I have been to India many times and I still don't like it. I wonder why I keep going. It's because there are hidden gems to be found when I look closer. Varanasi is one of those gems. Millions of Hindus find their way to Varanasi to seek enlightenment, prayer or die. It is the most colourful and oldest cities in the world, and dirtiest.
The banks of the Ganges is lively, noisy and full of people bathing, offering flowers, getting blessings, being cremated and those that are poor, their bodies just pushed into the river. I didn't see any dead bodies floating around but I did see many being cremated.
I walked along the narrow ghats full of rubbish and animal and maybe even human excrement. The people didn't seem to mind tourists and there were a lot of them.
In the evening I walked back down through the ghats to the banks of the Ganges to watch the Aarti. This is when 7 young priests graduate. The evening was full of lights and colours. The priests went through many rituals and all in front of a huge crowd. It was a wonderful evening.
I will never forget the smell and noise of Varanasi.
