When Henry VIII wasn’t busy tearing down churches, monasteries and abbeys or doing away with excess-to-needs wives, he indulged his paranoia by building castles. Actually more like fortresses, some 30 “castles” were constructed as part of his Device Program to thwart possible invasions by France or the Holy Roman Empire.
A cold wind was blowing off the Channel when we visited Deal Castle. Deal had the general design as Henry’s other fortresses—a central keep surrounded by six outer bastions, complete with gun ports and canon. The signage could have been better as we explored the narrow passageways and the outer bastions but the volunteers scattered around the castle were happy to answer any questions. Only a few of Deal’s 60 canons were still waiting for the invasion that never came.
In the 16th Century Deal Castle was connected by earthwork defenses to Sandown and Walmer Castles but the sea has since claimed Sandown. Walmer Castle and Gardens, while still part of English Heritage, has been the actual residence for the Lord Warden of Cinque Ports for over 300 years. We took the free guided tour with Heritage volunteer Graham who led us into the moat and through some of the inner passageways while telling us the history of Walmer. We were on our own in the residential area where photography is forbidden. The current Lord Warden doesn’t spend much time in Walmer but former Lord Warden, the Duke of Wellington stayed in Walmar each autumn. And when she became Lord Warden, Elizabeth the Queen Mother used the entire castle each summer.
