I arrived into Darwin from Dili. Timor Leste with the usual issues with flights from that region. Delays, off loading and merging of flights to cut costs but eventually on a teeny tiny plane I headed to Australia.
Customs was super easy but finding public transportation was a little tricky. The nearest bus stop heading to Darwin city was 2 kms away. So off I trotted into to blazing hot sun and went looking for this bus stop. After 30 minutes I found it and waited for my bus. It arrived relatively in time for buses and with great surprise found it to be free. What a great start.
I got off on Mitchell St with all the bars and backpackers and after a few minutes found my hotel. I settled in for two nights and went exploring.
Darwin is hot and I arrived just before the wet season and the weather build up gets a little crazy just before the wet season. Suicide rates sky rocket as well as domestic violence. Today is 35 degrees with 80% humidity likely to rise to 90%. That means for me, it feels like I’m having a hot flash constantly. I’m dripping with sweat. I wipe it off and I’m sweating again. It is a most uncomfortable feeling. Due to the weather, air conditioning is used excessively here almost to the point of having to use a coat to enter a building as it’s so cold. It’s a ridiculous situation. I’m in my shorts and shirt outside but when I’m indoors for a few minutes, I’m freezing my arse off. Hey, this is a city where they have fans outside.
No matter, after 90 minutes looking for my street art which was amazing, I got hungry. Now I know from my last visit to Australia before covid how expensive food was. Well it certainly on another level now what with their coat of living crisis. For the last five weeks I’ve been travelling around South East Asia spending literally pennies on food. Now in Australia I’m faced with £6 bag of crisps. I’m not even going to bother eating out in cafes or bars or restaurants as it’s just too damn expensive. I’ll do my usual, buy from supermarkets. Even though prices is supermarkets have also increased, I managed to find a few bargains. So basically I won’t go hungry and more importantly won’t be bankrupted during my three months in this country.
I woke up extra bright and early the next day and the only place open was the botanical gardens so off I went. I actually walked there forgetting about the free buses. I definitely took a bus back to the city. The gardens were free and was an ok place for locals to walk their dogs, run or exercise. They didn’t have much in terms of flowers but it was pleasant way to spend the morning. After sweating a litre of fluids I got a bus back to the city, showered and had a lovely afternoon nap.
I remembered a town called Fannie Bay on my ride from the airport so decided to visit the town with the best name ever. I’m glad I did. It’s a small town but with an amazing aviation history. In 1919 Amy Johnson and team flew the longest flight from Darwin all the way to London. A feat in itself but it was done by a woman. Fannie Bay is also known for its cliffs. They’re small with a tinge of red. After this I got on the free bus back to the city. I walked to the waterfront as I thought it might be a nice place for a sunset. On my way, an old guy pulled up alongside me and gave me a bag with fried chicken and bread. I wasn’t going to say no to free food and this was fried chicken. I said thank you and ate my fried chicken while watching the sunset. I’m thinking the reason for the free food was the way I looked. I’m wearing shorts and flip flops so I looked like an Aboriginal person from behind. The sunset at the waterfront was rubbish so I headed to Bicentennial Park and enjoyed the sunset from here with my fried chicken. The next morning I was looking forward to my first tour in Australia.
I had to meet the tour truck on Mitchell St at 6.30am. I met my guide Ethan and a couple from Glasgow, two Aussie guys and a German girl who I actually liked. The rest I put in the background so they didn’t annoy me. It was my coping mechanism in social situations where I find it hard to be sociable. It was only three days and thank goodness for the Scottish couple. Our first day was to drive to Jabiru campground in Kakadu National Park. Our first stop was the tavern for coffee and snacks. Luckily for me another more upmarket tour company also stopped there and had snacks and coffee provided. They had just left so I helped myself to the leftover muffins, quiches, sausages that I fed to the dog, coffee and iced milo all for free. The others spent a fortune inside.
Our first stop was at Corroboree Billabong wetlands for a cruise to spot wildlife. Just as we set off I spotted a huge male crocodile behind our boat. Then three more saltwater and freshwater near the banks. We saw many birds, jacanas which were cute, huge darter birds swallowing fish and Jabiru storks both male and female. Then we headed to camp to settle in. I got my own tent so the tour just got better but unfortunately no electricity anywhere except the kitchen and toilets. So no fan in the tent and it was hot. Thankfully the camp has a pool so after making our beds and having lunch we all legged it to the pool to cool down for a couple of hours. The next visit was to Cahill’s Crossing famous for being treacherous to cross as you would be surrounded by crocodiles. We didn’t cross it but saw it from a viewing platform where you could see big crocodiles. A couple of 4WD trucks crossed without incident. Not even when two idiots got out when you weren’t supposed to didn’t attract any crocodiles to attack. From here we drove to the Ubrir rock art paintings. Aboriginal people and culture have been around for 65000 years. They’re the oldest living people on earth. Their art tells the story of that time, hunting, exploring and how they lived during those times. Now these are educational tools to help the new generation learn their history. Eventually the white people gave back their land and is still paying restitutionally for the many years of oppression which the people are still healing from. The drive along Kakadu National Park goes through Arnhern highway and some drives onto Arnhern Land itself. We then watched a beautiful sunset from the top of that rock. Then it was back to camp for buffalo mince pasta. Then I sweated my arse off in my tent. I had to wet my sheets to keep cool. Walking to the toilet blocks in the middle of the night trying to avoid the snakes was no mean feat even with my phone torch.
Then next morning we stopped at a local art gallery, a museum and then to another rock art place called Burrungkuy. Most places have two names, the first is the correct Aboriginal name and the second is the incorrect pronunciation by what the white man thought he heard. After the 90 minutes walk looking at rock art we headed for a much needed swim at Maguk Falls. Unfortunately it was a bit of a walk to get to it but worth it. We swam to the falls, chatting and getting to know each other. A fish even nibbled at my blister which surprised me but it’s not uncommon apparently. Then we headed back to camp for a barbecue.
After another hot but last night in camp we drove nearly three hours to Litchfield National Park. As it’s the weekend and it was only an hour away from Darwin meant our first stop at Buley Holes was full of people from Darwin. It was meant to be top and shallow pools to relax in but it was hard work once you got in trying to hold on to the rocks. It was slippery and getting out of the pools was a nightmare. Luckily my arse came in handy. Not my favourite stop at all. The next stop in Florence Falls was better but only slightly. The added jeapordy was the possibility of crocodiles, the lizards, the humongous bats and the huge flesh eating fish. It’s as if the fish knows where all your sores are and they try to eat it and when they do bite, it bloody hurts. I was happy to leave here and hoped the last stop at Wangi Falls would be better, and thankfully it was. It did rain a little but it stopped once we got into the lovely warm water. I followed one of the Aussie guys into the water not realising above me was a huge web filled with red back spiders. Only when he looked up and said oh shit look at all the spiders that I panicked just a little and doggy paddled for my life to get through the gauntlet of spiders surrounding me. It was the most stressful one minute swim of my life. After that jeopardy was over we swam over to the falls hoping no crocodiles appear apparently they were around. This is fun stuff and I loved it. I was sad that it was over but was looking forward to my next adventure.
It was my first greyhound bus journey all the way to Cairns via Tennant Creek and overnight wait in Townsville. I got on the bus in Darwin on 14 October 9.55am and was to arrive in Cairns on 16 October at 2pm. It would be my longest journey of the whole trip. The reason is I had to get to Brisbane for my Nauru trip as the last flight was at the end of October. As I had to be here I figured I’d book a PADI course while in Cairns. Hence the longest greyhound trip and luckily for me I had nobody sitting with me the entire time. When I finally arrived in Cairns I got the super cheap bus for 50 cents to the holiday park I booked for this stay. There are so many of these parks around Australia, I had to try it out. I love it! I have a tiny house although the toilets are in a shared block. I went mad food shopping and bought a lot of stuff...too much for 3 days. So I cooked up a storm.
The next morning I was picked up by Kevin Boudier my French diving instructor along with Francisca his assistant from Chile.
I've always been scared about diving but hoping to get over it. So I was nervous and excited and then worried and then completely stressed out with all the tests. I have never focused so hard before and I tell you that it's not fun. After the theory work in the morning it was in the pool all afternoon. First getting to know your equipment. Then 26 laps of the pool and then 10 minutes treading water. Then getting on your gear which is so heavy as weights are added, getting into the pool and then trying to breathe using your mouth only. Then a few more tests underwater. Take off your mask and just breathe for 3 minutes, take off your mask and put it back on underwater, then fill your mask with water and clear it underwater, take off your breathing gear and swap it for alternative breathing gear underwater, then drop to the bottom of the pool by breathing in and out, equalising as your ears are popping and follow the line to the bottom. Then trying to find your buoyancy by using your lungs where you descend and ascend just by inflating and deflating your lungs and using the BCD. Then tests for air running out where they actually turn off your tank and you have to find alternative breathing options. Omg!!!!! This is the first day motherfuckers...why are you trying to kill me? At 5.30pm I was absolutely wrecked and I wanted a little cry. This is so hard and no fun at all...I should have just gone on a snorkelling cruise.
The next morning was an even earlier pick up. I really wasn't looking forward to the second day of my training as I'm still in shock from yesterday's tests. Well it was just as bad. At least we had more personalised equipment to do our tests in. So we had to take our weights off and put it back on....underwater. Then we had to take our BCD jacket with breathing tank attached with six straps and then put it all back on in reverse again underwater. Then we had to help a buddy with cramp underwater. Then we had to be at the bottom of the pool and stay there which was hard for me as I kept floating to the top. Finally figured it out and then they say your buddy has lost his mask get him to the surface. Then I had to be the buddy in trouble. I thought that would be it but no, the instructor says stay at the bottom and then take off your mask, put it back on and get rid off the water in your mask while underwater. While doing that my mask strap snaps but I carried on with the test because I'm not a baby and I managed to clear my mask all the while holding it against my face. The instructor took me back up to the top, gave me a new mask and told me to do the test again...fucker!!!!! I did all the tests all underwater instructed by hand signals only and I didn't enjoy it one bit. When the fuck is this diving thing going to be fun? I'm not quitting you torturous, sadistic bastards. I passed my final theory exam this afternoon with 94%, the highest in my class. How did that happen? Tomorrow we do all our practical tests in the ocean, in the actual Great Barrier Reef. Omg!!!! I'm going to die!!!!!
Day 3 of my training course. Pretty excited to be going to the Great Barrier Reef on a diving ship. Still a little nervous of what's to come. We settled in, had breakfast and then sailed 2 hours to Milln Reef. We did snorkelling first so that was fun as we saw sting rays, sharks and turtles. The water was colder than I thought it would be but it's pretty cool being in the Great Barrier Reef. Then our first training dive begins. Basically do everything we learned in the pool but in the ocean this time. Suddenly shit was getting real especially when I started to hyperventilate as I was following the line down to the bottom. I freaked out and both my instructors had to calm me down even though I was desperately wishing for one of them to take me back up. I eventually stopped being a tit and we continued the training. That feeling of being closed in just overwhelmed me. I'm not sure how I carried on completing the skills test as I can't remember much after my freak out. I'm pretty sure I left my body and was happily playing with cute chubby puppies back in Timor Leste. So still not having fun but the first dive was over.
My next training dive didn't get any better. I completed all my skills test. I was exhausted. Everytime a test was over there was another one. My visibility was getting less and less as time went by, at one point being unable to read my instrument gauges. I'm still focusing so hard on breathing slowly and steadily and not thinking about drowning. The final test was rescuing your buddy who's out of air. I was the victim first and I had to force myself to remove my breathing regulator, literally taking it out of my mouth and not breathing while under the fucking ocean. Who thinks up of this shit? The worst bit is then waiting, while not breathing, for your buddy to give you his alternative regulator. That was hard and I was so scared. Then I had to be the rescuer, easier I thought but obviously not. Once I gave my alternative regulator to my buddy, my instructor tells us to wait and begins instructing the others in what seems to take forever. I look at my air gauge and I'm only at 50 bars which is the minimum you're supposed to have. I started with 230 and I'm pretty anxious anyway even at 150 bars. So I was stressing on another level and holding onto my buddy tightly but secretly wishing to pull my alternative regulator out of his mouth and swim to the top as he's breathing my fucking air. Finally my instructor comes back and signals us to rise to the top. I have never swam so fast. At this point my gauge was reading 40 bars. After dinner we have a briefing of what the next training will entail. Ffs! I'm done with this shit now. This is dumbfuckery on another level.
On the 2nd dive I was so tired but we had one more skill to complete. I couldn't get back into my gear after taking it off again underwater. As I got my tank and jacket ready to put it back on, my left flipper comes off. I couldn’t believe it and I just lay on my gear trying to float and wishing I was anywhere else but here. My instructor finds my flipper and puts it back on my feet and tells me to complete the test. I do but I hate him so much. The day ended on a high though as we witnessed the most amazing and unusual sunset on the Great Barrier Reef. The rays were shooting out and looked amazing. The stars that night were so clear and bright too. I saw the southern cross for the first time. It's on the Aussie flag. Apart from the diving it's been fabulous day.
Day 4 begins with a throbbing headache. The night before was an uncomfortable sleepless night. The cabin was hot, stuffy and claustrophobic. I didn't sleep at all thinking about the last training dive. I had so much fun watching the sharks at night while the crazy divers went night diving. At our briefing for the last training dive, If you can believe it, we have to take off our mask, again at 12 metres and put it back on. First we have to get ourselves to the bottom without a line. How? Then we have to hover and stay down there giving answers to questions using the signals and finally use a compass and swim 10 metres in that direction and back again. So I decided I was done and wouldn't do it. I can't read a compass on land not sure how he thinks I'm going to do that at 18 meters. I politely decline the last two skills test. My instructor is a lovely guy and was concerned I wasn't enjoying my training. He kept saying the hard part is over but I tell him everytime I'm diving it's constantly hard and I hate every minute of it. He seems shocked and tells me he's sorry. He says we can do the tests closer to the top but I say no thank you. Then he says he will give a private diving course with no skills at all but just to enjoy the experience and again I say no thank you. I tell him from the moment you say I'm diving I feel anxious and scared. I'll do it if you want me too but I'll hate every minute of it. He can't believe what I'm saying but says ok. Then he says all the skills I have completed counts towards my diving certification of 12 metres with a guide or buddy. I'm happy with that and surprised to have been certified at all after all the shit that happened. Hey I'm certified but I'm never ever going diving again.
As the rest of the group carried on with their training, I enjoyed my morning relieved that I never have to dive again. I happily went snorkelling and saw kuhl sting rays and blue spotted rays. I didn't have an instructor or guide, I was left to explore all by myself and I loved it. No fucker was trying to take off my mask, no bells were ringing for my attention and nobody was cutting off my air. I didn't feel claustrophobic or scared. I was free in the ocean finally having fun. It's where I belong, floating on the ocean and not below it. My group went for their last training session for their 18 metres certification and I went snorkeling with turtles. I saw more sting rays, a ton of fish and really gorgeous coral. Then I saw the guys playing with their drones while we watched the sunset. We all received our certification this evening even my ickle one of 12 metres. So everyone is happy especially me...I'm fecking ecstatic. It was an amazing day and even better night. My first time night snorkeling and it was amazeballs. Because of safety, the captain put out a line for the snorkellers to hold onto to as it was too dark to go off on our own. We were given torches and straight away a turtle swam by me for two minutes. Then as we swam along the line and we saw a shark. It was the best snorkeling experience. I loved today. Day 5 and the sunrise snorkel. It's a beautiful day. We're still in Flynn Reef. I have never seen so many different types of fish in one place. Some are so humongous and have very funny expressions. I saw Dory and Nemo and the best one I think which is the Potato Cod. So cool. Last day shenanigans. Donald Trump joined us to try to get our votes. One of the instructors, Will, it's his last day so the crew covered him with flour, mayonnaise, ketchup, bbq sauce and everything else in the kitchen cupboard. At the start of the course I was pretty much miserable but it definitely ended on a happier note. I will not miss diving or will ever want to experience it again but it has taught me some essential life saving skills and hacks for snorkeling. It has definitely made me a more confident swimmer. Thank you Kevin and Francisca for your encouragement. The Great Barrier Reef is pretty special. It's been an experience, some horrendous but mostly amazing and incredible and I wouldn't have missed it for the world.
I’m leaving Cairns now and heading to Brisbane airport using the fabulous Greyhound Australia. It’s another long journey, 1675kms. I leave at 7am on 22 Oct and arrive at the airport on 23 Oct at 6pm. I hope I make it as my flight to Nauru is at 9.15pm. I don’t normally cut it this fine but the airlines rescheduled my flight a day earlier. So long Cairns but I’ll be back in December.
Flight from Nauru was delayed so decided to cancel my hostel in Brisbane and sleep at the airport, it was a genius move. I would never have got to my hostel without an uber and it was way past check in. Saved almost $100. Brisbane airport have comfy sofas in the departures check in area and showers in arrivals. Best airport sleep yet.
