In 1983, with the mud-brick buildings crumbling around them, the last inhabitants of “Old Town” moved to the new Al’Ula city center. Much of the old town is still crumbling but a few of the buildings have been restored for tourists. We followed our guide through a maze of alleyways, eventually coming to a steep stairway that led us to the remains of the Nabatean fort where the views of the oasis with its date trees contrasted with the fallen roofs and crumbling walls of the town. Back at street level we were free to wander until lunch when we would gather at the Pink Camel for an over-priced lunch. While Connie and Lynn ate fruit taken from the breakfast buffet, I splurged on an $18 grilled cheese sandwich and a peach iced tea.
With time to kill before our timed visit to the Maraya Theater complex, Yannis suggested stopping at Desert X Al’Ula, an exhibition of contemporary art installations in nearby Wadi AlFann. The 50 Riyal price included golf carts to reach the more remote sites but even so we walked nearly four miles. And it was worth it! I used the Rick Steves’ method of art appreciation and just reacted to the pieces and not trying to figure out what the artist had in mind. We could hear some of the art long before we saw it, some were more meaningful than others but just the concept of making art this large in such a remote area was mind-boggling.
Maraya Theater is billed as the largest mirrored building in the world—and I can believe it. But our visit seemed mandated—Maraya was funded by the government after all and the Royal Family has a permeant box in the theater. It would be an embarrassment if no one came, much like the performers who have cancelled dates at the once-and-future Kennedy Center in Washington DC.
Some folks in the group were adamant that we stop at Elephant Rock, a formation that supposedly looks like, well . . . an elephant. We were skeptical but as it turns out Elephant Rock is a big evening attraction for Saudis. It is lighted at night with seating recessed into the ground to deflect the ever-present wind. There are numerous coffee shops, food stalls and places offering shisha water pipes to enjoy while chatting with friends. We didn’t stay long, just long enough to say that, yes, it is an elephant.
