I have been to the Philippines before but only to the island of Boracay. So I really needed to go back and explore this country again. Well I had to pass a huge obstacle first. While boarding my flight to Manilla in Paris I was asked to show my etravel code. What the heck was that?
After an overnight layover and lack of sleep I was a little confused. As I looked up the gate was showing last call and I was about to be kicked off the flight because I didn't have the proper documentation. I was shaking and I couldn't believe how stupid I had been by not getting this code when I had hours wasted at the airport. Now I was scrambling on my phone trying to apply for the etravel code, which I realised now was part of the covid checks that Phillipines was still using. I was shaking even more when it wouldn't allow me to go any further with the application as I was less than 72 hours to my arrival date. I couldn't believe it, that this rookie mistake was going to cost me this trip. So I lied on the form and said I would be arriving a day later and I was able to continue with the application. I was going slow as my hands were shaking that the boarding staff took my phone and continued. I was worried she was going to notice the date and she did but I lied and said I was going to be in Jeddah overnight. She didn't check and the qr code popped up. I apologised profusely for being such an idiot and holding up the plane. I got on and was delighted to see a half empty plane and had a row of seats to myself. I sat there relieved to have gotten on the flight by the skin of my teeth and wondering and hoping the Philippino airport staff don't look closesly at my etravel pass and scan my code.
After four hours layover in Jeddah with no wifi and speaking to a fellow traveller, I felt a bit better about the qr code date. She was right and at the airport they were asking to see this on the foyer to immigration but not to scan the code. They just wanted to see that it was green and it was and off I went to immigration before anyone stopped me to look closer at my etravel pass. Immigration was uneventful and pretty quick. I then headed to arrivals to find a taxi to the hotel. I absolutely hate taxis but only use it if there is no other choice or if I arrive at night. I stupidly took the metered taxis as was advised by everybody in the world but Manilla is the most traffic congested city in the world even at night, so I ended up paying 800 pesos which is super expensive apparently. The fixed rate was 650 pesos. Gutted.
I have to admit I was a little deflated when the taxi pulled up to a masage joint in the Chinatown district. I forgot a city with an over population of people space is hard to find so my room was on the third floor of this building. They wouldn't take credit card either and insisted on cash. Luckily I changed an extra $20 at the airport for emergencies. Unfortunately it wasn't enough but she said I could pay the rest tomorrow.
I took my keys and headed for the elevator and it opened into a narrow corridor. I opened my room door to see a single bed in a windowless room. I knew I would get what I paid for as it was a cheap room. It was so hot as they hadn't turned the aircon on, I did it straight away and the noise was like a jet engine in my room. The last memory of this was in a cheap room in Thailand. I didn't have anything to worry about as the room was in an excellent location and actually fine for what it was. I had a long journey with some stresses so was clouded by that.
What can I say about Manilla. It is loud, overcrowded, polluted, dirty and noisy, basically a typical city in the South East Asian part of the world. I really didn't enjoy my stay in this city and was desperate to leave as soon as I could. I had planned to walk for miles to see the city but gave up after encountering construction work after construction work. I was walking in between traffic congested roads even on side streets. After finding a money changer I gave up and headed for Intramuros. I needed a money changer because unlike other South East Asian countries the Philippines like cash and only deals in cash. This is very inconvenient for me but needs must. As I was staying near Chinatown and Intramuros, there really wasn't any need to venture further.
I went back to my cold box room and started researching my next destination and booking everything right there. I was able to book overnight bus tickets and a guide in Banaue which is in the mountains and home to the eight wonder of the world, Batad rice terraces. After booking everything and having the rest of the trip locked down, I went off to explore Intramuros.
This part of Manilla is a fortified walled city. The buildings inside are all original but now used for whatever purposes it was needed. These were mainly governmental administration departments and even fancy restaurants and cafes. The architecture is amazing even if one of the buildings is used as a bike rental shop. Some streets are still cobbled. There are countless dogs and cats and the odd chickens running around. Even a couple of shanty town structures have appeared due to the lack of living space in Manilla. It does give colour to an otherwise boring street. Intramuros covers quite a huge area but there are tuktuks around to help especially in the heat. I love walking so I perseveered and eventually found shelter in Barbara's. No idea who she was but she owned the building and it was left exactly how it was from the 60s. I found a seat and a fan and sat in front of it until my drenched tshirt dried. It took an hour. It was a much needed rest. I then explored the building with its fine architecture and old style decor, from a buffet restaurant to a cafe, an ice cream parlour and a museum.
After a few hours of walking around the walled city I headed back to the hotel to get my bags, ready for the long walk to the overnight bus station.
It took over 40 minutes through the city and neighbourhoods but got there just before it got dark. The station is nothing but a few wooden seats, a yard for the five coaches and little ticket office. Luckily they had a tv so I managed to kill four hours by watching crap on Phillipino tv. At 10pm I boarded my half empty bus and headed for Banaue.
After nine hours, we were an hour behind schedule we reached Banaue. I was greeted by my guide Gesler whom I found on Facebook, recommended by another traveller. He charged me 1600 pesos for a day tour around Banaue, Batad and other rice terraces as well as the hike to Tappiya waterfalls. After no sleep on the overnight bus, I was taken to my hostel and had an hour to freshen up before starting the tour. He picked me up in his tuktuk which was going to be our transport for the day. Unfortunately I still had to do some hiking. I saw some amazing views of the rice terraces from some dodgy viewing platforms. Eventually we had to ditch the tuktuk and start walking. The steps were uneven, large, small, rocky, stone etc and it was so hot. The real pain was we were going down for quite a lot of time which means we have to get back up. That is my worst kind of walk. I had said I was not going to walk the seven hours and my guide changed the itinerary so that I would only walk to the rice terraces and waterfalls. Even that took 5 hours round trip. I really enjoyed the views and walking through villages and schools and meeting the local people. I didn't even mind the waterfall which was quite nice really and very refreshing after all that walking. I didn't enjoy the walk back. It was all the way up with no end in sight. I hated every minute of it and my poor guide had to listen to me bitch and moan all the way to the tuktuk. It's my fault really for not preparing, no sleep, lack of appetite and tiredness nearly caused me to fall twice. Once at the rocky waterfall and nearly into the rice fields. We eventually got back to the tuktuk and spent the next hour riding back to my hostel. I was really looking forward to my double bed. I have already allocated the next two days as rest days.
As Ichecked in I paid for a later check out. My bus wasn't leaving till 5pm so I wanted to sleep till noon and it cost 50 pesos an hour. I was disappointed when I got my room and I was given two single beds even though my booking was for double bed and I paid more for it. Plus there wasn't a fan in the room. The lady owner wasn't happy with me using her guide and not booking him through her so she was punishing me. I told her so too. She even said she gave my room away to the guy who booked via
booking.com. She even said she gave him the fan too and not to worry as it was going to be a cool night. I even said that I would make a complaint to expedia I paid extra for the double room and she didn't care. I asked her again to please have a fan and she said my room didn't get a fan. I was stunned. This is the Philippines and fans if not aircon is used everywhere. It is unheard of not to have a fan. I knew exactly what she was doing and lying about which rooms got a fan didn't work. Luckily for me, my neighbours had just checked outband they had a fan so I went to reception and asked them if I could have their fan. They immediately said yes and I didn't even ask the owner. She was fuming, the couple said to the owner yes she can have the fan so the owner reluctantly said for to move it to my room. Thank goodness for that as there was no way to sleep without a fan. Score one to me and one to the owner as I was still in the single bed. I made the complaint to expedia and will wait the outcome.
I forgot that in the countryside they have up to four hours of power cuts a day after 1pm. Again luckily for me, this happened just as it was starting to rain which then eventually cooled the room. I spent the next two days sleeping, resting my blistered feet and completely chilling out in the mountains.
I haven't had much of an appetite since I arrived in the Philippines because it has been so hot too eat.
After two days of resting I ventured into town and found a bakery and street food. I finally got a bit of an appetite back and I had a proper meal instead of just snacks. The next day I checked out at 1pm just as the power cut came on and hung out at the hostel until it was time for my bus to head to Manilla. I arrive at 4 am which means hanging out in the wooden shack until daylight before I make my way to the airport for my flight to Palawan island. But I met a lovely gentleman on the bus. He is an ultra runner and he offered to get his daughter to give me a ride to the airport. He said he lived just after the airport and they would have to go past anyway. I couldn't believe it. No hanging out on the wooden bench and then walking to the metro. We are now Facebook friends. I spent the extra few hours trying to sleep at the airport until my flight at 4pm.
I arrived in Puerta Princessa at dusk so I had to walk quickly or it will be pitch black. I didn't have to worry as the area around the airport was a hub of activity with everyone and their mothers on the streets. I felt completely safe and twenty minutes later through some narrow often muddy paths, I found my homestay. I was given a double bed room with my own bathroom. They even offered free coffee and cold water 247. For £8.50 what more could you want.
The next morning I headed off on my subterranean river cave tour. We headed to Sabang port with a couple of stops along the way for photos. The port was so busy and the coastguards were heavily armed but very friendly. We took a motor boat to the national park. We were warned about the monkeys stealing clear plastic bags thinking there was food inside and that's exactly what happened. Only this time it was someone's passport in the bag. Then began the task of the guides to try to entice the monkey up the trees to drop the passport. Thirty minutes later the passport was returned but in pieces. Well played monkey. During that time I had a front row seat on the canoe as it meandered through two kilometers of underwater tunnels.The caves were teeming with bats and you can smell them. The rule is once you enter the cave not to open your mouth. The rock formations were a bit scarier than I'm used to. It must be my imagination but I saw ghouls, ghosts and goblins even nosferatu. After our tour we had an amazing lunch of local Philippine dishes and I ate so much.
We returned to Puerta Princessa by 3pm. I had a siesta and in the evening headed towards the bay for a beautiful sunset. Then off to the night market to explore.
The next morning I was picked up by my van transfer to El Nido. After five hours and stops along the way we arrived. It was raining heavily and it took a while to find my hotel which was wrongly named but with the help of the locals I found it. It was a cheap double bed room with aircon near the beach. I didn't realise it was owned by the Eco Hotels and was part of the property. I can use their facilities even though my room only cost me £10 a night.
Even though it was raining I headed straight to the beach which was only 30 seconds walk away. The water was warm and the scenery stunning. It stopped raining soon after I got into the sea.
The next morning I headed into town for my tour. It was one of the popular tour a, b, c and d. Today I am doing tour a. We got on the boat and headed to the first island, seven commandos. It was a beautiful island and I was completely alone even though my group of thirty was with me. Next stop was twin rocks for snorkeling. Then onto Shimuzi island for more swimming and eventually lunch. This was prepared on the boat by the crew. It was delicious with seafood and barbecued chicken and pork. We were even joined by a monitor lizard.
After lunch we headed to the big lagoon. You had to pay extra 200 pesos for entry but you also have to hire a kayak. It's 300 pesos again for one kayak but same price for the guide to do all the hard work. So I picked the kayak with the guide doing all the work. The guide kayaked into the big lagoon and into the narrow inlets while I relaxed enjoying the views. To be honest it was so busy. There was kayak traffic. Then we got a chance to swim before the last island stop incorrectly named the secret lagoon. Again the whole world and their mother was here. It was a weird one. I saw many people in the water queuing. The entrance to the lagoon was a tiny hole in the cave and the guide will push you through and you come out the other end. It wasn't spectacular but an experience. Then it was time to head back. It's very tiring having all this fun.
The next morning I went for a canopy walk. El Nido is surrounded by limestone mountains and I got to walk up one of them. It was so hot and humid. I was sweating bucket loads even my legs were sweating. The views however were amazing and well worth the short walk up. The sway bridge was great too and the whole thing was very safe.
The next day I did tour b. To my disappointment I wasn't able to be with my tour a crew. As there were only two of us on tour b, jhannes tours farmed us out to another crew, a lesser crew in my opinion. We didn't leave the dock till nearly 10am. They waited to fill the boat like a damn jeepney. Plus they had some friend join them. He was annoying and threw food waste into the sea. We had less time at the stops and missed one stop altogether. But I always make the best of a situation. I met a lovely girl from Manila on her vacation. We kept each other company on this tour. I loved anatula island or as I call it dinosaur island as all the rock formations look like dinosaurs. It was amazing. I tried to enjoy the experience of being pushed through a tiny hole in the cave to enter cudogon cave. We had some snorkeling time near another island but the current was pretty strong. Lunch at snake island was great and plentiful. The island was cool too we saw star fish and I found a pair of ray ban sunnys. Good trip in the end.
I had a lazy day on check out day and got picked up by my van to drive 5 hours back to Puerta Princessa airport. My flight finally left at 11pm arriving at Cebu just after midnight. I got a taxi for 450 pesos and I had to use Google maps to show him the way to the hostel.
The hostel wasn't as I expected, nothing like in Japan. The capsules aren't as fabulous but at least it was your private space. Plus seven eleven is right next door. The ladies running the place are great. So friendly and helpful and so hardworking. They actually take turns sleeping on the floor. Why can't the owner buy two sofas or even a foldout bed?
The next morning or night, I was waiting outside the hostel for my 3:30am pick up to tour Moalboal. It was a very long journey to visit the beach as I wasn't doing the canyonering. It wasn't made clear that Moalboal is mainly for canyonering so don't bother going if you don't want to do that. It's a shame that I didn't get to see Kawasan Falls but Lambug Beach in Badian was sublime. I had the whole beach to myself apart from the dogs and one goat. I was there nearly three hours while the rest of the group was canyonering. Then I was collected for lunch and then made our way to go snorkeling for the sardine run and turtle beach. It's not like snorkeling I have ever known. The guides pull you out to sea using lifebuoys. Then the freedivers go to the bottom of the sea and disturb the sardines so they move towards you. I could see the sardines and bubbles from the divers beneath me. At some point I couldn't tell the difference. Then I saw a huge turtle to my left. He was beautiful but the snorkelers surrounding him made me anxious.There were so many around the turtle. Then the guides tell you to get ready for the photo. What they do is, tell you to count to three and hold your breath and they push you under near the turtle to get the photo moment. Truly bizarre. After everyone in the group had their turn, guide swam to me and told me to get ready. I politely declined and said seeing the turtle was fine I didn't need a photo and to let the turtle rest. No sooner had I said this, another group was in line for the turtle photos. At least the guide said not to touch the turtle. I guess this is how they earn money but the practice is very dubious indeed. Much like Oslob and the whale shark debacle, I think Moalboal and the turtle surely falls into that same category of responsible tourism. If I had known exactly what Moalboal entailed I would have known that like Oslob, it wasn't for me.
We had a long drive back to Cebu and I took a long walk back to the hostel via the night markets and lecheron eateries. The next day was my rest day which was well needed.
Then it was another early morning start to catch the ferry to Bohol. It took two hours and I met my tuktuk driver at the other end. We started off with the obligatory city tour and bumped into one of my new friend from the Moalboal tour. As we were both in tuktuks and basically ended up in the same place, a tuktuk race began.
My favourite stop on Bohol is definitely the Tarsier conservation area. These creatures are so tiny and full size Tarsier fits in the palm of your hand. They had big bulgy and googly eyes. They had creepy long thin fingers with a round top at the end of them, almost like suction cups. They also have a very long tail. They are so cute. Obviously the one I'm taking a photo of gives me the most sinister look like he wants to eat my face. I saw seven different Tarsiers 2 to 7 years old. I really want one.
The next best stop is the famous Chocolate Hills. Well I couldn't see it, the sun shone and no chocolate hills to be seen. Still a beautiful setting of many hills. The man made forest was a beautiful stop too. The whole ride in the countryside was just lovely. As I didn't take part in the python park, mirror land of famous replica sites or have lunch on the super expensive floating restaurant, the tour ended early. So I headed back to the ferry terminal for a long wait. Luckily for 50 pesos I could change my ticket to a much earlier ferry. So early in fact I had to run all the way to the ticketing agent and run all the way back to the ferry terminal to board it just in time. It was worth saving over two hours of precious time for my last night in the Philippines.
The next morning I headed to the airport in style. As Cebu has no tuktuks only buses, taxis and motorbike taxis, I booked the latter. What a fun way to end my Philippines adventure right to the end. Although after thirty minutes on the bike, I needed a minute to try and get off it. These old legs aren't what they used to.
