ZAMBIA | Sunday, 1 Sep 2013 | Views [433]
We are more than a little frustrated by guided excursions but we have little choice. One could theoretically be attacked even on lodge grounds. Yesterday we elected a birding trip in the fishing skiff with Frazier, the staff bird nerd. By seven-thirty ... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Thursday, 29 Aug 2013 | Views [564]
“This F#%KING F#%KER is F#%KING F#%KED!” I read that years ago in a climbing magazine and it pretty well sums up today. To begin with Kafue National Park is not near Kafue. Not even in the same direction. And Winston didn’t have a clue.... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Wednesday, 28 Aug 2013 | Views [581]
We paid a little extra and were able to keep our room in Lilongwe until after dinner. We spent the day reading and changing kwacha into dollars for onward visas, a much more tedious a task than you can imagine. The Lilongwe airport was dark ... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Tuesday, 27 Aug 2013 | Photo Gallery
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MALAWI | Sunday, 25 Aug 2013 | Views [618]
The elephants arrived last night as silently as Sandburg’s fog. But we could hear their crunching and munching, their rumbling and an occasional trumpet all night long. One was so near that the moon cast her shadow on our tent. They were still ... Read more >
MALAWI | Saturday, 24 Aug 2013 | Views [592]
“They are going into the park to fish. Illegally.” Elwen, our guide and canoe poler said. I thought he would scold them, him being a guide and all, whose livelihood depends on a well-managed park. Instead he greeted them ... Read more >
MALAWI | Friday, 23 Aug 2013 | Views [495]
Bushman’s Baobab Camp is separated from Liwonde National Park by a wire fence, well trampled by elephants and hippos. It is at the other end of the spectrum from Eagles Nest. Our safari tent is dark and musty with an open air shower ... Read more >
MALAWI | Thursday, 22 Aug 2013 | Views [607]
The day begins with a murmur and the smell of woodsmoke, the noise increasing as the sun rises. Soon it’s a low roar punctuated by a whining child, a bit of laughter and the clanging of a pan. The villagers are collecting water for ... Read more >
MALAWI | Wednesday, 21 Aug 2013 | Views [635]
Our first close-up of Malawi’s top attraction was from our chalet at the Nkotakota Pottery Works and Lodge. The industrial sounding name belies the scenic tranquility. The chalets, each has a Harry Potter-y name; ours was Hedwig, are ... Read more >
MALAWI | Monday, 19 Aug 2013 | Views [681]
We had a nice birding walk with Hassan around the lake. He’s a nice guy who speaks good English and he knows his birds. We walked trails and sneaked through the bush but only one of the dozens of species we saw was new to us. ... Read more >
MALAWI | Saturday, 17 Aug 2013 | Views [1827]
We were already on the trail following Vincent, our M16 toting guide, when the blood red sun rose just after six AM. I don’t think the rifle would have stopped a charging puku antelope, let alone a hippo or elephant. It was nice to ... Read more >
MALAWI | Friday, 16 Aug 2013 | Views [623]
At first glance, getting around Malawi is a logistic nightmare. A second glance makes the first one seem optimistic, especially if you are interested in seeing the animals and birds of Malawi. Take Kasungu National Park, for example. ... Read more >
MALAWI | Wednesday, 14 Aug 2013 | Photo Gallery
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MALAWI | Wednesday, 14 Aug 2013 | Views [574]
We have never had much luck with Kenya and we were only passing through. On our first try we got lost in the midnight blackness while crossing the “no man’s” land between Ugandan and Kenyan borders and completely missed the immigration ... Read more >
SOUTH AFRICA | Sunday, 11 Aug 2013 | Views [475]
Lake Panic was a beehive of activity when we arrived this morning. Southern masked weavers and grey herons were busy nest building while the goliath heron stood sentry duty. A pied kingfisher repeatedly bashed his catch senseless on the branch ... Read more >
SOUTH AFRICA | Saturday, 10 Aug 2013 | Views [626]
The Gannet Place Guest House doesn’t live up to the standards of other places we have stayed recently. It is in Hazyview, some 40 km from the Kruger Gate and we don’t have it all to ourselves! On the plus side, it had vacancies ... Read more >
SOUTH AFRICA | Thursday, 8 Aug 2013 | Views [595]
We spent our first three days at Kruger in the southern part of the park; Berg-en-Dahl, Skakuza and Crocodile Bridge. The commute from Belvedere-on-River to the Malelane Gate entrance was a snap – only ten kilometers. It’s 70 ... Read more >
SOUTH AFRICA | Tuesday, 6 Aug 2013 | Views [609]
We have visited Kruger National Park before, of course, nine days of camping back in 2004. It’s such a special place that we wanted to see it again. After all, it is the size of Wales (or of New Jersey if that’s more meaningful) ... Read more >
SOUTH AFRICA | Sunday, 4 Aug 2013 | Photo Gallery
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SOUTH AFRICA | Sunday, 4 Aug 2013 | Views [496]
The iSimangaliso Wetlands isn't on the Garden Rute and it's one hell of a long drive from Kurger Natinal Park. We decided to include the photos of this World Heritage Site with Kruger because of the special environment and the birds and animals.... Read more >
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