Our first close-up of Malawi’s top attraction was from our chalet at the Nkotakota Pottery Works and Lodge. The industrial sounding name belies the scenic tranquility. The chalets, each has a Harry Potter-y name; ours was Hedwig, are right on the beach just behind the dunes that drift up to the doorstep. The rhythmic lapping of the waves lulled us to sleep after a long day on – and off –the road. But we are finished with four-wheel drive travel, done with the dust and beyond the bumps. We hope!
I suggested Evans stick more closely to the speed limit – he got a ticket yesterday – so it took longer than expected to reach Cape Maclear. Just watching Africa go by reminds you that you are not in Kansas anymore, Toto. We stopped to photograph a troop of evil spirits conducting some sort of ritual. We don’t know its origin but it sure scared the heck out of kids and young girls who ran screaming whenever the spirits turned their way.
Everyone is going somewhere. Some have their own transportation; wagons pulled by cattle, bikes laden with sacks of rice or meal or corded firewood. A dozen or more will crowd the bed of a tiny pick-up. Others clamber onto flatbed trailers and dump trucks. Most walk, singly, in groups and entire families – well the woman and kids – each with a bundle on their head.
Bundles on the head, baby on the back
So many of the young women have a baby slung on their backs. But hardly any women appear to be pregnant. It’s as if 2011 was the year for screwing, 2012 for birthing and 2013 for nursing. I wonder if the cycle will repeat next year.
