The Saudi Arabia trip really began for me in Al’Ula, an oasis that encompasses both the old and new towns of Al’Ula, the UNESCO World Heritage site of Hegra and a few attractions we weren’t aware of. Think of it as Canyonlands NP meets Monument Valley with a little Mesa Verde thrown in for flavor. Each excursion begins and ends with the bone-jarring 20-minute bus ride from our base at Arch Mountain Camp to the main road.
Al’Ula has been settled for more than 7000 years, from the time when today’s underground water was an actual lake. Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first World Heritage site, like its more famous big sister, Petra, was an important stop on the Incense Road from Yemen to Istanbul. Hegra, like Petra, is known for its many elaborate tombs carved into the sandstone.
Our local guide, Omar, met us at the Visitor Center and shepherded us onto the smaller tourist bus to the “Parliament Building” at the end of a short, narrow canyon—a miniature version of the iconic, mile-long siq to Petra’s “Treasury.” Yannis started the day as just another tourist but quickly began filling in the gaps in Omar’s rendition. The other tombs in the area were well done with intricately carved cornices and several, like Jabal Alahmar, Al Banat and the Tomb of Lihyan son of Kuz, were named. The museum had an AI-generated likeness of Hinat, a prominent female leader who was interred in the “Women’s Rock.” As Connie and I walked around the Lonely Castle, one of the more impressive sandstone monoliths, we could see the erosion from the flash-flooding that happens with heavy desert rains. Hegra’s future may be in jeopardy.
For some reason the “Lion’s Tombs” of Dadan seem to attract more attention than the others at Hegra. Seen from a distance they are just a few holes carved into the face of the cliff. Even up-close, it takes a bit of imagination to discern the four lions carved above the openings.It is believed that the lion carvings indicated the importance of those entombed there and protected them.
It was a bit of a hike to the “Open Library,” an extensive area of rock carvings, many showing bas-relief examples of pre-Arabic writing. One of the our favorites was of a very life-like cow. Our final stop was a hands-on opportunity to make our own rock carvings but Connie, Lynn and I bowed out. It seemed kind of hokey and I, for one, have no artistic talent.
The road back to camp seemed even rougher in the dark and we ate another late dinner before climbing into a very cold bed. Thank the gods for the heater and the hot shower.
