I got to Tuvalu via Fiji from Nausori Airport. I was collected by L’s Lodge staff which was nice and I got an upgrade to an ensuite room too. The first impression was how rural and poor the island looked. In Malaysian terms we would call it Kampung meaning village. Everything is walkable with one main street from north to south of the main island of Funafuti. It’s a shame but the beach I saw was littered with rubbish. The sea however looked stunning. My first day was just orienteering myself with my home for 4 nights. The supermarket, the only one on the island was abysmal. The freezers were awful and shelves barely with anything on it. It is far from my experience in Niue. It’s nothing like it. Poverty like living conditions, rubbish, infrastructure and basic amenities are all a little heartbreaking. The people are lovely and friendly. I can only compare it with Nauru which is a bigger island but similar in every other way. So I began island life exploring the southern end of Funafuti. The middle bit turns to one narrow road going all the way down. I walked past the airport, the government building and other homes and shacks along the way. The little beach I found was as expected, littered with rubbish. The sea however was stunning as what you would see on travel magazines. But look closely at the beach, it’s not for walking on bare feet or lying down to sunbathe. There is a sense of abject apathy from the islanders in a sense that they don’t want tourists to come to their island. I’m assuming the other 7 islands are not like Funafuti. I found it difficult to get off Funafuti and visit other islands. Lack of tourist infrastructure and lack of other tourists to share the cost of hiring a boat and crew. As this wasn’t going to be a swim, snorkel and beach holiday, I decided to live like an islander during my stay. I met Watson the security guard at the supermarket and he offered to take me on an island tour. It happened to be a stormy day but we went anyway. We headed north of the island in the pouring rain. The beach was the same, not as blue but just as dirty. So after seeing all of what Funafuti had to offer I headed back to my guesthouse for an afternoon nap. The islanders have their naps outside their homes in the wooden shack near the sea. Sometimes in the shack or sometimes in a hammock. Later in the evening most head to the airport runway for football, volleyball or just to hang out. Kids, adults and dogs enjoying a cool relaxing evening. This happens every evening as the airport isn’t used. Apparently it’s about to change with fences being brought in to keep people off the runway. This will be a shame because this particular tradition is synonymous to Tuvalu. There have been incidents of planes being unable to land because dogs are on the runway. The plane radios the airport to get rid of the dogs and then they land. I guess that’s what they’re trying to avoid.
This country is the least visited so the upgrading of the airport is part of that change. I’m hoping upgrading Funafuti us in the cards too. The need for a severe clean up. Using the once beautiful lagoon as the pig wasteland. There’s no room apart from the land between the runway and lagoon. Pig pens run a third of the way up and their waste goes into the lagoon. The closer you get to the lagoon the worst the smell gets. It’s not all useless as solar panels have been installed on the lagoon. What a waste. I’m sure if I had the opportunity to visit the other 7 islands my impressions would be charged. If they can’t keep where they live clean, what makes me certain the other islands aren’t just the same. The island is a third world country because of the foreign aid it receives and most amenities and services are subsidised. There is no incentive to make money, to clean up etc. I hope the situation improves after the airport upgrades but I’m not holding my breath. I was so excited and loved Niue. After this island I’m a little sad of what’s ahead of my next Pacific island adventure.
