I started my journey to the white continent where I left my 50 states adventure in New York on 26 February. I knew it was going to be a long flight or should I say a few flights but I never imagined the stress as I was organising this trip 8 months ago.
After experiencing many delays and eventually cancellations during my 50 states trip, I figured I would be ready for any eventualities and to keep a steady head. Giving myself two full days to reach Ushuaia and to arrive a full 24 hours before the ship departure was I thought to be sensible and plenty of time.
I boarded my flight to Bogota from JFK without incident arriving in good time for the connecting flight to Santiago. I arrived with 7 hours waiting time for the second leg of the flight to Buenos Aires and then Ushuaia. I already hit a snag when I discovered in January the email from the airline notifying me of a time change. Little did I notice that the airport had changed too. This I noticed only a day before. It wasn’t too bad but it would be an added expense to pay for a shuttle between the two airports in Buenos Aires. While in Santiago I sort of figured something was up when the agent could only print my boarding pass to Buenos Aires only. As I sat down I received the email to say my flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia was cancelled. My stomach seized up and the panic swept over me. I quickly messaged my friend who was joining me who was already in Buenos Aires of the situation with the strikes and how maybe there would be no flights at all. She was at the international airport where we were to meet. This was actually such luck because obviously her flight too was cancelled and she was also with an agent and she asked for my booking confirmation. I gave her my booking number and instructions on possibly renting a car and having a roadtrip of 36 hours non stop driving all the way to Ushuaia to guarantee us to be in a chance to board our ship. As I boarded my plane I hoped for the best. I landed in the domestic airport and tried my best to find an agent for help but there was no one around except security. I had landed after midnight and the strike was in full swing. I tried to enter the departure section only to be met with more security saying no entry. The just handed me a note with the airline helpline number. My friend was able to book us both on the next available flight after the strike to arrive at 8am. She was also given hotel, food and travel vouchers from the airline. I however wasn’t as lucky so I bunked in with her and got a taxi to her alloted hotel for $10 after haggling. The airline helpline was closed obviously because of the strike and nothing could be done except have faith that the new flights would be on time and not delayed or worse, cancelled. We spent the day together pottering about and visiting La Boca and then made our way to the airport early to see what the situation was with our flights. In my head I was thinking if we drove at least we would be two thirds to Ushuaia by now. I kept fearing the worst but wishing for the best. The queues as expected was long and we joined it. My fear was the backlog of flights already delayed or cancelled the previous 24 hours affecting our flight. I need not have worried at all because on the strike of midnight, the Argentinian airlines staff got to work. There was slight chaos in the first five minutes due to the queue being in the wrong end of which counter opened but then everything ran like clockwork. In my head I was still waiting for the ball to drop and it never did. The first flight out at 2am was on time and so was the second, ours was the third flight. We were definitely feeling more relaxed after check in at the gate. We were elated as we boarded our flight which was on time. I slept for well for the first time since 26 February, it was 29 February.
We arrived in Ushuaia elated that we made it but made it in plenty of time to have some fun. We quickly got a taxi to drop of our bags and secure our seats on the first bus to the ship, Albatros. I even had time to buy my ticket to Punta Arenas for my next trip after Antarctica, to Chile. Then we had the most leisurely breakfast. We picked up extra rental gear and boarded our bus to our ship. The day got even better as the third person in our cabin upgraded and we got our cabin to ourselves without having to pay the surcharges.
The ship departed slightly later and except for two people everyone made it to the ship in time for our Antarctic adventure.
It was wonderful with afternoon tea and then buffet dinner incorporating a thorough safety briefing.
We were at sea with a couple of mandatory talks about equipment on the Antarctic to avoid spreading avian flu and talks about photography and wildlife. There was extensive talks about zodiac use and safety. I looked forward to my brand free Albatros parka. I also had free rental of the rubber boots because all our landings will be wet. We had many whale sightings. 2 Mar Day 3 There was a surprise zodiac cruise and landing at 3pm as we arrived so early and the weather was beautiful. Just before that we had many fin and humpback whale sightings as well as penguins. It was my first time on a zodiac in Antarctica and we cruised for an hour first around Aitcho Island in the South Shetland Island on the Antarctica peninsula. Then I stepped foot on the final continent at 4.20pm. We only had an hour with the Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins which was more than enough. It was an awesome feeling and experience. The penguins are so funny and so inquisitive. I could have watched them all day but it was getting cold. It was a bumpy zodiac ride to the ship and then a quick daily recap and then dinner.
It was definitely a little colder today with stronger winds. We went out on a zodiac cruise but no landings because of either ice or penguins in the way. The zodiac cruise lasted an hour before strong winds set in and I got wet. Luckily as we were the first ones out we got to see a lot before the cruises were abandoned due to bad weather. We are constantly told that weather in Antarctica can change in an instant so that afternoon it was like a summer’s day again. The sun was shining and the sky was blue. The zodiac cruise was another success with viewings of leopard seals. They are the apex predator in Antarctica eating all bird life, penguins aa well as other seals. They are beautiful with a snake like head and silvery leopard markings on its skin. They have become my favourite type of seal. After the afternoon sailing we saw some humpback whales from a distance. In the evening we were witness to an amazing sunset with colours if pinks, purples, red and orange skies. The bonus was spotting a couple of orcas in the distance. This was near Gorbin island.
It was an unexpected perfect morning for a landing on Paulet Island where Scott’s hut still remains from 1903. The island was the most smelliest I’ve smelled in a long time. I wish I skipped breakfast it was nauseating. We saw fur seals as well as the weddell seals. On the zodiac cruise we saw several seals and even a leopard seal in the water wanting to play with us. That was such a beautiful thing to see, a playful apex predator. It was my favourite morning and I made sure I took time to take it all in. We headed to Brown Bluff in the afternoon which is considered by some as the actual part of Antarctica mainland. There wasn’t going to be a landing on Brown Bluff in the end as there was just too much ice for it to be safe.
We then left to prepare and endure the 24 hour storm coming towards us as we head to a238 the largest single piece of iceberg in the world. I enjoyed my vacancy nut ice cream while watching the ship sail past the iceberg. Half an hour later, we were still sailing past it and it didn’t look like it was coming to an end.
After another day at sea we eventually reached the South Orkney islands. Thus was an unexpected visit due to the bad weather at Brown Bluff. This island only gets about 1000 visitors a year. It was an awesome morning walk seeing many elephant seals as well as Gentoo penguins. We saw a huge male but not a beach master with his harem. There was also a younger male badly injured possibly by an orca. The walk was on very loose jagged rocks. After the landing on Coronation island we had a zodiac cruise on the other side of the island on Orcadas Bay. It was a quick cruise to the Argentinian research base. It is the oldest research station in Antarctica. Then the weather turned and we had to return to the ship.
After two full days at sea I was ready to get off the ship and explore South Georgia. The island of penguins, seals and birds. Due to avian flu the usual landing sites of Salisbury bay and St Andrews Bay was off limits. Our first trip off the ship was a zodiac cruise. We couldn’t get close to the penguins at all but it was still fun watching all the wildlife in Cooper Bay. The weather was gorgeous and the animals wonderful. I just loved it. There were so many seal pups and thousands of King Penguins. The afternoon we were in gold harbour and it got colder. The sun was disappearing and the fog was settling in. We cruised around the bay, some icebergs and to the beach for some more penguin watch. It was an amazing day in South Georgia. The following day however was a wet one. I could have been in Scotland. We landed in Leith Harbour where there is a whaling station left to rot. Once owned by Germans and Scots now abandoned and full of asbestos. It was however a safe haven for hundreds if not thousands of fur seals. As there were no predators here, the pups played with abandon and were ever so curious. There was also a rare blond pup in the mix. He stood out in his golden almost polar bear colours against the black furred pups. They were so cute. The rain got worse and it felt like home. Then the ship headed to Godthul. Hopefully leaving the rain behind.
It was a beautiful sunny day in Godthul. We started seeing more King Penguin colonies along with the naughty fur seals. They are forever chasing us. It’s fun trying to get away but we’re meant to clap our hands and scare them off but I could never do that. Instead I’m instructing them like they are a child and like children sometimes they listen and sometimes they don’t.
Gritvik whaling station and museum was a gruesome part of whale history that I never want to hear about again. The men took 20 seconds to completely strip the flesh of a sperm whale. The tale was horrific and the video even more so. It’s history so we’re supposed to learn from it. Tell that to the people of Faroe Islands.
Fortuna Bay landing was in the afternoon. What an abundance of wildlife in just a small spot. King Penguins as far as the eye can see. Although you had to cross the fur seal pup patrol first which was fun. The penguins just walk along beside you. They stop to let you pass even though we are supposed to stop for them. They act just like humans. There were a few Chinstrap penguins among them looking very short and portly. If you look closely into the huge colony, you can see the fluffy brown blobs which are the king penguin chicks. A brown fluffy ball growing into a sleek and slender King Penguin. It was an awesome sight. I was also happy that we were coming back here tomorrow as the weather forecast was just as good as today. So more time watching the penguins.
We had an extra morning on Fortuna bay and music quiz which we technically won and karaoke.
Falkland Islands
From the port I walked to Cape Pembroke lighthouse. It was a quiet and peaceful walk as nobody on the ship would venture out that far. I was right and I had the whole Cape to myself except for all the glorious birds and dolphins who came for a visit. It took 2 hours there and a lot longer back as I was walking against the wind. I headed to gypsy cove but just played around in the dunes. It was about to rain heavily when a local taxi driver from Zimbabwe stopped to give me a lift back to the ship. As soon as I got in the car the hailstones came down. Perfect timing. The rest of my afternoon was spent in Stanley Town pottering about the museum and shops. I found Margaret Thatcher’s memorial and drive and then headed back to the ship.
The next day we were on the other side of the island at West Point. After a walk uphill we got to the Albatros and Rock hopper penguin colony. The scenery was stunning as it was on the edge of the cliff with high winds and blue crashing sea. The Rock hopper is now my favourite penguin. They are just so fat and round and so cute. Their yellow eyebrows just blowing in the wind while they cuddle up to each other for warmth. Robin Williams was perfect casting for the Happy Feet movie as a Rock hopper penguin.
As we left Falkland Islands to head to Ushuaia I knew in my heart that I would be back.
