ANOTHER EARLY START TODAY, first a van to Yaviza and followed by another panga ride on the Chucunaque River to El Real and onward by truck to the Embera village of Pijibasal where our Crested Eagle trek would begin.

Our Guide descending from his house, Pijibasal Embera village
As it turns out the “Jersey Girl” had been exaggerating—or maybe the famous Jersey attitude doesn’t work in the rain forest. The two-mile hike wasn’t too difficult, especially with the walking sticks our village guide cut for us. It was wet and muddy in places and we had to ford two streams—actually one stream and one deep, muddy ditch—which we crossed by taking turns riding on the horse provided by the villagers. The humidity, on the other hand, was a killer.

Slippery going at times

Connie crossing "au cheval"

How to keep your feet dry
After an hour-and-a-half of walking with stops for water, snacks and the occasional bird, we reached the eagle’s nest . . . and it wasn’t there! The guide soon found it nearby perched on a limb and facing away from us. It took some slippery scrambling to get a decent photo but it was worth it.

End of the trail: Crested Eagle

Stopping for a photo: Red-Throated Caracara
Most of us were so muddy when we reached the stream that we passed on the horse and waded across. Even so my shoes will need a proper scrubbing later. Back in Pijibasal we learned that this is only the second time the hike to the Crested Eagle has been offered—yesterday’s was the first!.

Daily life in Darien—Pijibasal Embera village
The villagers have done a great job in supplying guides, porters, walking sticks, and the horse. We felt bad for not buying any of the handicrafts and are glad that Mike and Leslie picked up our slack. We did give the porters an extra tip for the personal attention they paid to the two of us. ¡Muchas gracias!