these rather amusing yet endearing creatures but not in such profusion. On returning to the lodge the huge resident crocodile, Frankie, who we’d been told about, was hanging around on the bank under the restaurant. Apparently he’s developed a taste for the local stray dog population!
The list of birds and animals we saw this time is much shorter than when we stayed right in the jungle last time. However, we enjoyed our time there and who can complain at seeing: Oriental pied, Black, Wrinkled and the rare Helmeted Hornbills; Stork billed, Black backed and Common Kingfishers; Blue-naped Monarch, Black and red Broadbill, Storms stork, Oriental darter, Greater egret, Brahminy kite, Crested serpent eagle and Ashy tailorbird? And; Proboscis monkey, Silver leaf monkey, Pig-tailed macaque, Long-tailed macaque, Estuarine crocodiles, Water monitor lizard, Black squirrels, tree shrew and Mangrove snakes in the space of 48 hours?
The following morning we were up early again and instead of using the taxi service straight back to the airport we asked to be dropped off at Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre. Luckily the light rain cleared up before morning feeding time so we paid the entrance fee and went to see if any orange friends were hungry. The ropes leading to the feeding platform soon started wobbling and a mother with her 6 week old baby came in for breakfast. She was particularly keen to get more than her fair share of milk and in fact didn’t eat any of the bananas. It was lovely to watch her playing with her baby – so uncannily human like. Another young orang appeared but he was reluctant to approach the feeding area. In the end the keeper went to fetch him and carried him to the platform so he could have his feed. He looked very unsure of himself and in fact followed the keeper back to the headquarters once it was time for him to leave. We can only assume that this is a newish addition to the centre and he is still learning how to be independent. It’s a shame people mistreat animals, but at least centres like Sepilok give animals a second chance. If they ever do totally readjust they are free to go and avoid humans as much as possible for the rest of their lives.
Just down the road is the Forest Discovery Centre which is a natural park that aims to educate people about the local flora and fauna. It was much more impressive than we’d expected and you could spend hours in there wandering around the clearly signed trails. There are also lots of information boards telling you about the plants you can see and birds and animals you might be lucky enough to see. The canopy walkways are good too and the most secure we’ve ever seen!
On walking down to the main road a local bus heading for Sandakan came along almost immediately. It trundled along and indeed I could have cycled the distance quicker but we got to town for only a few ringgit! The plan was to have a wander around – not that there is much there - and go for a tasty slap-up meal. We quickly moved onto a hastily formulated plan B when the roof top restaurant we’d read about didn’t open until 5pm. We had to head to the airport at 6! So we ended up in a dingy locals’ place where there was nowhere to get changed, only snacks on the menu but the beer was cheap. A few tins of Oranjeboom and some chicken satay later and it was time to head back to KL. Another great weekend exploring Malaysia’s wonderful natural environment.
Information
We stayed at the Sukau Tomanggong Riverview Lodge in Sukau which is set in a lovely spot by the river. Our guide was Lee who was excellent, spoke fantastic English and had a great knowledge and interest in the animals.
We booked the trip through North Borneo Safaris www.photosafariborneo.com
http://www.sukaulodge.com/STRL/index.html
http://www.orangutan-appeal.org.uk/
www.forest.sabah.gov.my/rdc
