Victoria Falls, “the smoke that thunders.” A mile long and as high as a football pitch. A World Heritage Site that connects the only two countries whose name begins with “Z.” And one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World. All it needs is water!
The question always asked is “Zim or Zam?” Is it better to see Victoria Falls from the Zambian side or from Zimbabwe? Despite our distaste for Zimbabwe’s Robert Mugabe and our reluctance to share any of our money with him, Zimbabwe wins hands down. Especially during the dry season.
Of course you first have to get to Zimbabwe. That requires getting your exit stamp from Zambia, walking through “no man’s land” and across the Zambezi bridge to the Zimbabwe side, past semis loaded with copper ingots from the Zambian mines. Visas for Zim cost $30, even for a single day, US money only. Greenbacks are the official currency in Zimbabwe ever since the soaring inflation under Mugabe’s rule, when the government issued bills in one billion dollar denominations. They are so worthless you can by a handful for $1. I still have no idea how Zimbabwe gets US dollars in the first place.
Smoke that Thunders
While the falls on the Zambian side were smoldering and whimpering, they were smoking and thundering in Zimbabwe. In some places a cooling mist fell, a light shower in others and rainbows filled the gorge. Each stop along the way gave us a new perspective on the power and glory of Vic Falls. It must be spectacular in May.
We met Patrick and Corrine at one of the overlooks. He has a successful real estate business in Cape Town (It must be successful; they are staying at Royal Livingston.) and Corrine has the visage and vivacity of Audrey Hepburn, especially with her oversize sunglasses. They are a couple we hope to see again. Somewhere, sometime.
Ain't she sweet?
The bridge was a beehive of activity as we crossed back to Zambia. Bridge walkers were securely fastened for their death defying walk on the catwalk beneath the bridge. Bungee jumpers stared nervously forward, never looking down, as their harness were tightened while kayakers shot the Zambezi 100 meters below. Rubber-neckers like us took it all in while locals tried to sell their carved animals. We had to pay another $20 to re-enter Zambia but it was still less than a double-entry visa would have cost. And seeing the falls from Zimbabwe was well worth the money.
