Connie had had a list of places in Metz that she wanted to visit, most important and—as it turned out—the most impressive Metz Cathedral and Musée de la Coeur d’Or. I picked our AirBnB less on location and price but because it had a much-needed washer and dryer. We leave for London on Sunday and would like clean clothes.
Our first stop was at the Pompidou Center. Unlike its rectangular cousin in Paris, the Center in Metz is more organic. Inspired by a Chinese hat, the structure incorporates sixteen kilometers of wood. On the way back to the car we stopped for a look at the “Tremble du Ciel” or Skyquake. We’ve never experienced the phenomenon for which it’s named—or even heard of it.
We parked in an underground lot across from Gare du Metz, one of the city’s architectural icons. Built in 1908 it was supposed to infuse some German architecture into the city. Kaiser Wilhelm II even kept a residence inside the station.
It would have been a long walk just to see the Protestant Temple Neuf on the Moselle River but it was on the way to today’s goal, Musée de la Coeur d’Or. The concept of a museum built not only on but among Roman ruins was fascinating. Following directions and pointed fingers was like going on a 35-room version of Shoots and Ladders. We have seen our share of ruins in most corners of the Roman Empire but this was truly unique, especially how seamlessly the the Roman baths were incorporated into the building. Hats off to everyone involved. And it was free!
When we wandered into the Metz Cathedral we had no idea that it contains the largest expanse of stained glass in the world. Among the nearly 70,000 square feet of stained-glass we recognized several panels done by Marc Chagall.
Saturday’s drive to Paris began under clear skies but the temperature never got above freezing. The cemetery at Verdun was at odds with the idyllic scenery—a reminder of what bad politics can cause. The scenery in the afternoon may have been as good but all we could see through the fog was the white line in the road and the taillights of the car ahead. Three hours of foggy driving until we neared Paris. Luckily, the road dropped us right at the Gare du Lyon parking lot where we returned the rental. Whew!
