I was really looking forward to a week relaxing on the rock as the locals call it. Niue a Pacific island part of New Zealand. I left Auckland airport on 11 January and arrived in Hannan airport on 10 January. I gained a whole day. I arrived in the afternoon only to be told that a category 1 cyclone hit the island at 9am with a category 2 in tow but it dissipated before we landed. As usual I decided to walk the 40 minutes to my guesthouse and as usual people find this strange. Ten minutes into my walk I was offered a ride by none other than a government minister and a cousin of the owner of my guesthouse. I met Heleni one of two sisters owning the guesthouse. She showed me around the house and informed me that I’m the only guest and therefore I have the whole house to myself. Result for $378 for a week. My first mission was to find a supermarket to buy food for the week. The ne t was to find a bike. Heleni had a bike but it was flat as a pancake so until it gets pumped, I’m walking. I visited the nearby sea track, one of about 29 sea tracks all over the island. Heleni said I couldn’t swim in yet ascthe tide is high. It was beautiful so I took so many photos. Then I walked back to the guesthouse to find an English couple looking for the owner. They thought it was me until I corrected them. They said they would wait for the owner to arrive. I went to the supermarket but saw a procession of cars blasting out loud music and beeping. It’s new year’s celebration for the island so it was perfect timing. They call it the Tekai. When the cars go past you they throw sweets at you. This meant no need to buy any at the supermarket as I collected a lot of sweets. After this I walked to another sea track which was even nicer but the waves was so strong there’s no way to swim.
I then walked 30 minutes to the supermarket. Vegetables and fruit are super expensive so they were off my shopping list. I found some snacks and drinks that were reduced to 1, 2 and 3 dollars. I bought a 4 pack meat pie priced $12 but was scanned as a bag for $5 and I wasn’t correcting the cashier. I also bought a kilo of meatballs for $17. So $32 later I walked back to my guesthouse to find the English couple still there and Heleni didn’t come back to meet them even though they said they tried calling the other sister. I guess after 3 hours of waiting they left which was fine by me as I really didn’t want to share the house with them. The rain came and I settled in for my first night on the island.
The next morning I woke up late and had a lazy morning breakfast. I headed out looking for the next sea track on my list. I headed to the southern part of the island. I could hear and see that the new year’s celebrations were starting and I was happy to be out to see it. As usual people asking me if I was OK and if I needed a ride. I came across my first sea track for the day. I was at Amanau sea track and it was a nice walkway all the way down to the sea. It was visually stunning. It was hot and I was desperate for a swim. The waves were strong but there a a shallow pool closer to the beach. Just as I was getting ready to go in for dip a huge wave came and filled the pool and the current was strong. I figured it takes 5 minutes each time a big wave hot so timed it for a quick swim before the big wave. The rocks were so sharp and pointy and I wished I had Reef shoes on. Carefully I walked on the Reef and got to the high part of the rock or so I thought. As it took ages walking down the big waves were on me faster than expected. As I stood on the rock I could see it coming. I wish at this point I walked back up but as the rock was so sharp I decided to stay on my rock hoping I was safe and secure. The first wave was a little splashy but no issues then the second one was stronger but the one right behind it was huge and it knocked me off my rock. That was it. I was in the ocean under the huge waves being dragged under. I quickly started swimming to the rock I fell off from but the waves were too strong I couldn’t hold on. I got swept under again and thus time the waves pulled me further away from the rocks and for a second I thought this was it...drowning in Niue. I assessed that if I could last the 2 minutes it took for the waves to clear and for the pool to be shallow again without being sucked into the mighty ocean, I could survive this. So I continued swimming as hard as I could to reach another rock close to me. I finally got a grip and I held on tightly and pulled myself up onto the rocks. I quickly walked precariously up the rocks with adrenaline pumping through me. I forgot I had my video on the whole time so went to the phone and thanked whomever or whatever it was that helped me survive this. It was my own stupid fault timing the waves incorrectly and it was a lesson learned. Waves are unpredictable. Once the adrenaline wore of I could feel pain in my left leg and I saw a lot of blood pouring down my leg. I had huge cuts across my thigh and shin. My foot had 3 different cuts too. I washed it all in sea water and then quickly changed, thanked the sea gods for the experience and the lesson. I walked back up to the streets in time for the start of the new year’s procession. The truck driven by the council member called to me to join the Tekai which is the Niuean name for the procession. He asked me to jump into the back of his truck with the other and of course I said yes. My leg was still bleeding and the girls in the truck asked me what happened as I jumped in. It eventually dried and scabbed up. Then I sat in the truck that drove through every town on the island which was a complete result for me. I get to see which parts of the island I want to walk to visit during the week. I didn’t have to walk the whole island or waste time in places not as pretty or interesting. I sat in the truck enjoying my time with the teenagers from New Zealand visiting their home. I had fun listening to the loud music from the other cars and meeting all the people. As we approached the last town the rain came pouring down and we were all drenched. The Tekai ended in Alofi South where it started at 5pm and I was invited to the bbq. I stayed for the bbq until 7pm and when the rain stopped I thanked Robin who invited me and walked back to my guesthouse. It was such a brilliant day in the end, even the nearly drowning part in the morning.
The next day was a Sunday and I had decided the night before to attend a church gathering as recommended by the locals and past visitors. In the morning I changed my mind and woke up at 10.30 for another lazy morning. I’m glad I skipped the church as it didn’t end till 1.30pm. I could hear everything from my guesthouse living room anyway so I didn’t miss much. I walked to my nearest sea track to watch the sunset with Lucky my dog for the week.
Sunday is a day of rest, as per island and Nuiean culture and religious traditions. That means no music, no swimming anywhere near villages and religious places. So I basically stayed in my guesthouse reading and snacking. I made sure Monday was a more productive day. I visited the tourism centre and found a place to pump up Heleni’s bike. She offered me a bike but its tyres are flat as a pancakes. So I pushed the bike to Niue Rentals and they pumped up my tyres and off I went. I headed south of the island stopping at all the sea tracks, look outs and beaches. But before that I went back to my sea track that tried to kill me. I felt a little anxious and I felt this at most of the stops because the waves were just as strong and wild at every sea track. Even the beach waves had strong currents. So I just swam on the edges of the rocks so I didn’t get carried away by the waves. At least at three stops there were swim pools made by the Reef which meant the waves didn’t get the chance to carry me away. I was actually able to swim and relax. On the way back I went to the supermarket to grab some more reduced bargains mainly more snacks. It was a good day of cycling and swimming.
Tuesday I started a little earlier and headed north of the island. My goal was to get to Tavala Archers before the tide came in. So the whole day was a race against the tide. It didn’t help that all the stops along the way were just stunning and I spent much too long at each place. The highlights of the day had to be Avaiki caves, Limu pools, Matapa chasm and of course Tavala Archers. Stunning scenery, amazing walks to get to them and beautiful warm waters to relax in. I got to Tavala Archers just in time as the tides were coming in. I was able to get down but not any closer to them because of the ocean and Reef. I’m sure braver souls have walked to the Archers but after Saturday’s debacle in the ocean definitely not me.
Wednesday became a hell of a long day of cycling. So much cycling across the island to get to the Eastern part of Niue. In the end I headed North East up to Lakepa. It didn't help me getting lost and adding more time to my journey. I was getting more tired and there wasn't much swimming going on either. The tracks to the ocean were much longer on this side of the island it was so annoying. Some tracks were 2 or 3 kms long. Cycling to the tracks was fun going downhill but getting back up pushing a bike was a killer. Togo chasm was the best of the 4 stops even though still no swimming allowed. The secret beach was great but no sea as there were huge granite stones in the way. Walking further towards the coast are pinnacles of rock sharp and pointy as far as the eye can see. The last stop was just nuts. Anapala chasm is the only small freshwater pool trapped between two giant limestone rocks. It was a long walk down very narrow walkway into darkness. I had to stop and turn the torch on my phone on in order to get further. I went all the way down and just about saw the pool from the glimmer or light coming from above. The water was flipping freezing. I took a dip in the dark. Then it was a long walk all the way up and then collect the bike and push it all the way up and then cycle the hour back to my guesthouse. I was knackered.
Thursday was supposed to be an easy relaxing day. It was until I saw my list of sea tracks and one was not ticked. Thankfully I was heading north to visit Limu pools and the royal baths again. It would add another 90 minutes of cycling to my day. To be honest it wasn't worth it especially being chased relentlessly by the dogs. They're arseholes.
It was sad that today is my last night on the island. The next morning I decided to walk to the airport. 5 minutes of walking and someone offers me a ride. That's what this island is all about. A beautiful rock with kind people and scary waves. I loved it.
