This summer I spent exploring in the PamirMountains in Tajikistan. I flew to Bishkek in Kyrgystan and travelled overland into Tajikistan through the Wakhan corridor until we reached Dushanbe. As usual I joined a small group when I got there. They seemed a nice bunch and they were…I know, a big surprise as there is always a weirdo in a group but not
this one. Everyone was pretty much normal. Again I really didn’t read the trip dossier and had no clue what I was going to get up to. I assumed Central Asia would be hot in the summer and it is but I completely forgot about the very cold mountains and for half the trip I basically froze my arse off. I did not bring any winter clothes or shoes. For half the trip I wore 5 t-shirts, 3 pairs of trousers and a number of socks just to keep slightly warm. Plus as we were at 5000m I had the worst headache ever...like stabbing in the eye type of headache. This altitude sickness lasted exactly 3 days when one day it was just gone. Unlike my Peru trip I didn’t lose my appetite, if anything I was hungry but I was very lethargic. Shame about the food though, it was very meaty and not really my cup of tea. We usually had meat and potatoes soup with some salad and the occasional yak which one of the girls nearly choked on.
Another thing about this trip was the toilet facility; never had I experienced gross
toilets since China…omg disgusting doesn’t even come close. In the main cities it was ok the normal squat toilets with the horrid smells but once you get into the country it’s just mind boggling. It’s always outside and away from the main home which is a good thing in hindsight. They dig a great big hole and then nail rickety old wood to it and leave a tiny little hole. Once this so call hole is filled up, they move along and dig another one and the cycle goes on. Not sure how long before their home subsides into the crappy cavern but it was definitely close in one of the home stays we were in. I decided not to use their toilet but to find a bush instead as it was much more hygienic and less chance of me falling in.
Well this trip is not all about toilets, the scenery was amazing, beautiful snow capped mountains – it was cold but an amazing sight. The trip was mainly a walking trip but it was optional so I went for walks when I felt like it which wasn’t often. I just enjoyed looking out at the views.
Some places we stayed were close to some hot springs and I had brought my swim kit so I was well up for it especially as I spent the whole time being cold. It was a chance to get my bones warm. But seeing as the Muslim country I was in was so liberal I didn’t realise that you could only enter the pools naked – absolutely butt naked, no swimsuit or even knickers and bra. I was shocked, it was on a Friday too and it was during Ramadan. I expected the women only pools but completely naked - no way. I didn’t know these people well enough to show my bits of to them so I opted out. What is this world coming too when you have to be butt naked in a Muslim country to swim in their hot springs.
We finally arrived into the WakhanValley and hoorah it was hot again. No more freezing and more chances of having shower facilities. I was so looking forward to my first shower in days but as usual it never works out the way you wanted it. Like toilets, showers were outside too. I wouldn’t have minded except that it had no doors, just 3 sides and an opening to get in and out which opened in front of some tall bushes. Not very private. I waited a while to make sure no one was around but it was a bit difficult seeing as the drivers were washing their jeeps and one of the ladies was doing the washing nearby. Plus some local kids were hanging about too. Quite a stressful shower but I was getting on with it. But you know when you know someone is watching you, I kept shouting out at them to go away because I could see 2 dark faces in the bushes…the expletives that came out of my mouth was terrible but I was so angry at the perverts. I quickly changed and threw the soap into the bushes and got a surprise when 2 black chickens ran out towards me.
I found it difficult to spend a lot of money on this trip, not many opportunities of shopping but when we did find a place I went nuts. Even when I bought like 20 lip balms and eyeliners I had only spent like $2…I couldn’t give it away. After shopping we headed towards the local museum and on my way I got my left boob fondled by a drunk, dirty old man. I saw him coming towards me sort of waving his hand and as he went past he actually honked my boob. I was kind of shocked but not surprised; I always get the weirdos no matter what country I’m in, they always seem to find me. Apparently you can adopt a babushka or male equivalent…sort of adopt a granny program. As their all old and can’t afford to live on their pensions the government or some charity thought up this scheme. And you can still participate even if you’re from overseas. So I’m off to adopt the dirty old guy.
