I had almost forgotten our 2015 “drive by” visit to Citadel in Besançon. This time we’ll stay for a few days, if only to break up the six-hour drive from Lyon to Strasbourg. Traffic and parking being what they are, we decided to walk two miles each way from our AirBnB to the historical center rather than drive.
Besançon is surrounded by a loop in the River Doubs which afforded the city natural protection since Roman times. Taking no chances, Louis XIV commissioned architect Sebastian Vauban to build a fortress to protect France’s eastern border. But the Citadel wasn’t our primary goal today. There isn’t much to see except for views of the city. In fact, part of the grounds has been converted to a “zoo-bette” with rhea, ibex and several gelada, formerly called gelada baboons, from Ethiopia
Besançon has been at the center of French watchmaking for hundreds of years, earning it the name “City of Time”. Skilled artisans have been making fine clocks and watches in Besançon since the 18th Century, the Observatory still plays a crucial role in the accurate measure of time and the Astrological Clock is a major tourist attraction. But time wasn’t on our side today. We searched the Cathedral and walked around the clock tower twice but still couldn’t find the famous Astrological Clock. Finally an attendant, babbling in French, led us from the apse down dark stairways and left us in front of an locked door. I surmised from the sign—in French of, course—that it would open at 2:00. We waited fifteen minutes, then fifteen more. A few French couples joined us and one of them figured out the key in the note—it’s closed in November and December except for Armistice Day (last week) and Christmas!
We had better luck at the Musée du Temps, the Museum of Time, located in the former Granville Palace. It’s a three-story journey in time from sundials to the atomic clock with detours to Renaissance tapestries and early 20th Century art. High on the 3rd floor is a swinging pendulum which shows the spinning of the earth. With the Doubs River supplying power, Besançon’s clock-makers created some amazing timepieces—from tiny and delicate ladies watches to the most primitive contraption we’ve ever seen.
The crown-jewel of the collection is the Leroy 01. Created by watchmaker Louis Leroy, the “01” has 975 individual parts and two dials that show 24 functions, including the time in 125 cities, seasons, the winter and summer solstice, spring and autumn equinox. It had a perpetual calendar a hygrometer, a barometer and even an altimeter. The Leroy 01 remained the world’s most complicated timepiece from 1900 until 1989. Talk about a smart watch!
For a time-out we relaxed with an exhibit of art by Marcel Prunier, an early 20th Century artist we had never heard of. Some of his work was reminiscent of Toulouse, others looked more like Vincent’s—all were interesting.
Time to head home.
