Trip: The World (Part II)
There are [389] stories from my trip: The World (Part II)
MOZAMBIQUE | Tuesday, 17 Sep 2013 | Views [512]
African lodges tend to have a ‘one size fits all’ policy when it comes to the activities they offer. Morning and evening game drives. A visit to the local village. A day hike to the waterfall. But if you want something ... Read more >
MOZAMBIQUE | Monday, 16 Sep 2013 | Views [1816]
Greg Carr is a multi-millionaire, maybe even a billionaire – we haven’t run a D&B on him. He is single-handedly funding the infrastructure development and re-stocking of Gorongosa National Park. Even the park guards stood ... Read more >
MOZAMBIQUE | Saturday, 14 Sep 2013 | Views [621]
They were grazing peacefully on the dry grass when we came upon them, a dozen female elephants and calfs. Ears flapping they immediately turned to face us, pushing the young to the center. They recognized the threat - us!
Once, before ... Read more >
MOZAMBIQUE | Thursday, 12 Sep 2013 | Views [499]
Our week at Fawlty Towers was a true "vacation from our vacation," despite our minor mishaps. We took advantage of the half-price massages, had dinner with co-owner Aston, cooked some of our own meals (a true treat) and played with the resident ... Read more >
MOZAMBIQUE | Wednesday, 11 Sep 2013 | Photo Gallery
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ZIMBABWE | Sunday, 8 Sep 2013 | Photo Gallery
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ZIMBABWE | Saturday, 7 Sep 2013 | Views [694]
Victoria Falls, “the smoke that thunders.” A mile long and as high as a football pitch. A World Heritage Site that connects the only two countries whose name begins with “Z.” And one of the Seven Wonders of the ... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Thursday, 5 Sep 2013 | Views [481]
Aston was waiting for us when we arrived at his guesthouse, Fawlty Towers. It receives high scores from Lonely Planet and we can’t fault their rating. It’s clean and pleasant, our room is new and spacious, the towels are thick ... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Tuesday, 3 Sep 2013 | Views [542]
If you really want to experience Africa just take a journey by bus – Lusaka to Livingstone, for example. Just spending some time at the terminal is an eye-opener. While we waited onboard and watched the driver spread glue on the spider ... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Sunday, 1 Sep 2013 | Views [435]
We are more than a little frustrated by guided excursions but we have little choice. One could theoretically be attacked even on lodge grounds. Yesterday we elected a birding trip in the fishing skiff with Frazier, the staff bird nerd. By seven-thirty ... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Thursday, 29 Aug 2013 | Views [566]
“This F#%KING F#%KER is F#%KING F#%KED!” I read that years ago in a climbing magazine and it pretty well sums up today. To begin with Kafue National Park is not near Kafue. Not even in the same direction. And Winston didn’t have a clue.... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Wednesday, 28 Aug 2013 | Views [583]
We paid a little extra and were able to keep our room in Lilongwe until after dinner. We spent the day reading and changing kwacha into dollars for onward visas, a much more tedious a task than you can imagine. The Lilongwe airport was dark ... Read more >
ZAMBIA | Tuesday, 27 Aug 2013 | Photo Gallery
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MALAWI | Sunday, 25 Aug 2013 | Views [621]
The elephants arrived last night as silently as Sandburg’s fog. But we could hear their crunching and munching, their rumbling and an occasional trumpet all night long. One was so near that the moon cast her shadow on our tent. They were still ... Read more >
MALAWI | Saturday, 24 Aug 2013 | Views [595]
“They are going into the park to fish. Illegally.” Elwen, our guide and canoe poler said. I thought he would scold them, him being a guide and all, whose livelihood depends on a well-managed park. Instead he greeted them ... Read more >
MALAWI | Friday, 23 Aug 2013 | Views [496]
Bushman’s Baobab Camp is separated from Liwonde National Park by a wire fence, well trampled by elephants and hippos. It is at the other end of the spectrum from Eagles Nest. Our safari tent is dark and musty with an open air shower ... Read more >
MALAWI | Thursday, 22 Aug 2013 | Views [608]
The day begins with a murmur and the smell of woodsmoke, the noise increasing as the sun rises. Soon it’s a low roar punctuated by a whining child, a bit of laughter and the clanging of a pan. The villagers are collecting water for ... Read more >
MALAWI | Wednesday, 21 Aug 2013 | Views [639]
Our first close-up of Malawi’s top attraction was from our chalet at the Nkotakota Pottery Works and Lodge. The industrial sounding name belies the scenic tranquility. The chalets, each has a Harry Potter-y name; ours was Hedwig, are ... Read more >
MALAWI | Monday, 19 Aug 2013 | Views [683]
We had a nice birding walk with Hassan around the lake. He’s a nice guy who speaks good English and he knows his birds. We walked trails and sneaked through the bush but only one of the dozens of species we saw was new to us. ... Read more >
MALAWI | Saturday, 17 Aug 2013 | Views [1828]
We were already on the trail following Vincent, our M16 toting guide, when the blood red sun rose just after six AM. I don’t think the rifle would have stopped a charging puku antelope, let alone a hippo or elephant. It was nice to ... Read more >
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